3" Vanes

[Swampcruiser]

^^This is exactly why I stopped using SK300- I thought I could hear them taking off from my bow, I just got a new Reign6 and when we were setting it up in the shop others noticed it so we set up a phone and recorded- it audible vs something like FFP360's on my other arrows. I dont know if its the increase in speed I got from the new bow or what? I cant figure out why,seems as stiff as they are and lower profile they would be more quiet.
I want to try some Max Stealths but they are FOC killers

 

[Brendan]

They must stick better to a wrap than the bare shaft.

The SK's are the only vanes I ever hear as the arrow leaves the bow. Everything else is silent to me.

^^This is exactly why I stopped using SK300- I thought I could hear them taking off from my bow, I just got a new Reign6 and when we were setting it up in the shop others noticed it so we set up a phone and recorded- it audible vs something like FFP360's on my other arrows.

What kind of arrow speeds are you guys shooting? Are you fletching them straight, offset, helical? In my head I'm wondering if I can set up a microphone on a tripod down range to do some recording myself - or just send a buddy to hide behind the 30 yard target

 

[Kilboars]

I'm using the AAE EP-26 vanes now for better clearance and a 1 degree off set.
They do seem much quieter.

Switched from the max hunter and max pro.





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[5MilesBack]

What kind of arrow speeds are you guys shooting? Are you fletching them straight, offset, helical?

I'm shooting them right around 290fps, fletched with a helical. I don't find them to be all that stiff as others claim, pretty flexible if you ask me. As far as down range goes......every arrow and vane combo is going to make noise down range. I've sat behind 50 yard targets butts while buddies were shooting at 60, and all arrows are loud coming in.

 

[Beendare]

I like the idea of the lower profile vanes and if I ever go back to my compound will switch from blazers to the bohning or other low pro versions

 

[kicker338]

Found out yesterday something about the blazer heat vanes put one vane on a little cockeyed and you'le get lousy flight. I can get away with a regular blazer vane put on a little cockeyed and the arrow will still shoot pretty good. Not so with the heat vanes, put one on a little cockeyed the other day and figured just shoot it and it will shoot ok like the blazers. Didn't work, arrow flew like a dog wagging it's tail.

 

[Swampcruiser]

I'm shooting 280 and I had those Injexions built by Jerry at South Shore with a 2 degree helical (SK300). Im liking all I'm reading about the AAE EP26 and Stealths but I'm dying to try 4 fletch as well smaller fusions as well-- I'm just going to be steering mechanicals this year with no elk on the menu.

 

[theleo91386]

Found out yesterday something about the blazer heat vanes put one vane on a little cockeyed and you'le get lousy flight. I can get away with a regular blazer vane put on a little cockeyed and the arrow will still shoot pretty good. Not so with the heat vanes, put one on a little cockeyed the other day and figured just shoot it and it will shoot ok like the blazers. Didn't work, arrow flew like a dog wagging it's tail.

Makes you wonder how much less of an effect the broadhead has when they're all on the rite way.

 

[theleo91386]

I'm shooting 280 and I had those Injexions built by Jerry at South Shore with a 2 degree helical (SK300). Im liking all I'm reading about the AAE EP26 and Stealths but I'm dying to try 4 fletch as well smaller fusions as well-- I'm just going to be steering mechanicals this year with no elk on the menu.

All I shoot is 4 fletch, it allows me to nock my arrow without looking down and worrying about where the cock vane is at.

 

[bmart2622]

I use SK 300s as well and they stick like they are welded on and probably the most durable vane I have ever used.

 

[5MilesBack]

I use SK 300s as well and they stick like they are welded on and probably the most durable vane I have ever used.

It is unreal how there can be two opinions on the exact same products that are so worlds apart. It's funny because I had always heard how great these vanes were so I had Jerry at SSAS fix me up a 1/2 doz arrows with the SK200's and 1/2 doz with the SK300's. The very first arrow I shot went through the target.......which happens a lot to me. No big deal. But it took two of the vanes off and the third was so wrinkled up and deformed that I took it off as well. The lack of adhesion and the wrinkling was all new to me because none of my other vanes do that. Maybe Jerry needs to get a new welder???

And since then I've shot a lot of the vanes off the arrows shooting groups. Yes, I shoot 3-4 arrow groups because most of my shooting is at 40+. Normally I will shoot through vanes......where there is an intact hole through the vane, but the vanes stay on. Not so with these SK's.

 

[theleo91386]

It is unreal how there can be two opinions on the exact same products that are so worlds apart. It's funny because I had always heard how great these vanes were so I had Jerry at SSAS fix me up a 1/2 doz arrows with the SK200's and 1/2 doz with the SK300's. The very first arrow I shot went through the target.......which happens a lot to me. No big deal. But it took two of the vanes off and the third was so wrinkled up and deformed that I took it off as well. The lack of adhesion and the wrinkling was all new to me because none of my other vanes do that. Maybe Jerry needs to get a new welder???
QUOTE]
Maybe there's a difference in glue being used or vane prep? The one thing I've loved about my Vane Tecs is that they've never required any vane prep or special glue to get them to stick.

