Timberline001
WKR
Not sure what you meant by that?That's because you must be the ultimate hunter. Over and out. lol.
Not sure what you meant by that?That's because you must be the ultimate hunter. Over and out. lol.
Honest inquiry here:
How many people spot for their hunting partner with a reticle optic? It’s always through the binos or spotter, rarely if ever with an etched reticle.
I’ve spent plenty of range time where everyone is on the same system with the same ruler in their face and it works, but that isn’t reality in the field hunting.
if you’re looking thru your bino's or spotter, how are you calling corrections to the shooter if they don’t see their miss?
Regardless, MIL or MOA, why the need to try and convert anything to a linear measurement when there is a ruler in your scope?This particular situation - my buddy's shot appeared to be good vertically (dead on pretty much). Told him that and then I called out how many feet he was ahead of it (which was about two feet). I let my friend try to figure out the rest as the bear walked off.
Same scenario when my group shoots rock chucks and rats. Will call out miss vertically and horizontally based on feet since we are all using MOA. Obviously, if you don't see your shot, you are only as good as your spotter at that point. I am usually able to see my shot...but not always. There are a few friends that I would not use or count on as a spotter because they have poor judgement in measuring by eye. Same friends that if their GPS goes down I am going to have to call search and rescue.
Swaro rangę binos (no reticle).
Same point, regardless of units, what else can a spotter say to a shooter other than approximate feet/inches through binoculars? I’m sure as hell not gonna convert it to angular, but I’d be happy to hear “1 foot in front of the chest”, then use that as a reference on the reticle to offset from where I was and send again.Regardless, MIL or MOA, why the need to try and convert anything to a linear measurement when there is a ruler in your scope?
I think we are on the same page. Someone says you hit a foot in front of his chest, you measure in your scope how far that was from your aim point, move your point of aim based on that and shoot. No need to do any sort of conversion of inches/feet to mils/moa.Same point, regardless of units, what else can a spotter say to a shooter other than approximate feet/inches through binoculars? I’m sure as hell not gonna convert it to angular, but I’d be happy to hear “1 foot in front of the chest”, then use that as a reference on the reticle to offset from where I was and send again.
(If you meant to say angular then we’re on the same page already)
Totally agree.I think we are on the same page. Someone says you hit a foot in front of his chest, you measure in your scope how far that was from your aim point, move your point of aim based on that and shoot. No need to do any sort of conversion of inches/feet to mils/moa.
Most Mil guys in the US shoot in yards as well. Doesn't matter which you use for target distance.I have moa scopes. That is all I’ve ever tried. I prefer 2 focal and I like to range and dial to the exact yardage. I don’t do holdovers. I think moa makes sense to me because of years of archery thinking and shooting in yards. I always make a tape out of white electrical tape for my turret. I put the yardage on there. So it’s easy just to range and dial to the exact yardage.
Yea I guess the 1 inch at 100 yards approximately makes sense in my brain for using moa. Everton says mils are better but I’ve never used themMost Mil guys in the US shoot in yards as well. Doesn't matter which you use for target distance.
The funny part is that the 1” at 100 is only useful for most folks when sighting in at a fixed distance. For everything else Mils using quick drop and your wind number completely stomps using MOA for speed. You can actually calculate your drop and drift from 300-600 yards/meters in your head in 2 seconds without a ballistic solver. If you haven’t tried these, do a search on here for Form’s posts on the topic or listen to this podcast.Yea I guess the 1 inch at 100 yards approximately makes sense in my brain for using moa. Everton says mils are better but I’ve never used them
Yea makes sense. I don’t shoot competitions. Just hunting. But I’ve heard mils are faster. That is intriguingThe funny part is that the 1” at 100 is only useful for most folks when sighting in at a fixed distance. For everything else Mils using quick drop and your wind number completely stomps using MOA for speed. You can actually calculate your drop and drift from 300-600 yards/meters in your head in 2 seconds without a ballistic solver. If you haven’t tried these, do a search on here for Form’s posts on the topic or listen to this podcast.
If you know your distance and wind speed, you can do it in 2 seconds for most guns. You also have to know your density altitude based on temp and elevation.Yea makes sense. I don’t shoot competitions. Just hunting. But I’ve heard mils are faster. That is intriguing
So a guy has to know the wind speed right? So if I take time to know the mph of wind. I have time To know what moa have to hold
For.
Or is mils gonna be faster in that regard?
Yea gotcha. As it is now I range my target and dial my elevation to the range. I hold for windage. I have a wind meter to know wind and dial moa. But if I can do it faster with mils. Than maybe I need to explore that.If you know your distance and wind speed, you can do it in 2 seconds for most guns. You also have to know your density altitude based on temp and elevation.
A average gun (6.5cm, 270, etc. with 0.4 BC bullets) will have a correction factor on -2 off the hundred for drop and add the 10s on the other side of the decimal. So at 580 yards the drop will be roughly 3.8 Mils. For guns that are faster or slower, you may have to apply an additional correction.
For my 18” 223 and primary load, all I have to remember is -2+2 for my drops. If my distance is 430, the drop is the hundreds minus 2 and add 2 to the 10s on the decimal = 2.5 Mils. That works for 250-600 yards at my normal altitude and temp. As altitude and temp change or range change, my correction factor may change a bit in either direction.
For wind, figure out the wind speed that pushes your bullet 0.1 mil per hundred yards. Generally this is equivalent to 10 times the BC of your bullet, but you need to verify for your conditions. The bullet I am using drifts about 0.1 Mils per hundred yards from a 4 mph full value crosswind from 100-600 yards. 2 mph is half that base drift number. 6 mph is 1.5 times that base number. A 16 mph quartering wind is twice my base number.
So I can basically get a call within 0.1 mils without a ballistic solver in my head faster than you can pull out your phone. This isn’t my creation. It came from that podcast and Form’s posts. But it works for most guns and loads. I do find the corrections on high speed magnums to get a bit more challenging, but it’s still way faster than MOA.
Knowing your distance is easy with modern rangefinders and you can even use a Mil reticle to estimate distance. Wind speed takes practice and paying attention to your terrain. You can get a wind meter to measure wind speed where you are, but it might be totally different between you and the target based on your terrain.