The whack a mole pullers work. I gave myself tendonitis pulling about 150 rounds once, so either just do a few at a time or get something like a collet style, or a puller I've been meaning to purchase, grip n pull. Looks pretty slick and is supposed to not leave any marks on the bullets.
Sent...
If you go to Dillons website, on the caliber conversion page, you can get the new chart.
https://dilloncdn.com/magento/charts/xl750-conversion-chart.pdf
According to this, the 6.5 creedmoor uses a different shell holder than 270 and 280
Sent from my SM-S918U using Tapatalk
If no one's testing or sample size satisfies your curiosity, and you want to know if there's an actual difference, why don't you test it yourself. Shoot 30 round test strings at various seating depths and see if what your ballisticians claim is actually true.
Sure it's a lot of components, but...
https://bergerbullets.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/COAL.pdf
An article written by Bryan litz. He's the chief ballistician at Berger and applied ballistics. He regularly shoots and wins the king of two miles. He knows a thing or two about bullets and bullet design
I have seen a difference...
I'd go with 48.4. between 48.2,48.4, and 48.6 there's almost no poi(point of impact) shift. The middle node gives you the most margin for error. That's likely a velocity plateau, but it's impossible to tell without a Chrono
Sent from my SM-S918U using Tapatalk
The harbor freight rock tumblers are a great cheap way to get into tumbling.
I bet steel wool works great too though
Sent from my SM-S918U using Tapatalk
I don't think 18 would be much of a problem. My concern would be making sure you get complete powder burn, and with heavier bullets you usually end up with a slower burning powder.
Sent from my SM-G996U using Tapatalk
While beam scales might have graduations that stop at .1 increments, if you're patient and look, it's pretty easy to get that down to +/- .05 or less. It's all about reading the space in between the lines, and comes with experience
Sent from my SM-G996U using Tapatalk
Yeah, annealing and tumbling wouldn't cause that, but if you're not using a temperature indicating paint like tempilaq, you should. I think the bigger bushing will be your best. I personally prefer to measure for bushings using an empty case and measuring the wall thickness and actually...
Generally that's caused by having the die body screwed in too far and the die starts the crimp while it's still trying to seat the bullet. Unscrew the die 2 to 3 turns, readjust the seating stem and try again.
Sent from my SM-G996U using Tapatalk
Unless you're loading for competition, you'll be fine loading mixed brass. Trim, size, etc as you normally would, just be mindful that you might want to shy away from max loads as the different brass thicknesses can cause variations in pressure
Sent from my SM-G996U using Tapatalk
If feeding from a mag is important, start at the longest length that allows and work from there. I generally start at 5 thou off and test from there
Sent from my SM-G996U using Tapatalk
It will be fine. Since it's well below the annealing temp, the brass is still fine. I often leave mine in the oven for 2 hours or more
Sent from my SM-G996U using Tapatalk
Honestly, I don't think the rj120 has the resolution required for reloading. .01 grams will be about .2 grains, which means you could have charges+/- about .15 grains with a total possible difference of .3. I'd go with the 123
Sent from my SM-G996U using Tapatalk
I haven't used it for hunting. I originally got the rifle to use for elr when I lived in Wyoming and had a really really long shooting range. I've since moved to the western side of Washington state and well... I no longer have a range that goes on for 2 and a half miles. If I were to use it for...
I haven't used the 225, but I load my 300 rum with 230 a tips and rl33. I believe I tried retumbo but I ended up using rl33. I'd love to get my hands on n570 though.
Sent from my SM-G996U using Tapatalk