.223 for bear, mountain goat, deer, elk, and moose.

I have not become a Kool-Aid drinker, but I am willing to tasted test.


1) Tikka T3X in 223
2) Starline Brass + 69g TMk bullets

Anything else I need to test the Kool-Aid?
View attachment 779661
I have Tallley Rings. For now, it has a Leupold VX-Freedom. It will do until I decide what kind of scope I really want for it.
Start at the start.

It’s truly an easy journey.

One simply needs to open their mind and objectively consider what’s important.
 
Start at the start.

It’s truly an easy journey.

One simply needs to open their mind and objectively consider what’s important.
Phrased differently… the magic is in the hit probability and the terminal effects. While the latter won’t change, both Talleys and the VX are stacking the deck against reliable hits. Wish you luck on the experiment, keep us posted.

-J
 
Last edited:
Phrased differently… the magic is in the hit probability and the terminal effects. While the latter won’t change, both Talleys and the VX are stacking the deck against reliable hits. Wish you luck on the experiment, keep us posted.

-J

Help me understand, are you suggesting that Talley mounts lead to unreliability?




P
 
Help me understand, are you suggesting that Talley mounts lead to unreliability?




P
I’m not NSI, but I have stayed at a Holiday Inn Express.

Short answer, yes. Best bet is to remove the Talley Lightweights, bash them with a hammer, drive down the highway at 70mph and throw the pieces out the window at 15 minute intervals while on the way to the LGS to buy any number of vastly superior products.
While you have the hammer out, give that Leupold some love too, and start with glass that works.
 
Thanks for the prompt responses.

My experience conflicts with these statements.




P
Mine did too. On both fronts and on multiple rifles, until it didn’t. Game of statistics, we’re all out here trying to make choices that minimize the chance of failure, knowing it can’t be eliminated. My reaction was similar to yours. Just don’t want to see you lose game over it, that’s all.

-J
 
The biggest flaw with Talley is I relies solely on the shear strength( not what a screw is designed for) of the screws to the action.
There is not forward/rearward or lateral lug to take the brunt of forces like recoil or bumps and drops.


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If you are saying that Talleys are unreliable you are over thinking the whole thing.
The biggest flaw with Talley is I relies solely on the shear strength( not what a screw is designed for) of the screws to the action.
There is not forward/rearward or lateral lug to take the brunt of forces like recoil or bumps and drops.


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Isn't that the case for every mounting system that relies on weaver type mounting blocks for standard rings?? Just 2 screws holding the block.
 
If you are saying that Talleys are unreliable you are over thinking the whole thing.

Isn't that the case for every mounting system that relies on weaver type mounting blocks for standard rings?? Just 2 screws holding the block.

. Yea all those suck, not my fault those people did poor engineering and people still buy their
bad designs.

A good rail will have recoil pins or lugs recoil and bumps then the screws just fasten to receiver.
Or just buy a tikka.


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If you are saying that Talleys are unreliable you are over thinking the whole thing.
The only overthinking that goes on, is thinking that they are a robust system that won’t crack under normal use.

A lot of people (myself included) have had multiple sets crack because we just didn’t want to give up on the aesthetics of the rings. Same as putting a Leupold on, because “it just looks right”.

“Looks right” is a far cry from “works right” and there are a lot of systems out there that simply work right no matter what.

On dozens of rifles now I haven’t cracked a single make of ANY other ring, but I’ve had 3 sets of Talleys go down personally. I’ve had zero Bushnell LRHS/LRTS/DMR or Arken’s lose zero or fail to track, but I’ve had 4 or 5 Leupolds shit the bed. I still have a couple of them mounted, but they aren’t on serious rifles and it won’t be a surprise when they fail to be zeroed after a ride in the truck.
 
I just posted this in the mono’s thread, but it seems relevant.


I used to shoot moly’d 168 TTSX out of a 300 RUM at 3450fps as my moose and elk rifle. I killed a lot of bulls in the rut at around 100 yards or less, and could typically count on losing less than 5lbs of meat even on square broadside shots through shoulders.
Shooting elk that close though, they typically got shot more than once because they would still be kicking and flopping when I walked up to them.

Now I use a 223AI with 88gr ELD m’s.
85% less recoil, 75% less powder, 48% less bullet, to get 200% of the wound channel for 85% of the penetration length. And I shoot them half as many times because they are dead faster.
 
You can kill alot of things with a .223 but that doesn't mean it's a good idea. I'd keep the .44 rifle, it would work a whole lot better.
When people publicly comment on a book obviously without ever bothering to read it, it’s never a good look.
 
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