Arrow build help

[Christopher.Reed]

Glad you found the fixes and are happy with it!

Your arrow, bareshaft, will likely come off the rest spinning. If your helical doesn't match, you get a touch of a "knuckleball" effect until the vanes overpower the natural spin. Makes a difference? HS cameras shows it, but downrange most don't seem to feel it's a big deal. Personally, I'll be matching my spin so it's not fighting at all.

2nd and 3rd won't affect your arrow flight on a flat range (assuming no holding-over/off) so the extra steering from the TACs is "fixing" the paradox and form errors as it flies down range. Question is: where do your bareshafts land? Get those to hit close to your fletched arrows by fixing the bow-tune, and Blazers will work fine. (IMO, TACs are better and quieter anyways, but having the more steering out back may be masking other issues underneath.) The slightly "on the softer side" spine will be a little more forgiving, too.

Static spine is measured by hanging a weight off the middle, and using a 28" shaft. I would not expect much effect at all with the HIT, but I've never tested it. I'm sure it makes the shaft "virtually shorter" as the HIT is stiffening up and supporting the shaft a little, but probably not much more than a regular insert. I haven't used a HIT in a very, very, long time, sorry. If you're feeling academic, test it and let us know.

FOC is nice. But overrated these days because to get there you do have to sacrifice. TANSTAAFL.

Your arrow, at 18% with that weight and FPS, is pretty killer for hunting most/all of NA. However, that 18% and weight is going to hurt your max range because your sight housing is likely to run out of travel. (Not including sliders/dialers.) Why? Because the tip goes up, and the tip goes down. The arc is slightly more "triangular" than an arrow with less FOC ... and the more balanced FOC tends to fly a bit farther naturally. FOC does help stability though. (Think, playing darts in the bar.)

Also, as you weight up to focus on FOC, you get heavier, and that make quick range estimations more critical - a little misjudgment has more repercussions vertically. If you have a rangefinder, time, are not hunting in heavy overhanging brush, and don't need to shoot super far, all is good.

Where you're at on speed is really good and you won't have issues, but don't beat yourself up (seriously) about wanting "more FOC." You're good. Go shoot.

Cheers,
-mox

Thank you so much for indulging my curiosity.

I wish I had known about the arrow clocking piece and that most bows clock left before I bought my RH broadheads but the nice thing about there being a plethora of YouTube experts without a consensus opinion is that you can find someone to support your perspective. While intuitively I think everyone knows that an arrow should spin the direction it clocks off the bow, I take some fake solace in the belief that I won’t spin my field points off .

Regarding form; I think my form is pretty good for where I am at in the process in much the same way that Daniel knew karate from reading about it in magazines (obscure “Karate Kid” reference). I hope to get some actual coaching after this season but for now I am happy to mask any flaws with vanes if it means a full freezer and no wounded deer. I will also be tinkering with vanes more this spring.

If I knew of a way to test spines aside from some pricey equipment I would love to test out the impact of HIT’s on arrow spine. My wife already wishes that I had picked a less expensive addiction like hookers and blow.


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[moxford]

I ran left-clock/hard-right-helical for a bit. Points still come lose.

 

[Christopher.Reed]

I ran left-clock/hard-right-helical for a bit. Points still come lose.

Hahaha, I’m sure I will eventually have the same experience. Through 100ish shots I haven’t had to tighten the field point once while I had to tighten my gold tips every 2nd or 3rd shot.

That could of course also be explained with higher quality components and/or the depth of shaft penetration of the Snyder core system .


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[moxford]

Could be a quality issue for sure - sloppy threads on the cheap field points I was using at the time would respond more to vibration.

Let me know how those Sirius shafts hold up - I haven't use them so I looked them up and while I love the GPI for spine ratio ... man those are some thin walls. If they hold up well for you, maybe I'll buy a set myself and see how I life 'em.

 

[Christopher.Reed]

Quick update:

I finally got all of the arrows built and bare shaft tuned today. Since Sirius was OOS on 250 spine Orion’s I opted for Victory VAP elites w/ 250 spine as my local shop had them in stock.

Not quite as impressed with the VAPs as I was the Orions but that’s simply subjective as the measurables were fantastic. Of the 12 shafts, 11 out of 12 spun like glass and if you throw out the one wonky arrow (which was also off on weight) the variance in weight was .6 grains (302.4-303).

The illuminated G Nocks also impressed me with a variance of .5 grains in the 6 I purchased (14.6-15.2). They turn on when released from the string and are very simple to turn off requiring no tools.

I tried to match variance in component weight (very minor) to make sure the arrows were identical but there was a variance in final weight of .6 grains (562.8-563.4). I can only attribute that variance to the amount of hot melt and glue I applied so much like archery, user error is a part of the equation. Even with the small variance all 6 arrows spun like glass.

NOTE: I used hot melt as I couldn’t figure out a better way to insure my broadheads indexed properly with epoxy and the Snyder core system. If anyone has any advice on how to properly index a broadhead with epoxy please let me know.

After sending a few groups down range at 20 yards, I felt confident enough in the adhesion of all the components to bare shaft tune. I walked the bare shaft to within half an inch and thought that was good.

I then did a final flight with one bare shaft and four fletched arrows in an effort to eliminate the potential for human error. The four fletched arrows were touching and in fact were so close that it shattered one of my new illuminated nocks with the bare shaft almost touching.

Note to self: while it’s good to practice a few shots with illuminated nocks to insure accuracy, don’t send groups with them as it can add unnecessary expense to an already expensive endeavor

Next step is to get the scope properly sighted with sight tape.


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[stephen_seeks]

This is an awesome thread. Thanks for including us on your journey!

 

[Tracker15]

I see you’re running the snyder core. I am too and shot 5 deer with them last yr. No issue at all. Really love them.


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[Christopher.Reed]

I see you’re running the snyder core. I am too and shot 5 deer with them last yr. No issue at all. Really love them.


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Did you have any issues with adhesion? Of the six I epoxied in, only one is still epoxied with the other five now being hot melted.

I love the components and will use them on this seasons arrows as well, I will just skip the epoxy step and go straight to hot melt.

Also, regarding the Glory Nock illuminated nocks; while they are convenient, they are very fragile. I was only able to harvest one buck last season and the glory nock shattered on impact.


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[Mossy_Back]

Looks good. No need for 4 fletch if you use a decent sized vane. Blazers, Max Stealth, Max Hunter, Rapt-X etc