 

[5MilesBack]

Maybe there's a difference in glue being used or vane prep? The one thing I've loved about my Vane Tecs is that they've never required any vane prep or special glue to get them to stick.

Maybe. But Jerry has been doing this for a long time and I'm willing to bet has fletched up more dozens of arrows with these vanes than the number of arrows fletched up with these by every single member on this forum. So I would think he would know if he was using the wrong glue. I do know that he uses primer before fletching these.

Every other vane I do no prep at all.......glue and go and they're good. Some of the newer QS's are easier to rip off, but the ones I have from 5+ years ago wouldn't come off using pliers. The base would stay stuck and the vane would rip off the base.

Just goes to show that everyone needs to do their own testing, as everyone has different standards and expectations.

 

[bmart2622]

I do prep the shafts before I fletch them, I use a scotch brite pad to scuff the shaft and get all the old residue off, wipe with alcohol, then use Zing primer and Loktite gel glue.

 

[bowtech3dhunter]

I didn't even know there was a primer. I just scrape off the old vane, clean the shaft with rubbing alcohol and then reglue, but that's how I've been fletching arrows for 25 years. I've never used a primer for any vane.


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[doverpack12]

It is unreal how there can be two opinions on the exact same products that are so worlds apart. It's funny because I had always heard how great these vanes were so I had Jerry at SSAS fix me up a 1/2 doz arrows with the SK200's and 1/2 doz with the SK300's. The very first arrow I shot went through the target.......which happens a lot to me. No big deal. But it took two of the vanes off and the third was so wrinkled up and deformed that I took it off as well. The lack of adhesion and the wrinkling was all new to me because none of my other vanes do that. Maybe Jerry needs to get a new welder???

And since then I've shot a lot of the vanes off the arrows shooting groups. Yes, I shoot 3-4 arrow groups because most of my shooting is at 40+. Normally I will shoot through vanes......where there is an intact hole through the vane, but the vanes stay on. Not so with these SK's.

5 Miles that is not how any of the flex fletch vanes performed for me at all during the 3-4 years I shot them. Actually it's almost exactly opposite of my experiences. Generally they never deformed going through a target or if accidentally left resting against each other in a quiver or bow box. I would shoot through them but never blow them off unless I hit them right at the vane base and took my glue dab off or tore my wrap. Did SSA tip and tail the vanes since it sounds like you generally fletch your own arrows other than these?

 

[blackovis]

My favorite vane for hunting has been the Max Stealth for the last couple seasons. They give great stability, minimal wind drift, and are very durable. I shoot Gold Tip and have had insanely good adhesion directly to the shaft with all the AAE Max series vanes. I clean the carbon with AAE Max wipes and also the base of every vane and give it just enough time for both to dry (1-2 minutes seems sufficient) I then use the Max Bond glue bead down the vane. Quick wipe with my finger to smooth out the glue and fletch it up. One thing I have always done that also helps immensely is tipping and tailing each vane and cleaning up the sides with a cue tip before the glue dries. It may not be correct but it seems to work very well. I honestly cannot remember ever losing a vane or having one peel since I started doing them this way.

 

[5MilesBack]

Did SSA tip and tail the vanes since it sounds like you generally fletch your own arrows other than these?

What do you mean "tip and tail" the vanes?

Ya, I always do my own......but heard that you needed the primer for the Flex Fletch vanes. And since I was ordering up some shafts, I figured I'd let Jerry go ahead and fletch them too just to try these vanes. They look good......just haven't performed as well as they look. When I fletch......I don't even clean with alcohol or anything. I just scrape the vanes and glue off the shafts, wipe with a towel, and glue them up. Never had any issues this way.

I have been getting the best flight I've gotten out of any vanes with the 2.1" Q2i Fusion Xii vanes......even with fixed BH's. For fixed I run them 4-fletch. I was just at the range this morning, and shot an arrow with these Q2i vanes through a pressed fiberboard target butt there, and the vanes are all still the same shape and stuck to the shafts. It was one of these same target butts that took the SK's off the arrow when it passed through.

 

[blackovis]

Tip and tail is simply putting a bead of glue on the front and rear portion of the vane once it is glued to the shaft. Helps keep it from lifting and according some folks also makes it cut through the air better

 

[5MilesBack]

Tip and tail is simply putting a bead of glue on the front and rear portion of the vane once it is glued to the shaft. Helps keep it from lifting and according some folks also makes it cut through the air better

When I fletch, there's always excess glue that I wipe off the front and back with a q-tip. I don't add any extra. With my OCD, those beads of glue would bug me.