Jhconnected
Lil-Rokslider
- Joined
- Jul 5, 2020
- Messages
- 126
What would the damage be?
Also 5/8 thread is preferred
Also 5/8 thread is preferred
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That's understandable, and if so I'll buy the regular lite model and drop it off at my gunsmith. The blued lite 16" models on eurooptic have a $200 difference between threaded and unthreaded.I believe when I talked to Jake, he said he could get these done but that essentially the special order costs would be very high (i.e., costlier than buying a normal Tikka 223 and paying for the cut/thread).
Yes, in addition to 223, if Tikka offered stainless 16" or 18" threaded 5/8-24 chambered in .243, 6CM, 6GT, or 6ARC they would really be on to something!.243 and I’d order today. Pesky caliber requirements.
It was 9 months and $1100 to get the left-hand 223 as a custom SKU. That was worth it because the action is special.
For a right hand, assuming the price for a custom SKU will be similar, why not get a 20" 1:8 for $850 and cut it for $150, which might take 1 month to put together?
I just assembled a 16" 223 from a cut factory barrel and I really like it. I've had the barrel sitting in the safe for months. I've been dragging my feet because I didn't want to lose the velocity but I'm over it and enjoying the form factor with an OTB suppressor.
I had a 22-250 for a barrel worth in 24-25' and what I saw in factory selections was 50gr and 55gr stuff.Why not 22 250? More velocity, better factory selection of ammunition. Wyoming requires 60 grain soft lead bullets for shooting antelope, deer, mountain lions with 22 cal. Ive never found that commercially available in 223.
Why not 22 250? More velocity, better factory selection of ammunition. Wyoming requires 60 grain soft lead bullets for shooting antelope, deer, mountain lions with 22 cal. Ive never found that commercially available in 223.
Why not just buy the 5/8 threaded blue version.I suspect most will be training guns.Just paint,cerakote or nitride it.
You kinda lost me on the idea of a lightened short barrel 223 for a target gun.These are trainers for many of us. It would only take me a couple of months to shoot out a .22-250 if I shot it like I do my .223. Additionally, Not every state has restrictions like Wyoming. Many states allow .223 for big game (although not my home state, Virginia, which completely prohibits .224 for deer).
If you have not done so, you might want to check out the .223 successor thread and read up on our lord and savior, the 77-grain TMK.
I already have a Tikka stainless steel, factory-threaded 5/8-24, 1:8” twist, 22” barrel .22-250.
You kinda lost me on the idea of a lightened short barrel 223 for a target gun.
All my supressors are 5/8. Even though I have a few rifles threaded 1/2 and I use adapters on them, I have no interest using adapters moving forward.Why no interest if 1/2-28 ?
Do you like this rifle the way its set up now, other than the twist rate? If so, why not just ditch the dumb 10"twist and screw on a 7 twist ss prefit?It’s a trainer. Not a “target gun.” It’s for shooting from field positions from 100-600 yards. It’s short because it doesn’t give up much of anything by being short and it’s not stupidly long when you put on a suppressor. And it just plain works.
This is the one I currently use (Tikka T3, cut down to 16.5”, threaded 1/2-28, 1-10” twist). The suppressor is a 7.62 AB Raptor 10 with 5” reflex.![]()
Due to the twist rate, it won’t stabilize the longer, heavier bullets. It gets 3150 FPS with Frontier 62-grain 5.56, 2981 with ADI 55-grain, and 2750 with ADI 69-grain .223. The trajectory for the latter ammunition closely approximates a 6.5 CM hunting rifle and works well with Quick Drop.![]()
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Tikka model JRTXE31216MT has all the right specs, we just need it in stainless: https://www.eurooptic.com/tikka-t3x...Z78lrCwJzWOka9lIVhSKeCS-lVjjEsrtcbw_N59oG_GE0

Do you like this rifle the way its set up now, other than the twist rate? If so, why not just ditch the dumb 10"twist and screw on a 7 twist ss prefit?
I went back to check on the messages to Brad. He said it would likely be quite costly and he would have to get a commitment of at least 100.I’ll let Jake weigh in on that. Obviously, that’s probably an important consideration for everyone.
That looks like a nice setup! It's unfortunate that it rusts so easily. If I ended up with a chrome moly blued Tikka I'd probably try sending the action and barrel out for nitride.I bought this rifle last year for almost 100$ less than the link above. It rusts up just from grabbing the barrel and leaving fingerprints on it if you don't wipe it down. Not that big of deal really but it's the bore that matters and ill take ss over chrome moly any day of the week.