Barrel threading….again.

jlhois

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I threaded a .308 barrel 1/2-28 no problem. I've run a 9" long 28 ounce silencer on it without issue.
 
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thinhorn_AK

thinhorn_AK

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The veil models are heavier than the lites.

If you want to see my 3006 tikka with 1/2 threads on it, I'm sure we live not too far from each other.
Yeah I might hit you up next time I’m in town.
 
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thinhorn_AK

thinhorn_AK

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TBAC makes a good can. However, they are so far into the scared of everything side it is silly. Your barrel nor can is going to blow up using 1/2x28 threads, nor will it do so with a 1/2x28 to 5/8x24 adapter. There are rifles all over the world using just that, and I would wager I have more rounds alone doing so myself than all the “it won’t work” people combined.
I was wondering if it was more of a liability thing. Thanks for clearing that up, I guess I’ll just get them threaded to 1/2x28 and use my adapters. It hasn’t been a problem so far on my 308. I actually emailed Shaen to see what he would do, report back.
 

Sled

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What are my actual choices when it comes to using silencers on my rifles. I talked to TBAC today and they said that 1/2x28 should. Ever be used for a 30 caliber rifle of any sort. I’ve been doing it with my Kimber Montana 308 with no issues (adapter).

I talked to them about their face mount but I’d be permanently attaching something to the rifles I send them and I’d lose the direct thread option on the TBAC 7 and also not be able to use anything else other than TBAC cans that have that setup….that does not appeal to me at all, furthermore I’d need to send the silencer to them (but I don’t have it yet) which would mean that I couldn’t even get this project started until I get the can.

I see I can rebarrel but that takes a long time and I have been reading lots of complaints about companies like McGowan here on rokslide.

Should I just be selling guns and buying ones that come threaded with 3/8x24 and move on from my other guns?

For a bit I was just thinking of shortening the barrels to the length I wanted and threading them 1/2x28 since they aren’t heavy barrels and using an adapter but TBAC seems to strongly advise against this, I talked to silencer central who sent me an adapter with my banish 30 and they told me that it was for AR15s but wouldn’t comment on their use for a 30 caliber hunting rifle.

I’m getting sort of frustrated with this whole situation, getting rebarreled seems like a major pain in the ass and the thought of waiting months to get something that won’t chamber a round would be total BS.

I’m honestly wondering if it’s time for me to get with the times, sell these rifles and buy something that can take a supressor with no weird shit right off the shelf. Proof elevation, Christensen ridgeline, sig cross etc etc, I mean honestly getting a Kimber re barreled with a lilja costs a lot. Preferred barrels will do the job for like ~650.00, etc.

What have you all done??? Just ran the adapter? Re barrel??? I really don’t like the idea of losing the direct thread option and I don’t want some shitty thing welded to my barrel either.

Any thoughts are appreciated.

McGowen can do what you need with a flared shoulder but I'd suggest having the barrel threaded by a smith you trust.
 
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Sled

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I was wondering if it was more of a liability thing. Thanks for clearing that up, I guess I’ll just get them threaded to 1/2x28 and use my adapters. It hasn’t been a problem so far on my 308. I actually emailed Shaen to see what he would do, report back.

They claim it causes loss of precision after the crown stretches. Most people I've talked to say the barrel will go full round count long before that happens.
 

Zak Smith

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Hi, Zak with TBAC here.

The reason we don't recommend 1/2-28 threads for .30 cal is that it just doesn't leave much wall thickness at the thread root. It's not going to "blow up" obviously. But one good drop of the can's muzzle on a rock with the rifle behind it at an angle could easily bend/crease the muzzle threads right at the thread root. That's it. Obviously 9mm's are threaded 1/2 and they are OK, but I wouldn't want to put my Glock barrel in a vise and yank sideways on the can too hard.
 

HandgunHTR

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Here is another thing to consider when taking what TBAC has to say regarding this. They have developed and marketed the “face mount” system, so it only makes sense that they would recommend against threading 1/2-28. That way they can talk you into sending your rifle to them to do their thing to it.

Just cut your barrel off where you want to, thread it to the largest thread diameter you can (1/2, 9/16, or 5/8) and spin your can on with an adapter or different mount adapter (if your can allows them to be changed out).
 
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thinhorn_AK

thinhorn_AK

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They claim it causes loss of precision after the crown stretches. Most people I've talked to say the barrel will go full round count long before that happens.
F that. Ordering a custom barrel, waiting for it, then sending it out again to get threaded? It would likely solve any potential issues but I’d like to be shooting this thing within the next few months.
 
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thinhorn_AK

thinhorn_AK

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Hi, Zak with TBAC here.

