Another DIY Stove

[SHTF]

He just cut small sqaures out of 2 edges on each side. I will break it out here in a bit and snap a Photo for you. or shoot me your email and I can email the photos to you. Either way you want to go.

 

[dotman]

FYI... Ti-Goat stopped adding the holes because after further testing they found them unneeded, my stove does not have them, I just leave the door open or leave it open alittle.

When I want to shut her down I just close the door all the way.

The stove has a hook that you put the door on, there is a little slit at the bottom so it can breath or since the door is on a hook you can move it left or right to add air.

This takes away the need for the door hinges as well and drop a little weigh.

I have found that 90% of the time I leave the door off and just watch the fire once it is blazin.

Looks great man and I may update my ti-goat to your allthread and wingnuts on both ends cause the springs/washer setup on the ti-goat is my biggest complaint.

 

[Yellowknife]

FYI... Ti-Goat stopped adding the holes because after further testing they found them unneeded, my stove does not have them, I just leave the door open or leave it open alittle.

Ti-Goat can get away with that because there is a slight bend in the ti-foil that the door is made of (as you noted). That allows plenty of air to get under the lower edge of the door. You can even tweak that bend in or out a little to adjust the amount of "normal" draft you get.

However, with a flat SS door like the OP's, I'm not sure that method would work.

I do like the way the Ti-Goat door just hangs on the peg. Simple, light, and completely out of the way for loading.

Yk

 

[dotman]

I don't run a spark arrestor, the dampener seems to knock down most sparks, I make my pipe a minimum of a foot above the peak and haven't had any pinholes develop in my shelters. Could just be luck though.

 

[dotman]

Ti-Goat can get away with that because there is a slight bend in the ti-foil that the door is made of (as you noted). That allows plenty of air to get under the lower edge of the door. You can even tweak that bend in or out a little to adjust the amount of "normal" draft you get.

However, with a flat SS door like the OP's, I'm not sure that method would work.

I do like the way the Ti-Goat door just hangs on the peg. Simple, light, and completely out of the way for loading.

Yk

Yeah your right, I would think one could easily duplicate it out of the leftover ss foil, if extra is bought, and not use the ss cutout from the plate as the door.

 

[tenth1]

I usually will not set foot in a walmart, but I will tomorrow. Thanks for the ideas.

I don't know much about stove design, but how would it work tipped 90*? I see old military (and some modern) stoves where they are standing upright, fed from the top.

 

[bbrown]

SHFT - Ya if you would not mind posting up a picture it might persuade me. Ive got it stuck in my head that I would rather not cut any holes or notches in the body but Ed has been building stoves a hell of lot longer than me so if it works for him....

Dotman - I hear you on the Ti Goat style door but for some reason I was set that I wanted it all to be attached as much as possible even though it did add a bit of weight. Plus I was able to make the opening bigger. After looking again if the hinges end up not being needed I could easily swap the door over to hang since I have 2' of extra SS foil - argggg.

The all thread will add some weight - I think they are just over 4 oz for all 3. Good to hear about the sparks - I ordered my pipe so its almost 2' above the highest point.

tenth1 - I'm not sure why they don't make backpacking style stoves like that. The new kifaru oval is similar in design to what you are talking but is still fed from the side I believe.

 

[bbrown]

Had a question about using titanium over stainless and if you built it the same way I did but used TI foil for the stove pipe, stove body and end plates it would save you approximately 8.5oz (which is a lot at almost 25%) but would cost $111 essentially doubling the cost which was not worth it to me.

Here is how it breaks down -
Stove body: SS - 7.8oz @ $17.25
VS
TI - 5.55oz @ $45.00

Stove pipe: SS - 14oz @ $42.00
VS
TI - 10.64oz @ $87.50

End plates: SS - 6.8oz @ $12.97 *Using the walmart burner covers
VS
TI - 4oz @ $50.97 *Using 3 Snowpeak TI plates from REI at $16.99 ea

 

[colonel00]

If it was fed from the top wouldn't you get a lot of smoke exiting and filling the tent?

Also, how about using aluminum all thread? I guess it could potentially get too hot or you could strip the threads easier but it was an idea.

 

[SHTF]

SHFT - Ya if you would not mind posting up a picture it might persuade me. Ive got it stuck in my head that I would rather not cut any holes or notches in the body but Ed has been building stoves a hell of lot longer than me so if it works for him....

Dotman - I hear you on the Ti Goat style door but for some reason I was set that I wanted it all to be attached as much as possible even though it did add a bit of weight. Plus I was able to make the opening bigger. After looking again if the hinges end up not being needed I could easily swap the door over to hang since I have 2' of extra SS foil - argggg.

The all thread will add some weight - I think they are just over 4 oz for all 3. Good to hear about the sparks - I ordered my pipe so its almost 2' above the highest point.

tenth1 - I'm not sure why they don't make backpacking style stoves like that. The new kifaru oval is similar in design to what you are talking but is still fed from the side I believe.

Brian,

I will get those up for you tonight when I get home from work.

 

[bbrown]

Sounds good - no rush.

Hmmm had not looked into aluminum but looks like it can be had for fairly cheap.
I did look into TI threaded rod and it was like $46 for a 3' piece and I would need 2. I think I gave $2 for the stuff at home depot.

 

[Hoyts n Mulies]

Nice work! What guage of stainless steel did you use for the body?

 

[bbrown]

Not sure which gauge it is but its .004 thick.

 

[SHTF]

Brian here are the Photos I promised you.

 

[dotman]

If it was fed from the top wouldn't you get a lot of smoke exiting and filling the tent?

Also, how about using aluminum all thread? I guess it could potentially get too hot or you could strip the threads easier but it was an idea.

I think it might get too hot, mine gets bright red hot.

 

[realunlucky]

Looks like from shft pictures you could use a nutsert to hold the legs on. It expands like a rivet but has threads on the inside dont know if ss is an option. Might have to try this my self thanks

 

[bbrown]

Thanks for the pics SHFT - it seems simple enough.

 

[Jw9673]

Great work.. Here in Florida I haven't tried building a closed tent stove, but tinker with rocket stoves and TLUD's for backpack cooking.. For your problem drilling clean holes there are 2 other techniques you can use in addition to the step drill already mentioned. First is a sheet metal punch set from harbor freight, it's the best investment if your going to make a few of these. Next is to clamp the metal between 2 pieces of scrap wood and drill through all of it, it controls the punch through of the thin stainless.

 

[trk3263]

I may have missed it in all the posts but what thickness stainless does everyone recommend? I am thinkking about making one similar to the TiGoat Wifi and looking for suggestions for both the top/bottom steel thickness and the stove side thickness.

Thanks

 

[bbrown]

I may have missed it in all the posts but what thickness stainless does everyone recommend? I am thinkking about making one similar to the TiGoat Wifi and looking for suggestions for both the top/bottom steel thickness and the stove side thickness.

Thanks

The stove body and pipe are made out of SS .004 thick and Ti Goat sells the titanium foil which is .005 thick. I am not sure on the end plates I used but I would guess them to be between 20 and 22 gauge. Find local HVAC company and I bet they could bend you the top and bottom plates on their brake out of some scrap for cheap ie case of beer - thats my plan anyways.
Let me know how it turns out - I like the WiFi design and was thinking about tinkering with that design next just to see.