6mm/243 options

Harvey_NW

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What does a person do about something like this:? It's a 7prc necked down to 6mm. I can't get the whole neck length resized.View attachment 641226
I would bet that's due to the bushing, most have a slight chamfer and don't size the entire portion of the neck. In that case it will form out. If it fits, it ships. SEND IT!
 
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Jimbee

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I would bet that's due to the bushing, most have a slight chamfer and don't size the entire portion of the neck. In that case it will form out. If it fits, it ships. SEND IT!
That's the answer I was looking for, thank you!
 

Harvey_NW

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That's the answer I was looking for, thank you!
I wouldn't start with a full tilt load, but if it chambers without resistance it should form out fine. Even if it has a little resistance it's just a false shoulder which will cause it to fully form out on first firing anyway.
 
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Fire forming 6UM is literally easier than sizing them through a die. If it sounds like an obstacle to you, don't let it be!
1. Get a take off 6mm barrel. Easy to find, someone will probably just give it to you.
2. Have it chambered at the same time as your actual barrel
3. Put it hand tight on you action before installing your main barrel
4. Prime and load cases with 20gr Titegroup. Lightly oil with low viscosity oil (like honing oil).
5. Point them upwards and shoot. This can be done in your basement. Wear ear plugs, don't get the barrel too close to anything.
6. 50 cases takes about 30 minutes including charging. Clean and degrease after.
7. Install your primary barrel. If you do ~200 or more, it will be years before you have to do it again.
 

hereinaz

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Fire forming 6UM is literally easier than sizing them through a die. If it sounds like an obstacle to you, don't let it be!
1. Get a take off 6mm barrel. Easy to find, someone will probably just give it to you.
2. Have it chambered at the same time as your actual barrel
3. Put it hand tight on you action before installing your main barrel
4. Prime and load cases with 20gr Titegroup. Lightly oil with low viscosity oil (like honing oil).
5. Point them upwards and shoot. This can be done in your basement. Wear ear plugs, don't get the barrel too close to anything.
6. 50 cases takes about 30 minutes including charging. Clean and degrease after.
7. Install your primary barrel. If you do ~200 or more, it will be years before you have to do it again.
LOL, I love my wildcats and don’t mind my fireforming. For fun, I have been imagining ways that you could be sizing brass in your dies that is harder than your 7 steps. I never have to wear ear plugs or replace my barrel, Hahha

I am definitely not saying it is a huge deal to fireform brass. I do my 6 BRA… but those steps are a sizable investment for an extra chamber and forming brass.

I get that you are trying to get people over the fear. And, I support that. Wildcats make for fun tinkering, but it’s not easier.

I just was amused picturing a guy going all Wiley Coyote sizing brass.
 
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LOL, I love my wildcats and don’t mind my fireforming. For fun, I have been imagining ways that you could be sizing brass in your dies that is harder than your 7 steps. I never have to wear ear plugs or replace my barrel, Hahha

I am definitely not saying it is a huge deal to fireform brass. I do my 6 BRA… but those steps are a sizable investment for an extra chamber and forming brass.

I get that you are trying to get people over the fear. And, I support that. Wildcats make for fun tinkering, but it’s not easier.

I just was amused picturing a guy going all Wiley Coyote sizing brass.
Setting the second barrel up and swapping it on to fire form is the only bad part.
I'm imagining a fire forming die that would do the same thing, but with just the die and no action/barrel. Like hydro forming, but with the use of a pistol powder like Titegroup to provide the pressure.
 

hereinaz

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Setting the second barrel up and swapping it on to fire form is the only bad part.
I'm imagining a fire forming die that would do the same thing, but with just the die and no action/barrel. Like hydro forming, but with the use of a pistol powder like Titegroup to provide the pressure.
That would be pretty slick, a gadget to do it all. In the end. Doing it with your rifle is easy enough. And, how much would fireforming 100 prices really do to your throat with titegroup…

This is why, the cost of buying something like Sherman brass that is so worth it to me. Just him having brass and dies makes his wildcats more popular.

Buying brass rhst is three times as expensive really is no big deal if you are going to be a wildcatter.
 

CBB1

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With all the 6mm/.243 threads popping up I’ll throw this one on here as well. I’m sure there are a few out here in the same situation I am of wanting a new gun but not sure how to justify it against what I already own.

I’ve been kicking around the fast twist .243/6CM idea in my head for a while. I want a rifle that is cut to 16” for a suppressor and can handle whitetail hunting to 400 yards. I currently have a Model 7 with a 9.125” twist that shoots 95gr NBT well out of a 20” barrel getting 2850 with my hand load.

For a a hunter, in my situation what do I gain from buying a 8” twist Tikka 243 or rebarreling my Model 7 to a 6CM? It would be easier to just cut down my current model 7. But then I’m not buying a new Tikka to join the cool kid club.

I guess the best way to sum this up is what is the true benefit of building a gun to shoot the 108eldm when I already have one that shoots the 95grNBT?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
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lak2004

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With all the 6mm/.243 threads popping up I’ll throw this one on here as well. I’m sure there are a few out here in the same situation I am of wanting a new gun but not sure how to justify it against what I already own.

I’ve been kicking around the fast twist .243/6CM idea in my head for a while. I want a rifle that is cut to 16” for a suppressor and can handle whitetail hunting to 400 yards. I currently have a Model 7 with a 9.125” twist that shoots 95gr NBT well out of a 20” barrel getting 2850 with my hand load.

