2016 XLT. Had the intermittent grind when really cold a few times over years. About a week ago driver side started humming/whining. Sounded like bearing to me. Not the IWE grind. Was going to change it over the weekend. Few days later bad grinding started all at once. Like people on side walk start looking.
I knew that was the IWE so I unplugged the solenoid. That helped so I could drive it.
Yesterday took it apart changed both IWE's and hubs. I didn't do any diagnostics before hand. It was obvious. Driver side bearing was shot and IWE had a lot of damage.
Drove it, no noise. Didn't get far and clunk from drivers side. Kept going no noise. Another clunk, then nothing, another clunk then IWE grinding. Stopped it right there and unplugged solenoid. No noise. Drove it several places.
On way home bought a new check valve and solenoid.
Started testing.
Check valve was/is working. I have vacuum in the reservoir and it is pulling 21 in/hg going into the solenoid. Zero vacuum coming out of the solenoid at the upper port.
Replaced the solenoid (dorman aftermarket). Started it let it run, 21 coming in, zero going out. Now I'm confused. How does unplugging the solenoid take away the grind when I have no vacuum going down to the wheels.
While I was standing there confused I pulled the lines at the hubs, plugged them and put vacuum on at the solenoid attachment, the lines aren't holding vacuum, it's bleeding off. I need new lines. I put vacuum on them and spun the wheels, IWE's are working. Spin free until the vacuum drops and they start to engage and grind.
I'm stumped on the no vacuum at the solenoid. As I understand the 2016 should have vacuum and disengage the hubs on start up. Mine has never had the codes changed. Far as I know they should disengage immediately.
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