6.5 PRC Lightweight Backcountry Rifle

[Benjblt]

Here is a link to a recoil calculator, that takes a lot of those factors into consideration.

ShootersCalculator.com | Recoil Calculator

An online calculator that calculates the recoil energy, impulse, and velocity of a firearm according to the firearm's weight, powder charge, bullet weight, and bullet muzzle velocity.

shooterscalculator.com

Awesome. Thanks!

 

[Nicaburns]

What you are describing (Ability to change LOP etc.) would make the savage ultralite a perfect contender except for the barrel length. It is odd to me that they went with a 24" barrel for the 6.5prc and a 22" barrel for the 7prc but I won't argue given how mine shoots.
[I swapped to the savage after running about 350 rounds through a .308 Waypoint 2020 and just deciding I wanted to go lighter and a flatter caliber. The bonus is it kicks less and shoots even better.]

 

[SDHNTR]

You think I'd really save some? I wouldn't really even know where to start. I have install a few triggers but not much past that.

One rifle that seems to be close to what I want was the X-bolt Micro Midas and it comes with butt pad spacers. Not exactly custom but allows me to adjust for my son as he grows. I'm only 5' 7" so I like a 13" lop myself. I think I'm still leaning toward a creedmoor for shootability.

No, I meant save more money so you can do it properly from the start. No mass produced rifle will rival what you can put together yourself.

 

[Benjblt]

What you are describing (Ability to change LOP etc.) would make the savage ultralite a perfect contender except for the barrel length. It is odd to me that they went with a 24" barrel for the 6.5prc and a 22" barrel for the 7prc but I won't argue given how mine shoots.
[I swapped to the savage after running about 350 rounds through a .308 Waypoint 2020 and just deciding I wanted to go lighter and a flatter caliber. The bonus is it kicks less and shoots even better.]

I've looked at this one before https://www.sportsmans.com/shooting.../savage-arms-lightweight-storm-rifle/p/p58787.

Sent from my SM-F711U using Tapatalk

 

[Greenhorn]

My vote is to spend a little more and go Seekins Element in 6.5prc. Currently my goto everything hunting rifle at 7lbs flat when topped w/ Schmidt PMII 10X42.

 

[sndmn11]

My vote is to spend a little more and go Seekins Element in 6.5prc. Currently my goto everything hunting rifle at 7lbs flat when topped w/ Schmidt PMII 10X42.
View attachment 585644

That's probably the biggest Rokslide bull in the past two yeas.

 

[Nicaburns]

I've looked at this one before https://www.sportsmans.com/shooting.../savage-arms-lightweight-storm-rifle/p/p58787.

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I am referring to the Proof research CF barreled version which can be had for about a grand.

Savage Arms 110 UltraLite 6.5 PRC 2+1 24' Carbon Fiber Wrapped Barrel Black Melonite Rec Gray AccuStock with AccuFit 57583

<p>Savage teamed up with PROOF Research once again to craft a barrel specific for a purpose driven firearm. At 6 pounds and under, the 110 Ultralite is designed to combat elevation and elements while maintaining the performance of a factory blueprinted Savage 110 action. The carbon fiber wrapped...

www.familyfirearms.com

Not the fanciest by far and the barrel is 24" but they shoot lights out.

 

[hereinaz]

Decide what you want the bullet to do after it leaves the muzzle. JBM is a ballistic calculator online.

Then, you can pick the cartridge. Between 26 and 20 inches, most all cartridges lose about 25 fps plus or minus for every inch you cut off.

A 6.5 prc will always be about the same fps faster than a 6.5 cm with the same barrel lengths and apples/apples on ammo specs, say Hornady 140gr match ammo for both.

You can trade higher recoil and cut off 4 or more inches if you go with a PRC over a CM and still be faster.

 

[Benjblt]

Save some extra and build it the way you want from the ground up. You have specific needs/wants and are not going to find them in a factory rifle. Plus, the two you mentioned are known gambles on quality. Do it right the first time. No one will put the same care and attention to detail into the job that you yourself will! Buy a good receiver, prefit barrel, trigger, stock and bottom metal. If you know what end of the screwdriver to hold you can DIY.

So I like this idea the only thing is I have a tight timeframe. Measure 114 here in Oregon might be moving forward again in September and it will be impossible, or a big hassle to buy a firearm. What portion of a build is considered the firearm on a bolt action? The action itselft, right? I'm not sure how that works. I'm thinking I could just buy the action and then slowly piece it together.