The reason we don't recommend 1/2-28 threads for .30 cal is that it just doesn't leave much wall thickness at the thread root. It's not going to "blow up" obviously. But one good drop of the can's muzzle on a rock with the rifle behind it at an angle could easily bend/crease the muzzle threads right at the thread root. That's it. Obviously 9mm's are threaded 1/2 and they are OK, but I wouldn't want to put my Glock barrel in a vise and yank sideways on the can too hard.
Thanks Zak, I’m guessing this issue dosent pop up as much with the precision competition crowd as they probably mostly use heavier barrels rather than the lighter contour barrels some of us use to hunt with. What you are saying makes sense though I was looking at the threads in my Kimber and it is thin down at the shoulder.
 
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thinhorn_AK

thinhorn_AK

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Here is another thing to consider when taking what TBAC has to say regarding this. They have developed and marketed the “face mount” system, so it only makes sense that they would recommend against threading 1/2-28. That way they can talk you into sending your rifle to them to do their thing to it.

Just cut your barrel off where you want to, thread it to the largest thread diameter you can (1/2, 9/16, or 5/8) and spin your can on with an adapter or different mount adapter (if your can allows them to be changed out).
I completely understand that sentiment but I like to think that some companies still have integrity. Thunderbeast is sort of THE guys in the industry so while I think they want to make money (obviously, they are a business) they probably want to keep a spotless record of performance. In reality there’s a ton of competition in the supressor industry, it makes sense to me that they would be try and avoid any potential issues. I do appreciate Zak chiming in and explaining the 1/2x28 issue, I’m less worried about it now.
 

gbflyer

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I try to keep .135 minimum of barrel wall thickness at the muzzle when I thread one. A smith I respect holds to that or he won’t do it. Many ways to skin a cat.
 

Zak Smith

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I completely understand that sentiment but I like to think that some companies still have integrity. Thunderbeast is sort of THE guys in the industry so while I think they want to make money (obviously, they are a business) they probably want to keep a spotless record of performance.
Thanks for that. FWIW, we would much rather not even make, inventory, and install the face mounted brakes-- it's a big pain in the butt. Each one we do is time we could be making more cans. If we want to keep that margin of error on wall thickness for mishaps, it's the only way to do it for very skinny barrels though.
 

deerhunter628

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I ran my Q half nelson can on my kimber mountain ascent with the adapter. That worked great for me. I never had a problem.
 

AKG

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I put a witt machine custom clamp on thread adapter on a Tikka t3 in 204. It's worked well and can be removed - though I haven't removed mine. That being said I was using a 30 cal can which gave me more confidence going this route with the potential for alignment problems between bore and threads.
 
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thinhorn_AK

thinhorn_AK

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So Shaen rifles can put a permanent flare/shoulder/thread thing on a barrel making the threads 5/8x24.

At this point, this seems like the perfect option and sort of a one stop solution. I’m not sure if I’ll have him do it to both rifles or just one but I’m leaning towards getting both done this way. If it’s all good, then I suppose I’ll send him a few more to do the same on.
 

Yellowknife

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Hi, Zak with TBAC here.

The reason we don't recommend 1/2-28 threads for .30 cal is that it just doesn't leave much wall thickness at the thread root. It's not going to "blow up" obviously. But one good drop of the can's muzzle on a rock with the rifle behind it at an angle could easily bend/crease the muzzle threads right at the thread root. That's it. Obviously 9mm's are threaded 1/2 and they are OK, but I wouldn't want to put my Glock barrel in a vise and yank sideways on the can too hard.

Although this makes sense, I’d think potential weakness at root will be pretty effectively mitigated by a properly machined (3a threads) and torqued adapter. That adapter isn’t just taking up extra space. It’s actually going to be structural.


I can completely see TBAC’s reasoning though. If I was a manufacturer, I wouldn’t want a third party piece between by my gear and the barrel either. Doesn’t change the fact that it will work fine if it’s a quality unit, but maybe don’t buy something generic from eBay….?



Yk
 

AkMtnRunner

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So Shaen rifles can put a permanent flare/shoulder/thread thing on a barrel making the threads 5/8x24.

At this point, this seems like the perfect option and sort of a one stop solution. I’m not sure if I’ll have him do it to both rifles or just one but I’m leaning towards getting both done this way. If it’s all good, then I suppose I’ll send him a few more to do the same on.
I went a similar route to thread a tikka t3x sporter barrel to 5/8x24. My barrel started as a 7 rem mag but was bored out to 338 win mag. I shipped it to ADCO Firearms for them to chop, thread, and install their tapered shoulder. Total cost was about $175 with shipping from Anchorage and had it back in less than two weeks.

The tapered shoulder came loose while fiddling with it when I got it but I retightened it with some blue loctite. It's been super solid, and accuracy and repeatability has been great.

It'll be nice when sporter barrels all come with belled and threaded muzzles.
 
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