.001, .003, .006 Arrows Technically Why?

wildernessmaster

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I have been reading up on the arrow tolerances and if there really are practical differences in match (typically .001), standard (typically .003) and economy (typically .006) arrows.

Tons of sites and forum posts go back and forth on this issue with the opinions varying from "definitely makes a huge difference beyond 40 yards" to "makes no difference - the average shooter can not shoot to .001".

There are also a lot of posts about cut off both ends of your arrow and you will get a (close to) .001. I actually found a site that had a great article where they went from bare new arrows to cut and fully built arrows with .001's and .006's and wow the actual differences were stunning small. In the original pre built arrow the batch the tester had (12 each) the -006's were actually tighter to spec than the .001's.

All that said... When I think about it from an engineering perspective it seems to boil down pretty simple... The difference between a .001 and a .006 is math. the 6 is going to potentially (note I say potentially because it is the worst case tolerance difference) inject 6 times more variance than the .001.

What does that mean pragmatically? Well if a .001 arrow difference injects a 1/2 of being off target at 40 yards, then the .006 will have 3 inches of being off target - WORST CASE. Again Worst case. Since most archers would take a 3 inch group at 40 yards, I think that means its a moot difference.

Before someone does some wonky math and says, no wait that would be 18 inch group if your .001 group is 3 inches... Wrong. For it to mutate into an 18 inch group would mean every arrow would have to be off from every arrow (in the exact same way) by the tolerance. Given we build and tune our own arrows that would be very highly unlikely. More so, remember that the tolerances are worst case - and if a manufacturer is making every arrow worst case - they won't be in business long.

Taking this out further... So even at 80 yards the .001 would be off by an inch (extrapolating the angle) and the .006 would be off by 6 inches. On most animals this is tolerable. Again, I think if most archers (particularly bow hunters) can shoot 6 inch groups at 80 yards they would be happy.

Now once again before anyone jumps the string...I know in a bow system the arrow tolerance is not the only error injected into the system and that some of the down range accuracy issues are compounded issues (arrow, bow, string, cam...).

Given the one factor arrow tolerance, is the value of any .003 or .001 arrow really that much? Typically you see a 25-40% price difference... Or am I missing something beyond the basic math?
 

Brendan

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There is no formula that will tell you the difference because it depends on too many factors. But, for a good shooter, fixed blade broadheads, and a tuned bow, and especially for those with longer draw lengths and longer arrows, and shooting at longer range: yes it makes a difference in group size and consistency.

If you can't shoot that well, or tune, or have spine issues, or are a short draw archer, or are just shooting at deer at 20 yards: you're not going to notice.

If you want to test it: Get a hooter shooter and go to town. Or, you would need to fletch up two sets of arrows (.001 and .006) and test side by side to see if it makes a difference for you. That doesn't mean though that holds for someone else.
 
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Won't tell one bit of difference with field points.

Put fixed blades on the front and it will show at distance. The straightness turns into an out of alignment as the shaft is spinning down range with steering front and rear.


Might not matter to everyone, but I feel it's worth my money.
 

5MilesBack

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Generally "straightness" is not the only issue between .001" and .006" arrows. When you pay up for the .001" arrows you are also trying to get a set of arrows that are all spine matched for consistency........which IMO has a bigger effect in down range accuracy. I have no issues whatsoever determining which of my arrows are out of spec........just from shooting them. And a RAM spine tester confirms that every time. But I also have a 32 1/2"+ draw length, so the tighter the specs the more consistent the arrows shoot.
 

KyleR1985

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Also of note - the 1” difference versus 6” difference would mean 2” groups, or 12” groups. You’re calculating for radius not diameter.

but as was said above. Most people most of the time aren’t going to notice. But for long draw long distance with fixed blades, it shows up.
 

N2TRKYS

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I’ve shot 27.5” and 29” arrows and I haven’t noticed a lick of difference. I don’t waste my money on buying the over hyped .001 arrows.

I only cut my arrows from one side. There’s zero reason to cut from both ends.
 
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Also, who shoots a 1/2” group at 40 yards, nobody. I get the comparison but it’s minimized to a standard of impossibility to make the difference of .001-.006 seem too minimal.
 

jmez

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"Well if a .001 arrow difference injects a 1/2 of being off target at 40 yards, then the .006 will have 3 inches of being off target - WORST CASE."

