Any standing seam metal roof installers?

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Jun 3, 2018
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My wife and I are building our own home for our "retirement". I have a couple questions about the standing seam roof I am trying to install. If you can spare me a couple minutes, please PM me.
 
My wife and I are building our own home for our "retirement". I have a couple questions about the standing seam roof I am trying to install. If you can spare me a couple minutes, please PM me.

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Good luck!


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Standing seam is not the most expensive way to go. Individual steel shingles (not concrete-coated steel either) are. Watch a bunch of YouTube videos. Pretty straight forward.
 
Just priced em out. Standing around here was 28 grand for roof and siding. Tough rib 8 grand. Sure there's more expensive ways to go.
 
Its definitely more expensive up front around here with current metal prices but if installed right it will literally last forever and its more energy efficient. Way easier to add solar panels as well. I do floating homes and its what pretty much everyone has me install. I will pm you OP

And its not the most expensive at all... my roof is a low pitch mechanical seam commercial grade metal roof which i install on a lot of modern houses with shed roofs and its more expensive than standard standing seam roofing.
 
Thank you to those who have PMed me, I replied to your PMs. For those interested, I am posting a pic of the house. I am having difficulty figuring out how to physically install the 62' ridge cap on the 10/12 roof line. I haven't been able to come up with a way to do it safely. I can straddle the ridge to get the first 10' section on no problem, but then I can't figure out how to proceed from there. The ridge cap is too "flimsy" to support a man's weight. The 10' sections need to overlap. I can't stand on 10/12 pitch. I have a knee replacement and partially fused ankle on the same side making "side hilling" painful.

vXz03QV.jpg
 
I have the H-Loc from central states on my home, I guess it’s considered mechanical lock as to me a true standing seam is rolled out on site. There are no good subcontractors in my area that do that so I went with the H-Loc in galvalume. I love it, only issue I have is it was installed in the winter and was muddy and I have a few spots where the roof got stained by light foot traffic, handling marks.... other than that I don’t think you can go wrong. It is pretty expensive, comparative to a 30yr comp with synthetic underlayment. Make sure the subcontractor follows ALL manufacturer installation requirements as you would hate to have a claim denied in the future as I do consider that roofing system an investment in both looks and longevity
 
I thought basically all modern metal roofing with hidden fasteners is standing seam technically, the stuff that just snaps together on the one side and has an integrated flange for screws on the other is called snap lock or easy lock which looks to be the same as your h lok. Mechanical seam means you have to use floating clips to install and then physically use a tool to fold the seam over to make it 100% water tight and it usually has butyl injected into the seam as well. Cant use standing seam on low slope roofs. The only time ive had them want to roll on site for either type is due to trucking difficulties like really long lengths and extremely curved roofs
 
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You absolutely can use SSMR on low sloped roofs. Most quality SSMR panels are good down to a 1:12 slope, which is a pretty flat slope. There a few that can go down to 1/4:12.
 
You are totally right, what i meant to say is a snap lock type lol my bad. Basically it has to be mechanical seam for anything lower slope than 3/12 from my understanding
 
Thank you to those who have PMed me, I replied to your PMs. For those interested, I am posting a pic of the house. I am having difficulty figuring out how to physically install the 62' ridge cap on the 10/12 roof line. I haven't been able to come up with a way to do it safely. I can straddle the ridge to get the first 10' section on no problem, but then I can't figure out how to proceed from there. The ridge cap is too "flimsy" to support a man's weight. The 10' sections need to overlap. I can't stand on 10/12 pitch. I have a knee replacement and partially fused ankle on the same side making "side hilling" painful.

vXz03QV.jpg
Get a climbing harness or construction harness and rope, start at one end and straddle the ridge and straddle and shimmy/slide across to the other end, place an eye bolt and safety clip on your rope every 15 feet or so as you go. At the far end install your roof vent and work your way back to the beginning removing your safety eye bolts along the way.
 
def90, I wish I could but you just can't do it that way. You can do the first 10' section like that but then you are where I am today, stuck. The next section has to fit in or on the previous section as a 6" overlap. So you have to have the 2nd section slid onto the Z bars from the far end and you can't set on the new ridge cap, it won't hold any weight.
 
You shouldn’t have to slide anything from the far end. Open up the hem enough so that you can just pop it directly into place and then crimp it down with your duck bills and rivet it.
 
I would love to try that Hootsma. Butt, I can't stand on 10/12 without holding on to something or leaning against a harness. Once the ridge cap is in place, you can't have a rope running over/on it because it won't hold it, the cap will bend under the weight of the rope.
 
I have searched youtube for a video of somebody doing this on a 10/12 but all I could find was 4/12 installs. They just walked all over 4/12 like it was flat. It's different for me with 10/12.
 
Those were stone steeples and the acid rain ate away the stones, the four smaller spires at the base of each steeple had decorative stone on them and they were falling off. The small spires were 25" tall. The lead coated copper laughs at acid rain.
 
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