Did you have to do any “fitting”?
I did, but very little. The overall height of the bow was just a touch higher than the raceways for it cut into the grip, so it wasn't freely moving, and required an ounce or two of pressure to move. If you hold the frame nose-down, with just the trigger inserted, it should easily fall forward on its own weight after you press it back and let go. If a 1911/2011 trigger is physically too heavy, or there's too much friction in its movement, or the sear-spring returning the trigger is too light, you can get hammer-follow after a shot. So, it seemed necessary to fit it, even if the pressure needed to move it was so light.
This was a super easy fitting - just took the height of the tabs on top of the bow down a little with a cratex bit. I didn't want there to be any vertical slop, so it took a few light passes on each side and checking each time, but overall it took less than 5 minutes to get that part of the fitting done. Maybe another 30 minutes to get the takeup and overtravel adjusted, given the need to reassemble and disassemble several times.
The quality of the trigger is excellent, btw - the metal in the bow is substantial, looks like machined steel rather than a stamping, and is fairly smooth, despite some visible machining marks. Various chamfering cuts on it as well, along with two set-screws on the front instead of just one. A lot of thought and quality went into these triggers - probably the nicest I've seen, though I don't have a large sample-size of ones being made the last few years.
Photos of the tabs on top of the bow that were polished down a bit:
