Barrel threading….again.

[Tod osier]

Shaen can make it work, no worries!

Can you clarify what he is doing? Thread and putting a tapered adapter or making a custom taper or something else?

 

[BBob]

Is there a general rule of thumb when it comes to bore size, thread diameter and barrel diameter? For instance, I have a 450 Bushmaster, would like to thread 5/8x24 and where I'd like to cut it the barrel OD is .720". I had a local gunsmith tell me no way and a gunsmith down in Texas that says no problem. I need to send it off to him but just haven't found the time and with not getting my cans out of jail for this hunting season, it'll likely become a spring project.

Yes, it’s a recommended minimum .100” wall thickness at muzzle. 5/8-24 will give you ~.063” (5/8-24 min dia @ thread root is .574 (.574-.450=.124/2=.063)). Minimum shoulder recommended is .050”. There are many 11/16 options being made for muzzleloaders and the various 45-70’s out there that should work for you. I wouldn’t do 5/8-24 on it especially with an 11/16 option. APA just released one of their self timing Gen III Bastard brakes in 11/16. Arrowhead, Hankins, Muzzle Brakes & More, Harrells all have 11/16” options.

 

[Adam Gibbs]

Yes, it’s a recommended minimum .100” wall thickness at muzzle. 5/8-24 will give you ~.063” (5/8-24 min dia @ thread root is .574 (.574-.450=.124/2=.063)). Minimum shoulder recommended is .050”. There are many 11/16 options being made for muzzleloaders and the various 45-70’s out there that should work for you. I wouldn’t do 5/8-24 on it especially with an 11/16 option. APA just released one of their self timing Gen III Bastard brakes in 11/16. Arrowhead, Hankins, Muzzle Brakes & More, Harrells all have 11/16” options.

Thanks for the info. I had planned on using Dead Air's Xeno mount system with the can and as of now they only make muzzle devices in 1/2" and 5/8". Maybe by next summer they will have other options

 

[Gorp2007]

I used Shaen to add 5/8 threads to a Tikka 30-06 for my dad. He cut to 20", threaded to 9/16, and semi permanently attached an adapter up to 5/8.

Worked well enough we're pulling the barrel off his 6.5 CM next weekend so we can ship it off to do the same thing.

 

[Tod osier]

I used Shaen to add 5/8 threads to a Tikka 30-06 for my dad. He cut to 20", threaded to 9/16, and semi permanently attached an adapter up to 5/8.

Worked well enough we're pulling the barrel off his 6.5 CM next weekend so we can ship it off to do the same thing.

I haven't done it, does the barrel always have to come off for threading?

 

[Gorp2007]

I haven't done it, does the barrel always have to come off for threading?

Edited because the pros provided a better answer below. No need to pull the barrel.

 

[BBob]

I haven't done it, does the barrel always have to come off for threading?

Not always. Many prefer to put the barrel through the headstock and roughly indicate. Then indicate at the muzzle and back in deeper a bit from the muzzle with a long reach indicator ignoring the runout at the action end of the barrel then thread. Another way is to use a tight fitting mandrel in the action at the headstock and place the muzzle in a steady to thread. Several ways to do it without pulling the barrel.

 

[thinhorn_AK]

I haven't done it, does the barrel always have to come off for threading?

Maybe the gunsmith will take the barrel off but you can send them the barreled actions. The guy I’m sending mine too just asked me to remove the bolt, scope rings, triggers.

 

[thinhorn_AK]

Can you clarify what he is doing? Thread and putting a tapered adapter or making a custom taper or something else?

Sending 2 barreled actions in (tikka 30-06, Kimber 308), tikka is getting cut back to 18” and hen he will somehow permanently greeted a flare/shoulder that will let me run 5/8x24 direct thread. Same thing will happen to the Kimber but I’ll probably get it cut to 17”.

Both rifles are shooting well so I don’t see any reason to spend 2-3x the $$$ and rebarrel them at the moment. If everything is good which I’d imagine it will be, I’ll be sending a ruger 77/22 to be shortened and threaded to 1/2x28 and I’ll send in a Kimber 300 win mag and have him cut it back to 22” and add the shoulder flare.

 

[Wrench]

My big lathe has a 2" spindle bore, so the actions can stay on, the heavy 10 is short enough that they can stay on longer tubes.

