Any Ford mechanics?

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jmez

jmez

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2016 XLT. Had the intermittent grind when really cold a few times over years. About a week ago driver side started humming/whining. Sounded like bearing to me. Not the IWE grind. Was going to change it over the weekend. Few days later bad grinding started all at once. Like people on side walk start looking.

I knew that was the IWE so I unplugged the solenoid. That helped so I could drive it.

Yesterday took it apart changed both IWE's and hubs. I didn't do any diagnostics before hand. It was obvious. Driver side bearing was shot and IWE had a lot of damage.

Drove it, no noise. Didn't get far and clunk from drivers side. Kept going no noise. Another clunk, then nothing, another clunk then IWE grinding. Stopped it right there and unplugged solenoid. No noise. Drove it several places.

On way home bought a new check valve and solenoid.

Started testing.

Check valve was/is working. I have vacuum in the reservoir and it is pulling 21 in/hg going into the solenoid. Zero vacuum coming out of the solenoid at the upper port.

Replaced the solenoid (dorman aftermarket). Started it let it run, 21 coming in, zero going out. Now I'm confused. How does unplugging the solenoid take away the grind when I have no vacuum going down to the wheels.

While I was standing there confused I pulled the lines at the hubs, plugged them and put vacuum on at the solenoid attachment, the lines aren't holding vacuum, it's bleeding off. I need new lines. I put vacuum on them and spun the wheels, IWE's are working. Spin free until the vacuum drops and they start to engage and grind.

I'm stumped on the no vacuum at the solenoid. As I understand the 2016 should have vacuum and disengage the hubs on start up. Mine has never had the codes changed. Far as I know they should disengage immediately.

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jmez

jmez

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I also had one of my boys switch it back and forth between 2wd and 4wd while running and I can't hear the old or new solenoid clicking.

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The solenoid above the brake booster does not energize/valve open until you drive .5 miles upon key cycle (or 2 miles if it's below 30 deg)

I chased my tail for awhile on this until I bought a Ford manual and read this. It's not in 4wd because transfer case is not locked in, just a warm up cycle for the front diff, cv, hubs. I bet a lot of solenoids have been unnecessary replaced because of this.
 
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jmez

jmez

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I thought that was only 2017 and newer.

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Idaboy

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I know what Sickles said does apply but I don't know what yrs... after replacing lines found out had a bad bearing, then since replacing both bearing/iwe, now no issues. But I assume it may fail again so I am still contemplating just doing the Ford TSB and delete it....eg run in 4A
Why Fords continues to have such a weak system is beyond me
 

Idaboy

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Replacing the lines you may want you're kids with small hands to help as over on the passenger side snaking it through where it's routed was a PITA
 
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jmez

jmez

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I'll drive it today and put the vacuum pump on it after I've driven it. That would make sense.

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Idaboy

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I'll drive it today and put the vacuum pump on it after I've driven it. That would make sense.

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Also, toggle between 2wd and 4A and see if that changes things.
 
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jmez

jmez

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I don't have 4A, just 4H and 4L

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jmez

jmez

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I've got the tech sheet for troubleshooting.

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jolemons

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Just a thought, I really like the RCV IWE Eliminators. I've ran them with good results in offroad conditions. Just cap your vacuum distribution block and forget about the IWEs.

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jmez

jmez

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Ive seen those. If going that route why not just cap the vacuum and leave the IWE's engaged?

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jmez

jmez

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I've got that sheet. Goes through a different step if you have 2017 or newer. That's why I believe the 2016 should have vacuum at start up.

I haven't tried 4wd yet. I don't want to hook it back up when I know the hose isn't holding pressure. Afraid I'll ruin $400 worth of parts.

Once I change hoses I'll try it. Still can't figure out why I have no vacuum at the solenoid though.

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