Anyone tried peanut oil in your chainsaw?

Milwaukee Hackzall, 12.0 battery, 12" pruning blade.
Tool hangs on lash rope of first pack horse with carabiner, blade goes in chap pocket.
Clear trail, cut wood for stove, make whatever cut you want on carcass.
 
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Many years ago I used a chainsaw to quarter up an elk. The saw tended to create a lot of chips.

I use a sawzall with a 10" blade. It's fast and the chips clean off with a brush. The lower legs come off with a knife in seconds. Especially if you remove them before they freeze. You are only cutting tendons - not bone.

I use an electric chainsaw for cutting trail and its handy as the sawzall and the chainsaw use the same battery.
 
I used my WY saw a couple years ago to cut off the legs on my moose, that was faster than using the knife at the joint. Then this last year I tried skull-capping with my 20v Sawzall and those blades were smoking. I tried three different blades including a diamond cut blade and all of them seemed to struggle. I'll probably stick to my WY saw.
 
I've been using my Gomboy for a couple of seasons. If i choke up on the blade, it's great for the sternum. It cuts on the pull stroke, so less tendency to push too deep. A small, sharp knife is still the key to the joints.
 
*zap* said:
hackzall can be used with one hand for starters. They just work better and are more user friendly imo.
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That's what I bought. Didn't realize that style had a different name.

Do think the larger ones would be helpful for bison, moose, assuming the blades are longer and the motors are more powerful.
 
the m-18 hackzall is imo more powerful than the m-18 sawzall....as long as they are both 'fuel' grade. Any 110 sawzall is not considered for field use....

I have a m-18 sawzall, like new, I will sell.....probably will list it. No battery/charger.
 
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A good ole handsaw requires no oil. Just a bit of elbow grease.


I might not recognize the advantage of using a battery powered chain saw for cutting meat. But, if I haven’t missed a true plus, I’m truly confused how using a handsaw for butchering meat has fell out to a battery powered chainsaw. Have we slipped this far? Or, am I just a fool ignorant of a much better option. I’m being serious too.
 
WV Mountaineer said:
A good ole handsaw requires no oil. Just a bit of elbow grease.


I might not recognize the advantage of using a battery powered chain saw for cutting meat. But, if I haven’t missed a true plus, I’m truly confused how using a handsaw for butchering meat has fell out to a battery powered chainsaw. Have we slipped this far? Or, am I just a fool ignorant of a much better option. I’m being serious too.
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I use a battery or electric powered chain saw on beef cows and it's quick & easy, albeit leaves chips. Can cut thru a wrist-thick bone in 1-2-3 and then you're on to something else.

Wouldn't to use hand power if splitting a cow carcass up the spine... It'll split the entire pelvis in about 10 seconds.

Use sawzall on deer, chainsaw seems overkill.

This is all raw meat processing. If I was cutting steaks and chops and such, would prefer heavily chilled meat and a bandsaw equipped for that purpose.
 
WV Mountaineer said:
A good ole handsaw requires no oil. Just a bit of elbow grease.


I might not recognize the advantage of using a battery powered chain saw for cutting meat. But, if I haven’t missed a true plus, I’m truly confused how using a handsaw for butchering meat has fell out to a battery powered chainsaw. Have we slipped this far? Or, am I just a fool ignorant of a much better option. I’m being serious too.
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We get into some cull hunts and can have quite a few elk to deal with. Usually these end up hanging whole for skinning in the shop. A chainsaw is fast and doesn't plug the butcher saw with hair or marrow. We only use it to lop legs and heads. In the field on real hunts, a silky saw is the best I've seen and the chainsaw is only marginally faster....but chains are much easier to sharpen than the silky or butcher saw....and no ill effects. I bought my chainsaw in a pawn shop for 40bux and never looked back. It's never seen wood because I have a bunch of pro model saws for wood.
 
5MilesBack said:
I used my WY saw a couple years ago to cut off the legs on my moose, that was faster than using the knife at the joint. Then this last year I tried skull-capping with my 20v Sawzall and those blades were smoking. I tried three different blades including a diamond cut blade and all of them seemed to struggle. I'll probably stick to my WY saw.
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I had the same issue using a sawzall to cut a shank up for osso buco, made a terrible mess and wouldn't cut through. I had a brand new blade too. But it's gotta be the blade. You can get a special bone blade that is like the Wyoming saw blade. I found them online but haven't tried yet.
 
goathunter said:
I had the same issue using a sawzall to cut a shank up for osso buco, made a terrible mess and wouldn't cut through. I had a brand new blade too. But it's gotta be the blade. You can get a special bone blade that is like the Wyoming saw blade. I found them online but haven't tried yet.
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Some of those blades sure appear to be like the bone blade (size, pitch, etc) and are meant for steel and cast iron. I sure expected them to blow right through bone.
 
Lot smaller kerf with a sawsall/hacksall than a chainsaw so cleaner cut and less mess. Better for butchering but maybe not for wood cutting. Personally I think a Silky saw is a pretty good option.
 
Another vote for a Silky saw in the woods. Very effective on bones, branches or smaller logs. Nice and small, even for a backpack. I have and use heavier tools when available at home or near a vehicle.
 
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