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I only have the OG65 to measure off of. It’s a true 4” on the dot reflex from the muzzle crown.Speaking of not wanting to set myself up for problems, how much room do I need to have between the barrel and handguard to run a 3" OTB suppressor (either my Raptor 8 or potentially an OG Triple 6 in the future)? Is a 13" handguard on a 16" barrel enough, or do I need a margin of error?
I put stealth strips on my handguard and stock. What a simple yet welcomed addition. Makes handling it in sub freezing temps much easier and eliminates so many little metallic sounds when you bump it on something.I’ve enjoyed watching this thread. To the OP, I am in the same situation with similar circumstances stances. Outdoor/on farm work and a rifle that’s handi enough to be around when you need it, but capable enough to use for most of the opportunities you run in to. I’ve got a couple of rifles I take with me and I can say from experience:
- Barrel: 10-12.5 in barrel feels perfect. Small enough to get in and out of vehicles quick, but long enough to get bullets up to speed. Seriously, go shorter than you think. Mine are pistols FWIW
Scope: either an LPVO or a light weight 2.5-10 I would say are extremely effective and into the realm of user preference for “best”
- Caliber: I’ve got 223, 22ARC, and 6arc. They all work, but I reload and tend to use the 223 the most because it doesn’t hurt my feelings when the brass vanishes. 22ARC is my favorite to shoot but thats just personal preference
- Components: I went with the cheapest milspec I could find except barrel and trigger. They shoot pretty good and are cheap enough I don’t feel bad using and abusing them. That means a lot to me
- Other notes: wrap the handguard in something soft. It doesn’t get as cold, clinks less and rests on things like your truck window better. Get some C sized ram mounts with the large clamp and a few straps that have QD sling connectors on them. If your gun doesn’t have a solid place to be, you’ll end up leaving it in the truck and won’t have it when you need it.
Hope this helps and good luck.

I put stealth strips on my handguard and stock. What a simple yet welcomed addition. Makes handling it in sub freezing temps much easier and eliminates so many little metallic sounds when you bump it on something. View attachment 1027427
It's just basically a roll of sticky felt like material. I heard about it from a buddy who saddle hunts. So far it's held up nicely. I put it on over two years ago and it's still going strong. It's a bit frayed on the edges but nothing that concerns me enough to replace it so far.Hadn't heard of this before your post - what's the details on it? Is it something to expect to replace every year, or does it hold up pretty well?

I had asked form this in another thread. He said Geissele and NF are usually good to go. I wouldn't buy either of them for $300 though. Shop around and you can find them for $240 pretty regularly. Avoid vertically split rings, recoil lugs to interface with the pic section are a good idea, I prefer large bolts for the scope mount to pic interface. Hand tighten the bolts, and then use your wrench for 1/4 turn past that. Confirm 65in-ibs with torque driver.AR scope mounts?
I've had them all. The great one's are heavy. Badger ordnance followed by nightforce are my favorites. ADM if you want QD but they have split rings. Warne also makes some well built more budget friendly models.AR scope mounts
What makes me cautious about the adm mounts is they use a different torque spec rating for the top and bottom screws of the split rings, and they're both low compared to other manufacturers. They do make horizontal split mounts, but they're much closer in price to the aforementioned NF and G$, not quite badger pricing though.IADM if you want QD but they have split rings. Warne also makes some well built more budget friendly models.