Any standing seam metal roof installers?

[Nealm66]

This is what I used. Harness is a tree belt/harness. Didn’t use the figure 8 but put it in in case you think repelling would be handy

 

[ODB]

Standing seam fall protection is some of the most challenging because of anchor/seam compatibility. And if you are going to wear a harness, a full body harness with the lifeline attached to the dorsal d ring is the way to go.

 

[Pgidley]

I found a photo of when I was working on that last section. I flattened out the dorsal D ring so that I could screw it right through the roof deck with 6 big wood screws, into the chord. Then after I was done with the ridge, I was able to slide the remaining panels up under the ridge and screw them down from the extension ladder.

In theory, you might be able to do the same thing in the middle somewhere, remove on panel and then slide it back into place once the ridge cap is on.

 

[Nealm66]

I was in my early 40’s when I did mine. I can’t imagine doing it when I’m 66 = nope

 

[weekender7]

THANKS to all that shared ideas on how to get my ridge cap installed. I got it done by building two saddle seats that would clear the ridge cap while resting on the 10/12 pitch. I used my boom lift to get the seats up on the ridge. I wore a back pack to carry tools, Z bars and caulking gun. The actual install was slow with my method taking me two full days to do the 62'. I would work a panel section putting down the Z bar that holds the ridge cap secure, seal it with silicone, slide the ridge cap section down. Then I would reach behind me and move the 2nd seat in front of me. I would then move forward (scoot) to that seat and repeat. With each 10' section I would move out 10' and start at the "far end" sliding the ridge cap on the Z bars as I worked back to the where the two sections would join. At that point I would have to move back over the newly installed section and out another 10' to start a new section. This made for a lot up and back but it was the only way I could figure to get it done. Each new section would be gently laid on the ridge to get the process started.

Here are the saddle seats:

Installing a section about midway.

Finished with the ridge cap.

 

[ScottH]

I admire your tenacity.

 

[xajoles]

I have been thinking about a standing seam metal roof: 24ga steel, Hylar 5000/Kynar 500 PVDF paint, snap lock panels with striations (14" or 16" wide with 1.5" or 1.75" high seam). Garage/house (83 square total) built in mid-1980s, will tear off shingles and put metal directly on deck (no purlins planned).

I have a several questions but will start off with this:

I got one quote so far, others on the way. Quote came in at ~$150K with no extras/upgrades. I am not paying that much for a roof. I can purchase all materials (panels, clips, hardware/accessories, flashing, boots, underlayments, skylights, snow rails) for ~$35K. I will have most of the summer to work on it and would look forward to doing it. However, I won't have help all the time (some weeks and weekends) and I will have panels up to 40'. I've never installed a metal roof but I am reading up about it. It is a hip and valley roof that is easily accessible (single floor height at eves) but with a lot of detail work required (end walls, side walls, gables, chimney, skylights...).

My main concern is whether I'll be able to get anything done on the days that I don't have extra hands. Appreciate any advice from others who have experience with this.

 

[*zap*]

^ you could probably seam the panels so they do not need to be 40'....tear off and then getting a weatherproof cover on it that will last while you work would be the most critical part imo....

you can also fabricate your own metal panels on a break but then you will have more seams...when we did copper panels we fabricated all of them in 10' pieces......I made jigs from heavy metal the width of the panels....bent the bottom out/down and the top in/up... locked the top in and hammered it down. Never had any issues but those were on pretty steep roofs.

 

[Billy Goat]

^ you could probably seam the panels so they do not need to be 40'....tear off and then getting a weatherproof cover on it that will last while you work would be the most critical part imo....

you can also fabricate your own metal panels on a break but then you will have more seams...when we did copper panels we fabricated all of them in 10' pieces......I made jigs from heavy metal the width of the panels....bent the bottom out/down and the top in/up... locked the top in and hammered it down. Never had any issues but those were on pretty steep roofs.

What was your average time per seam?

I did some standing seam, both turned and copper. Seams were a complete bitch and I'll hire a roll former to come and roll out my lengths.

Don't know the actual labor analysis however I do know that there's always opportunity to screw up with a seam, so I favor full length.


This snap lock stuff is a different beast. The coatings and everything else, I definitely don't want to be bending it around. But been a few years since I was involved with it.


Did make some copper pans last week tho for some sort awnings

 

[*zap*]

We used triple lock standing seam lead coated copper...any issues and we could easily solder on the lead coating. All the attachment straps on the one side were soldered on. The seams end seams went fast but the triple lock took a bit for first lock and then we ran a seamer on it....lead coated copper hides imperfections well, unlike the usual metal used today. Lead coated copper is so caustic that nothing deteriorates it. Full length means paying more than cutting and bending 10' sheets...or rolls yourself.

 

[woods89]

I have been thinking about a standing seam metal roof: 24ga steel, Hylar 5000/Kynar 500 PVDF paint, snap lock panels with striations (14" or 16" wide with 1.5" or 1.75" high seam). Garage/house (83 square total) built in mid-1980s, will tear off shingles and put metal directly on deck (no purlins planned).

