Are you interested in a Tikka T3X in .223 with a stainless steel, 16" factory-threaded, 1:8" twist barrel?

Interested in T3X .223 stainless, 16" factory-threaded, 1:8" twist barrel?


  • Total voters
    105
I believe when I talked to Jake, he said he could get these done but that essentially the special order costs would be very high (i.e., costlier than buying a normal Tikka 223 and paying for the cut/thread).
That's understandable, and if so I'll buy the regular lite model and drop it off at my gunsmith. The blued lite 16" models on eurooptic have a $200 difference between threaded and unthreaded.

.243 and I’d order today. Pesky caliber requirements.
Yes, in addition to 223, if Tikka offered stainless 16" or 18" threaded 5/8-24 chambered in .243, 6CM, 6GT, or 6ARC they would really be on to something!
 
It was 9 months and $1100 to get the left-hand 223 as a custom SKU. That was worth it because the action is special.

For a right hand, assuming the price for a custom SKU will be similar, why not get a 20" 1:8 for $850 and cut it for $150, which might take 1 month to put together?

I just assembled a 16" 223 from a cut factory barrel and I really like it. I've had the barrel sitting in the safe for months. I've been dragging my feet because I didn't want to lose the velocity but I'm over it and enjoying the form factor with an OTB suppressor.
 
Why not 22 250? More velocity, better factory selection of ammunition. Wyoming requires 60 grain soft lead bullets for shooting antelope, deer, mountain lions with 22 cal. Ive never found that commercially available in 223.
 
It was 9 months and $1100 to get the left-hand 223 as a custom SKU. That was worth it because the action is special.

For a right hand, assuming the price for a custom SKU will be similar, why not get a 20" 1:8 for $850 and cut it for $150, which might take 1 month to put together?

I just assembled a 16" 223 from a cut factory barrel and I really like it. I've had the barrel sitting in the safe for months. I've been dragging my feet because I didn't want to lose the velocity but I'm over it and enjoying the form factor with an OTB suppressor.

Sure, agreed. Jake and I didn’t discuss pricing yet. As said, he can weigh in on that. With that said, I would personally be shocked if itI got a quote for $1100 for a right-handed rifle in a configuration that should be really popular. I think .223 and a 16” barrel go together like pees and carrots.
 
Why not 22 250? More velocity, better factory selection of ammunition. Wyoming requires 60 grain soft lead bullets for shooting antelope, deer, mountain lions with 22 cal. Ive never found that commercially available in 223.
I had a 22-250 for a barrel worth in 24-25' and what I saw in factory selections was 50gr and 55gr stuff.

But I think "why not" for this thread is most guys are using these guns for training and probably have a .224 standard size case gun too or something pretty close.
 
Go order your lefty stainless threaded now! (shameless plug). Just 2 more til the batch order is placed!

 
Why not 22 250? More velocity, better factory selection of ammunition. Wyoming requires 60 grain soft lead bullets for shooting antelope, deer, mountain lions with 22 cal. Ive never found that commercially available in 223.

These are trainers for many of us. It would only take me a couple of months to shoot out a .22-250 if I shot it like I do my .223. Additionally, Not every state has restrictions like Wyoming. Many states allow .223 for big game (although not my home state, Virginia, which completely prohibits .224 for deer).

If you have not done so, you might want to check out the .223 successor thread and read up on our lord and savior, the 77-grain TMK.

I already have a Tikka stainless steel, factory-threaded 5/8-24, 1:8” twist, 22” barrel .22-250.
 
These are trainers for many of us. It would only take me a couple of months to shoot out a .22-250 if I shot it like I do my .223. Additionally, Not every state has restrictions like Wyoming. Many states allow .223 for big game (although not my home state, Virginia, which completely prohibits .224 for deer).

If you have not done so, you might want to check out the .223 successor thread and read up on our lord and savior, the 77-grain TMK.

I already have a Tikka stainless steel, factory-threaded 5/8-24, 1:8” twist, 22” barrel .22-250.
You kinda lost me on the idea of a lightened short barrel 223 for a target gun.
 