 

[NSI]

So I like this idea the only thing is I have a tight timeframe. Measure 114 here in Oregon might be moving forward again in September and it will be impossible, or a big hassle to buy a firearm. What portion of a build is considered the firearm on a bolt action? The action itselft, right? I'm not sure how that works. I'm thinking I could just buy the action and then slowly piece it together.

You could buy a Tikka now (about 30 oz action weight), keep or sell the barrel for about 150 bucks, and sell the stock for about 100 bucks.

Replacement stocks which are that lightweight pretty much point you at the $400 blemished Stocky's VG2 and a rattle can paint job. You'll love it. I just did a Tikka at 5 pounds flat using a similar stock, a wildcat.

-J

 

[hereinaz]

So I like this idea the only thing is I have a tight timeframe. Measure 114 here in Oregon might be moving forward again in September and it will be impossible, or a big hassle to buy a firearm. What portion of a build is considered the firearm on a bolt action? The action itselft, right? I'm not sure how that works. I'm thinking I could just buy the action and then slowly piece it together.

The serialized part is what gets transferred as a firearm per federal law through an FFL. The action is serialized for bolt actions. Not sure what Oregon law will be, but buying an action right now would work.

If you buy an Origin or ARC action, you can easily exchange bolt heads from .223 to magnum.

 

[SDHNTR]

So I like this idea the only thing is I have a tight timeframe. Measure 114 here in Oregon might be moving forward again in September and it will be impossible, or a big hassle to buy a firearm. What portion of a build is considered the firearm on a bolt action? The action itselft, right? I'm not sure how that works. I'm thinking I could just buy the action and then slowly piece it together.

You are correct

 

[Benjblt]

You could buy a Tikka now (about 30 oz action weight), keep or sell the barrel for about 150 bucks, and sell the stock for about 100 bucks.

Replacement stocks which are that lightweight pretty much point you at the $400 blemished Stocky's VG2 and a rattle can paint job. You'll love it. I just did a Tikka at 5 pounds flat using a similar stock, a wildcat.

-J

What barrel? Is there anything wrong with the one they come with? Wouldn't chopping off 4" of a superlite get me there? I don't think the fluting starts for about 5 or 6".

 

[Benjblt]

The serialized part is what gets transferred as a firearm per federal law through an FFL. The action is serialized for bolt actions. Not sure what Oregon law will be, but buying an action right now would work.

If you buy an Origin or ARC action, you can easily exchange bolt heads from .223 to magnum

I really like this idea.

 

[SDHNTR]

You can also buy Tikka actions alone at JA Outdoors.

 

[Benjblt]

You are correct

So now you have me watching videos like this but I don't have vice and all the tools required. . but more importantly. . I don't think I trust myself to not screw something up. The install of the action to the barrel is what scares me the most.

Can you buy the action with the barrel already installed?

 

[NSI]

What barrel? Is there anything wrong with the one they come with? Wouldn't chopping off 4" of a superlite get me there? I don't think the fluting starts for about 5 or 6".

Absolutely nothing wrong with factory barrels in terms of durability and accuracy. They tend to be about 100fps slow, which might be annoying to you if you chop it a ton. But that's absolutely a viable and cost effective strategy. You can always buy a pre-fit later.

What are your muzzle device / suppressor laws over there?

-J

 

[NSI]

So now you have me watching videos like this but I don't have vice and all the tools required. . but more importantly. . I don't think I trust myself to not screw something up. The install of the action to the barrel is what scares me the most.

Can you buy the action with the barrel already installed?

It's dead simple, I'm happy to talk you through it and send you tools.

-J

 

[SDHNTR]

So now you have me watching videos like this but I don't have vice and all the tools required. . but more importantly. . I don't think I trust myself to not screw something up. The install of the action to the barrel is what scares me the most.

Can you buy the action with the barrel already installed?

You certainly can, but it’s also noting to be intimidated by. And buying a barrelled action might limit you choices in length and contour.

 

[Benjblt]

Absolutely nothing wrong with factory barrels in terms of durability and accuracy. They tend to be about 100fps slow, which might be annoying to you if you chop it a ton. But that's absolutely a viable and cost effective strategy. You can always buy a pre-fit later.

What are your muzzle device / suppressor laws over there?

-J

We can own suppressors. I don't have plans for one now. I don't really like brakes.