AR = Everything

[Tobe_B]

When I setup the LOP and eye relief for me, the ocular was always right over the charging handle.

Unless you have a fixed stock on it, there’s little reason to set your scope up for LOP and eye relief. Most ARs have a multi position stock so that you can adjust your length of pull where needed. Set your scope eyepiece inline or just a touch forward or the charging handle and your issues would probably go away. That’s how I was taught to set mine up by much more experienced guys than me. It’s worked well so far on each rifle I’ve set up.

 

[Steve300xcw]

 

[BLJ]

I agree with this and I’m not sure why it ended up the way it did.
I’m sure there was a reason, but it’s been long enough now that I can’t recall why.

 

[BLJ]

Unless you have a fixed stock on it, there’s little reason to set your scope up for LOP and eye relief. Most ARs have a multi position stock so that you can adjust your length of pull where needed. Set your scope eyepiece inline or just a touch forward or the charging handle and your issues would probably go away. That’s how I was taught to set mine up by much more experienced guys than me. It’s worked well so far on each rifle I’ve set up.

I agree with this and I’m not sure why it ended up the way it did.
I’m sure there was a reason, but it’s been long enough now that I can’t recall why.

 

[BLJ]

View attachment 1026871

Absolutely.
Not sure why I set myself up for problems.
Been long enough now that I can’t say.

 

[Steve300xcw]

Meh, its easy to do if your used to a bolt gun. These things are just different

 

[NateTP38]

Speaking of not wanting to set myself up for problems, how much room do I need to have between the barrel and handguard to run a 3" OTB suppressor (either my Raptor 8 or potentially an OG Triple 6 in the future)? Is a 13" handguard on a 16" barrel enough, or do I need a margin of error?

 

[Mo]

I bought my first AR-10 a couple weeks ago. Daniel Defense in 6.5cm, a hoot to shoot and if range session one is any indication, more accurate than I expected. Not a light gun, but not ridiculous to carry.

 

[43.6N]

Speaking of not wanting to set myself up for problems, how much room do I need to have between the barrel and handguard to run a 3" OTB suppressor (either my Raptor 8 or potentially an OG Triple 6 in the future)? Is a 13" handguard on a 16" barrel enough, or do I need a margin of error?

I only have the OG65 to measure off of. It’s a true 4” on the dot reflex from the muzzle crown.
I’m sure the triple 6 will be 3” exactly from muzzle crown. I can’t speak for the raptor reflex measurements, so take the next paragraph with a grain of salt:

I would keep measuring simple, and just make sure from end of hand guard to threaded shoulder you have 3” of clearance. That should give you 5/8” of clearance to the muzzle if things are true and exact.

So for a true 16.0” barrel (but check that it’s not 16.25 or 16.5 etc) hand guard length of 12 3/8” would be ideal.

 

[IW17]

I’ve enjoyed watching this thread. To the OP, I am in the same situation with similar circumstances stances. Outdoor/on farm work and a rifle that’s handi enough to be around when you need it, but capable enough to use for most of the opportunities you run in to. I’ve got a couple of rifles I take with me and I can say from experience:

- Barrel: 10-12.5 in barrel feels perfect. Small enough to get in and out of vehicles quick, but long enough to get bullets up to speed. Seriously, go shorter than you think. Mine are pistols FWIW
Scope: either an LPVO or a light weight 2.5-10 I would say are extremely effective and into the realm of user preference for “best”

- Caliber: I’ve got 223, 22ARC, and 6arc. They all work, but I reload and tend to use the 223 the most because it doesn’t hurt my feelings when the brass vanishes. 22ARC is my favorite to shoot but thats just personal preference

- Components: I went with the cheapest milspec I could find except barrel and trigger. They shoot pretty good and are cheap enough I don’t feel bad using and abusing them. That means a lot to me

- Other notes: wrap the handguard in something soft. It doesn’t get as cold, clinks less and rests on things like your truck window better. Get some C sized ram mounts with the large clamp and a few straps that have QD sling connectors on them. If your gun doesn’t have a solid place to be, you’ll end up leaving it in the truck and won’t have it when you need it.

Hope this helps and good luck.

I put stealth strips on my handguard and stock. What a simple yet welcomed addition. Makes handling it in sub freezing temps much easier and eliminates so many little metallic sounds when you bump it on something.

 

[justinspicher]

I use vet wrap on my handguards. It’s cheaper than anything else and works well.

 

[RockAndSage]

I put stealth strips on my handguard and stock. What a simple yet welcomed addition. Makes handling it in sub freezing temps much easier and eliminates so many little metallic sounds when you bump it on something. View attachment 1027427

Hadn't heard of this before your post - what's the details on it? Is it something to expect to replace every year, or does it hold up pretty well?

 

[IW17]

Hadn't heard of this before your post - what's the details on it? Is it something to expect to replace every year, or does it hold up pretty well?

It's just basically a roll of sticky felt like material. I heard about it from a buddy who saddle hunts. So far it's held up nicely. I put it on over two years ago and it's still going strong. It's a bit frayed on the edges but nothing that concerns me enough to replace it so far.