.280 AI under a grand?

[Newtosavage]

You can get 2,900 easily in a 7mm08 and 140 Accubonds with Big Game or Reloder 16. E-tips should get there too.

I can get 2850 out of my 20" Howa, but I'm wanting a rifle with a little more "oomph," hence the .280 ai

 

[Kimber7man]

I can get 2850 out of my 20" Howa, but I'm wanting a rifle with a little more "oomph," hence the .280 ai

 

[Spoke'n'fly]

Thanks. I appreciate that. I have read some horror stories about the Kimber Hunters that have given me concern. Glad to hear they are good rifles.

I think people expect too much out of a light weight barrel. I glass bedded mine and it shoots sub MOA with hand loads. I doesn’t like to be heated up, but this is a mountain gun. Does all I ask for a 6lb scoped rifle. Great in the hand and easy in the pack. Makes my Christensen Mesa feel like a tank


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[NJDiverDan]

Savage 110 Hunter. I think they go for around $700. Or spend a couple hundred more and get the 110 ultralight with the proof carbon barrel. I just picked up the 110 ultralight in .280 AI, scoping it this week and will start load work up.

 

[Newtosavage]

Anyone seen the Savage Ultralight (with the PR carbon barrel) in .280ai under a grand anywhere?

 

[Newtosavage]

Savage 110 Hunter. I think they go for around $700. Or spend a couple hundred more and get the 110 ultralight with the proof carbon barrel. I just picked up the 110 ultralight in .280 AI, scoping it this week and will start load work up.

I'm looking pretty closely at that one. It checks a lot of boxes for me. Wish they had gone with the stainless lightweight receiver instead of blued though.

 

[NJDiverDan]

I like the SS as well, but think the the black SS looks really good with the proof barrel and the accu stock.

I have not seem them for less than $1150 anywhere. For a while you could not really find them and the price was creeping up. My local gun shop got one in and I immediately shot down there to pick it up. Seems like inventories are starting to pick up, but I don't think enough to drive the price down yet.

What I like about it is I am going to pick up a matching 110 hunter in .223 for a practice rifle. Other than weight, it will have the same trigger and stock geometry.

 

[Newtosavage]

I'm very familiar with Savage rifles, having owned about 10 now and having tore apart and built about 4. I do like the versatility of the platform and I already have all the tools to swap barrels.

I am leaning hard toward a Lightweight Storm in .270, and then pulling the factory barrel and installing a .280 ai barrel. I have never had a problem with the Savage Accutrigger and have shot many of my best groups with that trigger. The new stocks are an upgrade from the old tupperware stocks, but still are not in the same league as my Bansner stock on my Howa Alpine, which is what has me hesitating. I don't know of any premium lightweight stocks for Savage rifles. And by lightweight, I mean under 28 oz.

 

[Loper]

I removed 8.5 oz of epoxy from the stock and grip With some gun oil, screwdriver, and drill. Which reduced the rifle weight to 5lbs 2oz.

.

I don’t want to hijack this thread, but I’m curious how you did this? Im assuming you drilled a bunch of holes in the stock. Any specific areas aside from the grip?

I’m also assuming the screw driver was as flat head used for scraping the barrel channel?

Do you think you removed the perfect amount of material? Any areas you think you may have removed too much resulting in a significant loss in rigidity?

 

[MuleyFever]

I don’t want to hijack this thread, but I’m curious how you did this? Im assuming you drilled a bunch of holes in the stock. Any specific areas aside from the grip?

I’m also assuming the screw driver was as flat head used for scraping the barrel channel?

Do you think you removed the perfect amount of material? Any areas you think you may have removed too much resulting in a significant loss in rigidity?

Kimber Hunter in 6.5 Creedmoor - Let the Project Begin!

After some debating between buying a used Kimber Montana in the $800 and change range or a new Hunter I finally decided to go for the latter chambered in 6.5 Creedmoor. They only weigh 7 or so ounces more, but at the $645 shipped I bought mine for (from KYGunCo) I figured I would have money left...

www.rokslide.com

 

[Newtosavage]

Kimber Hunter in 6.5 Creedmoor - Let the Project Begin!

After some debating between buying a used Kimber Montana in the $800 and change range or a new Hunter I finally decided to go for the latter chambered in 6.5 Creedmoor. They only weigh 7 or so ounces more, but at the $645 shipped I bought mine for (from KYGunCo) I figured I would have money left...

www.rokslide.com

Good info there. I don't mind you sharing that at all.

 

[HNTR918]

I don’t want to hijack this thread, but I’m curious how you did this? Im assuming you drilled a bunch of holes in the stock. Any specific areas aside from the grip?

I’m also assuming the screw driver was as flat head used for scraping the barrel channel?

Do you think you removed the perfect amount of material? Any areas you think you may have removed too much resulting in a significant loss in rigidity?

I used a Philips screw driver to take the two screws holding the recoil pad out. I poured Hoppe's gun oil in the stock. Used a flat head to pry around the edges between the gel and the stock plastic. Then took a 1/2'' drill and drilled as deep as i could into the gel and then pulled it all out as one chunck.

For the grip, I took a flat head and pryed up the grip cap and repeated the same process.

They both came out in large single pieces. I super glued the grip cap back on, and put the recoil pad back on with 2 screws.

 

[Loper]

Kimber Hunter in 6.5 Creedmoor - Let the Project Begin!

After some debating between buying a used Kimber Montana in the $800 and change range or a new Hunter I finally decided to go for the latter chambered in 6.5 Creedmoor. They only weigh 7 or so ounces more, but at the $645 shipped I bought mine for (from KYGunCo) I figured I would have money left...

www.rokslide.com

Thank you!

I used a Philips screw driver to take the two screws holding the recoil pad out. I poured Hoppe's gun oil in the stock. Used a flat head to pry around the edges between the gel and the stock plastic. Then took a 1/2'' drill and drilled as deep as i could into the gel and then pulled it all out as one chunck.

For the grip, I took a flat head and pryed up the grip cap and repeated the same process.

They both came out in large single pieces. I super glued the grip cap back on, and put the recoil pad back on with 2 screws.

Not what I was expecting, but this makes sense. Thanks for sharing.