I have a several questions but will start off with this:

I got one quote so far, others on the way. Quote came in at ~$150K with no extras/upgrades. I am not paying that much for a roof. I can purchase all materials (panels, clips, hardware/accessories, flashing, boots, underlayments, skylights, snow rails) for ~$35K. I will have most of the summer to work on it and would look forward to doing it. However, I won't have help all the time (some weeks and weekends) and I will have panels up to 40'. I've never installed a metal roof but I am reading up about it. It is a hip and valley roof that is easily accessible (single floor height at eves) but with a lot of detail work required (end walls, side walls, gables, chimney, skylights...).

My main concern is whether I'll be able to get anything done on the days that I don't have extra hands. Appreciate any advice from others who have experience with this.

83 sq is a big roof. Tear off, disposal, lots of flashing details, that stuff adds up. I haven't done much metal roofing in the last few years, so I'm just a little out of touch with pricing, but if it's a reputable company carrying Workers Comp, etc., that's an expensive roof.
If I could guess where you'll have trouble, it may well be the flashing details instead of the long panels. Chimneys and skylights are both somewhat technical to get watertight while looking great. If you've never done metal roof work before, I'd guess you are going to struggle. That's why good roofing companies are expensive, doing watertight flashing that looks really clean is an art.
There's also some definite liability in having a roof compromised for that long. Underlayment usually keeps things dry, but it was always stressful for me when thunderstorms came through and we had a roof partially done. We did a lot of temp dry-in work in the evenings before we went home and I still worried. Thankfully I never got any water in a customers house. If you're in a dry climate that may not be as critical.
My work has transitioned to mostly interior remodeling now, and I really don't miss roof work.

 

[Jakebarnts]

Phew, 150k is a big pill to swallow. Around here (seattle) i will double the material costs to figure my labor for side jobs. If its a super cut up roof, might toss an extra 5-10k at it. The install of metal roofing is simple, especially standing seam, installing metal roof and all the flashing and having it look clean and proper is what usually messes folks up. Sky lights can be a challenge to flash properly.

If you got all summer long and the ability to take your time and do it clean, id say get after it. Spare hands is a big help, especially if they are 40' long. I also have a side job partner(both of us employed as architectural sheetmetal journeyman), so it helps when the help knows whats next and can help prep the next step.

My own dad just opted for a comp roof when i quoted him 85k for a metal roof , i bid that doing the labor for free. Metals spendy, but a nice metal roof sure is pretty.

 

[Jakebarnts]

83 sq is a big roof. Tear off, disposal, lots of flashing details, that stuff adds up. I haven't done much metal roofing in the last few years, so I'm just a little out of touch with pricing, but if it's a reputable company carrying Workers Comp, etc., that's an expensive roof.
If I could guess where you'll have trouble, it may well be the flashing details instead of the long panels. Chimneys and skylights are both somewhat technical to get watertight while looking great. If you've never done metal roof work before, I'd guess you are going to struggle. That's why good roofing companies are expensive, doing watertight flashing that looks really clean is an art.
There's also some definite liability in having a roof compromised for that long. Underlayment usually keeps things dry, but it was always stressful for me when thunderstorms came through and we had a roof partially done. We did a lot of temp dry-in work in the evenings before we went home and I still worried. Thankfully I never got any water in a customers house. If you're in a dry climate that may not be as critical.
My work has transitioned to mostly interior remodeling now, and I really don't miss roof work.

"Watertight flashing that looks really clean is an art".

Man, thats nice to hear. Trying to explain that to people is my biggest struggle sometimes. Pole barn quality on a custom house is insane to me, but thats what most people expect, and theyre ok with it

 

[woods89]

"Watertight flashing that looks really clean is an art".

Man, thats nice to hear. Trying to explain that to people is my biggest struggle sometimes. Pole barn quality on a custom house is insane to me, but thats what most people expect, and theyre ok with it

Yup. It takes a lot of trial and error and thinking like water!

 

[DanimalW]

I’m a metal panel manufacturer’s rep. Current price on that exact panel, run at optimum width, would put you around 35k just for the panels. That’s not including freight, underlayment, or shop fabricated trim. You really need as good underlayment like a self adhered high temp leak barrier on your house at least. It doesn’t make sense to install that expensive of a roof and then chance taking it all off for a leak. I’m guessing that probably puts you closer to 40-45k for materials alone. A typical guideline is that the material will be around 1/3 of the installed cost (not always). On top of that, most good sheet metal shops are probably full for the remainder of the year, and probably won’t even consider it unless they’re making good money. You could ask them if they would give you a discounted rate to install in the winter. Cold temps don’t really affect metal like they do other roofing installs. Most places are looking for work they can do that time of the year. Lastly, that panel is pretty easy to install if you decide to self perform. Slide or shim your clips to as needed to compensate for any slight waves in your roof deck. It will telegraph like crazy if you do not. And plan for a set of hands for every 10 feet of panel at least. Two dudes can lift a 40’ panel, but they’re going to ruin it. I’d also suggest full length panels. As long at they’re under 53’ they’ll ship for the same price.

 

[weekender7]

xajoles, please send pics and tell us what you decided to do, self or hire.

 

[weekender7]

Finally getting the siding on. Just the boards so far. Still have to add the battens.