Where did the 1/2 come from?

Sent from my moto g power using Tapatalk
 
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Nebraska
Food for thought. If your cutting your arrows you will end up straighter than advertised. Most arrows come around 31-32". If your cutting 4" off your arrow cut 2" from both sides of the arrow. Most of your .006 arrows will end up .003 or better if you do this. The average Joe would never be able to know the straightness of his arrow from shooting it. What is 10x more important than straightness is spine consistency. Having a consistent spine will ensure ea arrow reacts the exact same coming out of the bow. Even a beginner shooter would be able to pick out an arrow that doesn't fly with the group when spine is the issue. Don't get caught up in paying high dollar for .001 consistency when you are cutting your arrows anyway, your throwing money in the trash can. Buy from a reputable company and you should end up with a arrows that have a tight spine tolerance.
 
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From shooting a lot of wood arrows...23/64" dia Port Orford cedar shafts (thru compounds) built up for rabbits and grouse a few decades ago...it is very worthwhile to put the straightest end of a shaft at the nock. Run-out at the leading end of the arrow is less detrimental to accuracy than at the nock end in my experience across a couple thousand shafts. Haven't shot a wood arrow in years since I don't hunt rabbits in BC.

With carbon shafts (Easton Carbon Injexions) I cut the end off with the most run-out...occasionally cut from both ends, then install the nock in the straightest end. Arrow decals are reversed on some of the shafts but that doesn't bother me. I test run-out on a dial indicator/roller bearing aluminum arrow straightener, but you can do the same by eye-balling a rotating shaft on a set of rollers, crossed nails or even rolling the shaft across a kitchen counter or table saw table.

I agree that consistent spine is critical to good accuracy. I had some Gold Tip XT Hunters years ago (my first carbons) that I had to sort out which shot well and which ended up in the crappy arrow flight pile to shoot at grouse in trees. Haven't had that issue with the Carbon Injexions.

I can't answer your question on .001, .003 or .006 tolerance shafts other than to say it does make a difference.
 
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My thinking is that it most likely doesn't make a difference until it does. I have hunted with a bow for long enough to have killed animals by a matter of an inch and lost animals by a matter of an inch. My thinking is buy the best I can afford and I make it a priority to buy the nicest I can for my bow. I always buy match grade because I know it doesn't hurt my chances.

The goal for me and my equipment always...is for me to be the weakest part of the setup. I want to go into the field knowing that if I miss or make a mistake, that it is on me, not my equipment.
 

Jimbob

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I guess that’s for you to decide. I haven’t seen any difference in accuracy between the .001 and the .006, though.

I was seriously asking. You have already laughed at another member's decision so it doesn't seem like you are up for others deciding.

I am genuinely interested in this because I would purchase cheaper arrows if it truly doesn't matter.

How far have you tested the .006 with broadheads? what kind of groups were able to keep?
 

wapitibob

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Whether it matters is a personal thing and what you're shooting at. If you're shooting a Deer at 40 yards it probably isn't going to make much difference to you. I shoot at dots more than I hunt and 6 vs 1 straightness can be seen on the targets. If you need to save some money buy the .003's.
 

N2TRKYS

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I was seriously asking. You have already laughed at another member's decision so it doesn't seem like you are up for others deciding.

I am genuinely interested in this because I would purchase cheaper arrows if it truly doesn't matter.

How far have you tested the .006 with broadheads? what kind of groups were able to keep?

No worries, man. Lol. I was being serious with my response
I don’t do alot of the stuff that some say that you have to do. All I’m saying is that you don’t have to spend the extra money on something, if you don’t want to.

I don’t shoot animals past 50 yards, so I only practice out to 60 yards. I’m usually shooting 3” or less at 50 yards. It’s not great, but good enough for me.

If you notice a difference for you, then shoot what you’re more accurate with. Even if it’s against what the crowd tells you.
 
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N2TRKYS

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Whether it matters is a personal thing and what you're shooting at. If you're shooting a Deer at 40 yards it probably isn't going to make much difference to you. I shoot at dots more than I hunt and 6 vs 1 straightness can be seen on the targets. If you need to save some money buy the .003's.

I like drawing quarter sized dots on my targets. Alot better for me than what’s offered from the factory.
 
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