AR = Everything

I bought my first AR-10 a couple weeks ago. Daniel Defense in 6.5cm, a hoot to shoot and if range session one is any indication, more accurate than I expected. Not a light gun, but not ridiculous to carry.
 
Speaking of not wanting to set myself up for problems, how much room do I need to have between the barrel and handguard to run a 3" OTB suppressor (either my Raptor 8 or potentially an OG Triple 6 in the future)? Is a 13" handguard on a 16" barrel enough, or do I need a margin of error?
I only have the OG65 to measure off of. It’s a true 4” on the dot reflex from the muzzle crown.
I’m sure the triple 6 will be 3” exactly from muzzle crown. I can’t speak for the raptor reflex measurements, so take the next paragraph with a grain of salt:

I would keep measuring simple, and just make sure from end of hand guard to threaded shoulder you have 3” of clearance. That should give you 5/8” of clearance to the muzzle if things are true and exact.

So for a true 16.0” barrel (but check that it’s not 16.25 or 16.5 etc) hand guard length of 12 3/8” would be ideal.
 
I’ve enjoyed watching this thread. To the OP, I am in the same situation with similar circumstances stances. Outdoor/on farm work and a rifle that’s handi enough to be around when you need it, but capable enough to use for most of the opportunities you run in to. I’ve got a couple of rifles I take with me and I can say from experience:

- Barrel: 10-12.5 in barrel feels perfect. Small enough to get in and out of vehicles quick, but long enough to get bullets up to speed. Seriously, go shorter than you think. Mine are pistols FWIW
Scope: either an LPVO or a light weight 2.5-10 I would say are extremely effective and into the realm of user preference for “best”

- Caliber: I’ve got 223, 22ARC, and 6arc. They all work, but I reload and tend to use the 223 the most because it doesn’t hurt my feelings when the brass vanishes. 22ARC is my favorite to shoot but thats just personal preference

- Components: I went with the cheapest milspec I could find except barrel and trigger. They shoot pretty good and are cheap enough I don’t feel bad using and abusing them. That means a lot to me

- Other notes: wrap the handguard in something soft. It doesn’t get as cold, clinks less and rests on things like your truck window better. Get some C sized ram mounts with the large clamp and a few straps that have QD sling connectors on them. If your gun doesn’t have a solid place to be, you’ll end up leaving it in the truck and won’t have it when you need it.

Hope this helps and good luck.
I put stealth strips on my handguard and stock. What a simple yet welcomed addition. Makes handling it in sub freezing temps much easier and eliminates so many little metallic sounds when you bump it on something. 20240310_232103.jpg
 
I put stealth strips on my handguard and stock. What a simple yet welcomed addition. Makes handling it in sub freezing temps much easier and eliminates so many little metallic sounds when you bump it on something. View attachment 1027427


Hadn't heard of this before your post - what's the details on it? Is it something to expect to replace every year, or does it hold up pretty well?
 
Hadn't heard of this before your post - what's the details on it? Is it something to expect to replace every year, or does it hold up pretty well?
It's just basically a roll of sticky felt like material. I heard about it from a buddy who saddle hunts. So far it's held up nicely. I put it on over two years ago and it's still going strong. It's a bit frayed on the edges but nothing that concerns me enough to replace it so far.
 
I shot my new rifle today but the sun went down before I could complete the zero. Rifle shoots smoothly. Upper is an ARP/Blackstone 12.5 inch in 6.8 SPC ll. Can is a Trash Panda on a Cherry Bomb muzzle device. Scope is a Trijicon Credo 1x8x28 FFP in a Trijicon cantilever mount. I will finish zeroing tomorrow. 6.8 AR.jpeg
 
So my 11.5” rebuild based on this thread is slowly moving forward. I added a MWI upper with an 11.5” Criterion Core barrel back in Feb that shoots pretty well. But it’s way overgassed with the AB Raptor 8 can that I’m using. I changed the mainspring and it’s still kicking brass out at 1-2 o’clock. The MWI and Core barrel is a bit chonkier than the previous setup, but definitely more accurate.

I also just added a used SWFA 1-6 in one of their SSALT mounts to replace the POS scope that I had on it. The Trijicon and Nightforce reticle options were not calling to me. The SWFA reticle isn’t optimal either, but I like it better than either of those. Aside from being in the same class for durability, I’m only $500 into the SWFA scope and mount opposed to $1500-2300 for Trijicon or Nightforce.

Next step is to order a Ridgeback Roadie and move my AB Raptor back to my bolt guns. I was waiting on their new titanium version, but there is only a couple ounces difference between it and the Rhodie 6k in inconel and there doesn’t appear to be a huge gap in performance between the 6 and 6k. I’m leaning towards the 6k at this point. Both are a huge improvement on back pressure and are way quieter than you’d expect given their size. Once I get the can on it, I will do another function check. If it’s still overgassed, I will add a BRT EZTUNE gas tube.

The only other thing I’m considering is dependent on the ATF. I just hate braces. But I travel a lot and don’t want to have to deal with the notification process for crossing state lines. If the new rules actually 86 the requirement to notify unless the gun is going to stay in the new location for more than 12 months, I will SBR and add a real stock and ditch the stupid brace.

Either way, this gun is intended to travel with us when camping in remote spots and will take at least a couple does this fall. I’m not giving up my bolt guns, but this one is definitely getting used a lot.
 
What are y’all’s thoughts on AR scope mounts? The Nightforce seems to be the top recommendation. Are their other options that are lower cost, reasonable weight, and still durable? Considering this SWFA SSALT mount that is $60, but the only downside is that it’s a half a pound. The Nightforce mount carves a couple oz off that for $300. What would y’all recommend?
 
AR scope mounts?
I had asked form this in another thread. He said Geissele and NF are usually good to go. I wouldn't buy either of them for $300 though. Shop around and you can find them for $240 pretty regularly. Avoid vertically split rings, recoil lugs to interface with the pic section are a good idea, I prefer large bolts for the scope mount to pic interface. Hand tighten the bolts, and then use your wrench for 1/4 turn past that. Confirm 65in-ibs with torque driver.

Avoid Reptilia. Their screws suck and the spring loaded base is stupid, and also breaks. I haven't tried them but these refurbished vortex precision mounts for $125 might be decent. I would definitely witness mark everything though to be sure. https://aaoptics.com/REFURBISHED-PRECISION-EXTENDED-CANTILEVER-MOUNT-30-MM_p_1006.html
 
IADM if you want QD but they have split rings. Warne also makes some well built more budget friendly models.
What makes me cautious about the adm mounts is they use a different torque spec rating for the top and bottom screws of the split rings, and they're both low compared to other manufacturers. They do make horizontal split mounts, but they're much closer in price to the aforementioned NF and G$, not quite badger pricing though.
 
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