You kinda lost me on the idea of a lightened short barrel 223 for a target gun.

It’s a trainer. Not a “target gun.” It’s for shooting from field positions from 100-600 yards. It’s short because it doesn’t give up much of anything by being short and it’s not stupidly long when you put on a suppressor. And it just plain works.

This is the one I currently use (Tikka T3, cut down to 16.5”, threaded 1/2-28, 1-10” twist). The suppressor is a 7.62 AB Raptor 10 with 5” reflex.
dd9e907ad681f4a96e2982ed8bcac41a.jpg


Due to the twist rate, it won’t stabilize the longer, heavier bullets. It gets 3150 FPS with Frontier 62-grain 5.56, 2981 with ADI 55-grain, and 2750 with ADI 69-grain .223. The trajectory for the latter ammunition closely approximates a 6.5 CM hunting rifle and works well with Quick Drop.
2ef363b4997fa42304a139cff0c54863.jpg

655d0be73b63b3b6ff9de6b4a2ebd651.jpg
 
It’s a trainer. Not a “target gun.” It’s for shooting from field positions from 100-600 yards. It’s short because it doesn’t give up much of anything by being short and it’s not stupidly long when you put on a suppressor. And it just plain works.

This is the one I currently use (Tikka T3, cut down to 16.5”, threaded 1/2-28, 1-10” twist). The suppressor is a 7.62 AB Raptor 10 with 5” reflex.
dd9e907ad681f4a96e2982ed8bcac41a.jpg


Due to the twist rate, it won’t stabilize the longer, heavier bullets. It gets 3150 FPS with Frontier 62-grain 5.56, 2981 with ADI 55-grain, and 2750 with ADI 69-grain .223. The trajectory for the latter ammunition closely approximates a 6.5 CM hunting rifle and works well with Quick Drop.
2ef363b4997fa42304a139cff0c54863.jpg

655d0be73b63b3b6ff9de6b4a2ebd651.jpg
Do you like this rifle the way its set up now, other than the twist rate? If so, why not just ditch the dumb 10"twist and screw on a 7 twist ss prefit?
 
Do you like this rifle the way its set up now, other than the twist rate? If so, why not just ditch the dumb 10"twist and screw on a 7 twist ss prefit?

Are you really trying to convince me not to buy a new rifle? Friends don’t do that to each other, Brad.

“Why [Brad] does this mean we're not friends anymore? You know [Brad], if I thought you weren't my friend... I just don't think I could bear it!”

Obviously, the rifle I have is just fine as it is… and, when I eventually shoot the barrel out, I will put one with a more appropriate twist rate on it. But, in the meantime, I am interested in seeing if Jake can get one of these. I’m sure my daughter or my puppy or someone in the household needs a rifle, even if I don’t.
 
Lol not trying to talk anyone out of buying a rifle. I have one set up and still need another one since my boy says the one I posted above is his. Ill set ip another 223 in a rokstock lite for my boy to use. My blued 8 twist 223 will get a 7 twist ss barrel for me. Just saying rebarreling the 10twist would be quick, easy, and practical. 👍
 
I’ll let Jake weigh in on that. Obviously, that’s probably an important consideration for everyone.
I went back to check on the messages to Brad. He said it would likely be quite costly and he would have to get a commitment of at least 100.

Cheapest solution seem off-the-rack stainless cut/threaded. Or even better, an off the rack blued that you have nitrided.
 
I bought this rifle last year for almost 100$ less than the link above. It rusts up just from grabbing the barrel and leaving fingerprints on it if you don't wipe it down. Not that big of deal really but it's the bore that matters and ill take ss over chrome moly any day of the week.
That looks like a nice setup! It's unfortunate that it rusts so easily. If I ended up with a chrome moly blued Tikka I'd probably try sending the action and barrel out for nitride.

I also mostly care about the rifle bore, and living in the rainy PNW I've seen how quickly blued guns can start to rust. I don't mind paying the premium up front for stainless to keep the bore in good condition and reduce maintenance and worries.
 
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