For a a hunter, in my situation what do I gain from buying a 8” twist Tikka 243 or rebarreling my Model 7 to a 6CM? It would be easier to just cut down my current model 7. But then I’m not buying a new Tikka to join the cool kid club.

I guess the best way to sum this up is what is the true benefit of building a gun to shoot the 108eldm when I already have one that shoots the 95grNBT?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I would say cut down what you have and run it if it shoots what you want at the distance you want.
 
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LOL, I love my wildcats and don’t mind my fireforming. For fun, I have been imagining ways that you could be sizing brass in your dies that is harder than your 7 steps. I never have to wear ear plugs or replace my barrel, Hahha

I am definitely not saying it is a huge deal to fireform brass. I do my 6 BRA… but those steps are a sizable investment for an extra chamber and forming brass.

I get that you are trying to get people over the fear. And, I support that. Wildcats make for fun tinkering, but it’s not easier.

I just was amused picturing a guy going all Wiley Coyote sizing brass.

And you still have to resize after fire forming anyway :D
 

Harvey_NW

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This is why, the cost of buying something like Sherman brass that is so worth it to me. Just him having brass and dies makes his wildcats more popular.

Buying brass rhst is three times as expensive really is no big deal if you are going to be a wildcatter.
You just have to hope he doesn't withhold information from you while you buy his very expensive components and build a rifle, lie to you about the solution, and then take the easy route that botches your entire investment and makes everything obsolete..
 
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lak2004

lak2004

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You just have to hope he doesn't withhold information from you while you buy his very expensive components and build a rifle, lie to you about the solution, and then take the easy route that botches your entire investment and makes everything obsolete..
Agree. My buddy has had quite a few issues with a 7SS including brass and die issues. Not wanting to get into that.
 

hereinaz

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You just have to hope he doesn't withhold information from you while you buy his very expensive components and build a rifle, lie to you about the solution, and then take the easy route that botches your entire investment and makes everything obsolete..

Very true, a few people feel like they got burned. It does suck if you counted on something precisely that didn’t happen. You always take your chances with a wildcat and small company, things happen. It is a good reminder.

You must have gotten into a very specific pickle. Sucks to feel like that. Good that people hear your story. I must be missing something cause I can’t see how your entire investment is botched, though.

I am not aware of any cartridge that couldn’t burn out the rifle barrel if chambered and built. Admittedly I haven’t followed all the cartridges he has offered or the changes.

I shrugged off the changes he had to make with brass/chambers. My rifles shoot. It had no change or affect on my ability to shoot my rifles. I personally know of 4 first gen 7 SS that are still killing along with 3 25 SST and 2 6.5 SS. I can buy and shoot the new brass if needed. I even got a new barrel with the new chamber and have used old brass and dies. So far so good.

Someone buying new can get the updated stuff.

Again, sorry for your situation. If I can help I will. I know some smiths who have built a lot. Feel free to PM.
 

hereinaz

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Agree. My buddy has had quite a few issues with a 7SS including brass and die issues. Not wanting to get into that.
Strange, I have had no problems among several rifles, batches of brass and dies. I hear about problems but haven’t sorted out exactly what is going on.

Except pushing them too fast. There is a tendency among us to push it too hard, and I have backed off pressure and solved it. That is a problem among Sherman shooter, that the velocities are on the too optimistic side. Same thing happens on optimistic numbers from big companies too.

I just went back to basic load development and my speed ended a little lower.
 
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lak2004

lak2004

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Strange, I have had no problems among several rifles, batches of brass and dies. I hear about problems but haven’t sorted out exactly what is going on.

Except pushing them too fast. There is a tendency among us to push it too hard, and I have backed off pressure and solved it. That is a problem among Sherman shooter, that the velocities are on the too optimistic side. Same thing happens on optimistic numbers from big companies too.

I just went back to basic load development and my speed ended a little lower.
I know he resolved it, I think honestly he was lacking information/experience but got it figured out. The gun works and shoots great to my knowledge and like you say chit happens across the board.
 

Harvey_NW

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You must have gotten into a very specific pickle. Sucks to feel like that. Good that people hear your story. I must be missing something cause I can’t see how your entire investment is botched, though.
I'm just salty about how he handled it, it was a specific pickle indeed.

My first full custom build, went with 7 Max because of the SAUM popularity and the convenience of his components being available. He knew the brass manufacturer made a dimension change (shrunk the web area by .003" if I remember correctly) and blamed it on Gunwerks having a contract with them and causing the change because of clickers in their chambers.

Regardless, instead of notifying customers and keeping them updated, he withheld that info and continued to sell brass that was grossly undersized for his chambers, and told people to fireform with a light load to "harden the case head", and then go forth with loading. Ultimately the web stretched and primer pockets held for maybe 2 firings, and he finally came out and admitted it after I posted a bunch of pictures of dimensions on physical pieces to his facebook page asking questions as to why.

At that point he notified the page he was shrinking the reamers to match brass (B reamer), all components became obsolete. You were left with how many firings you were able to get out of his headstamps, or finding and forming Norma 7 SAUM brass, lol!

I'm not a big wildcatter but if so it will be with components from a known manufacturer and with a tried and true cartridges only. Lesson learned.
 
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