 

[Shooter71]

It’s nothing really complicated, just machine time and fitting, which isn’t free. you can just as easily use a store bought adapter. The reason its permanent is because the underlying threads are not standard and wouldn’t be useable.

 

[Shooter71]

Whenever possible I don’t remove barrels. Everything machined in the same setup. Another thing, factory Tikka barrels are very high quality for a hunting rifle.

 

[HandgunHTR]

Here is a video from the Ultimate Reloader YouTube channel where he threads a sporter barrel, and then installs, profiles and threads a thread protector to act as an adapter.

 

[thinhorn_AK]

It’s nothing really complicated, just machine time and fitting, which isn’t free. you can just as easily use a store bought adapter. The reason its permanent is because the underlying threads are not standard and wouldn’t be useable.

Got my barreled actions boxed up today, I got held up so didn’t get to the post office but I’ll get them out tomorrow after work.

 

[Coopsdaddy]

I used Shaen to add 5/8 threads to a Tikka 30-06 for my dad. He cut to 20", threaded to 9/16, and semi permanently attached an adapter up to 5/8.

Worked well enough we're pulling the barrel off his 6.5 CM next weekend so we can ship it off to do the same thing.

Any pics of this work gorp2007 and thinhorn-AK.

 

[Gorp2007]

Any pics of this work gorp2007 and thinhorn-AK.

Post #71 shows what Shaen did for thinhorn, or at least it looks the same to me.

No pictures of my dad’s rifle, but it just looks like a barrel with a threaded adapter at the end.

 

[B_Reynolds_AK]

I received both of my rifles back from Shooter71 (Shaen) today.
The work looks very well done and the thread protectors go on uber smooth.
When the protectors are on, you cannot even see the seam where it buts up to the shoulder.
I'm not worried about them not matching the previously Cerakoted barrels, as both will be wearing a Rugged Alaska 360 suppressor, which will work with both the 6.5 and the 338.

One rife is a Kimber Adirondack/Double Broomed Mountain Rifle in 338 Federal with a number 2 Lilja bbl. The barrel was cut down from 18" to 16" and threaded.

The other is a Barrett Fieldcraft 6.5 CM that was cut down from 21" to 18".

While these may seem a bit short, both will meet the minimum velocity needs I have at 450 yards for the 338 Fed and 650 yards for the 6.5.

 

[Sled]

Looks good. Glad shaen got you taken care of. Hopefully he starts taking more work soon. I had a barrel going his way until I couldn't get in touch with him and saw the updated website.

 

[LRI_Chad]

What are my actual choices when it comes to using silencers on my rifles. I talked to TBAC today and they said that 1/2x28 should. Ever be used for a 30 caliber rifle of any sort. I’ve been doing it with my Kimber Montana 308 with no issues (adapter).

I talked to them about their face mount but I’d be permanently attaching something to the rifles I send them and I’d lose the direct thread option on the TBAC 7 and also not be able to use anything else other than TBAC cans that have that setup….that does not appeal to me at all, furthermore I’d need to send the silencer to them (but I don’t have it yet) which would mean that I couldn’t even get this project started until I get the can.

I see I can rebarrel but that takes a long time and I have been reading lots of complaints about companies like McGowan here on rokslide.

Should I just be selling guns and buying ones that come threaded with 3/8x24 and move on from my other guns?

For a bit I was just thinking of shortening the barrels to the length I wanted and threading them 1/2x28 since they aren’t heavy barrels and using an adapter but TBAC seems to strongly advise against this, I talked to silencer central who sent me an adapter with my banish 30 and they told me that it was for AR15s but wouldn’t comment on their use for a 30 caliber hunting rifle.

I’m getting sort of frustrated with this whole situation, getting rebarreled seems like a major pain in the ass and the thought of waiting months to get something that won’t chamber a round would be total BS.

I’m honestly wondering if it’s time for me to get with the times, sell these rifles and buy something that can take a supressor with no weird shit right off the shelf. Proof elevation, Christensen ridgeline, sig cross etc etc, I mean honestly getting a Kimber re barreled with a lilja costs a lot. Preferred barrels will do the job for like ~650.00, etc.

What have you all done??? Just ran the adapter? Re barrel??? I really don’t like the idea of losing the direct thread option and I don’t want some shitty thing welded to my barrel either.

Any thoughts are appreciated.

This is an easy problem to solve.

 

[BBob]

This is an easy problem to solve.

I'm liking this one mo betta!