Your opinion on spine aligning arrows

[Beendare]

In your experience, are the "spine aligned" arrows not actually spine aligned? I've read on different forums that spine aligned arrows are often/usually not actually aligned so I'm trying to figure out if spending the $ on "spine aligned" arrows is worth it or not

Spine align is a waste of time, IMO

Best practice is to number your arrows and log your groups at longer range.

If you have an arrow that is consistently not grouping, then twist the nok or reflect if necessary.

Now, you have to be able to shoot well enough to determine if its actually the arrow.....

 

[Bump79]

Spine align is a waste of time, IMO

Best practice is to number your arrows and log your groups at longer range.

If you have an arrow that is consistently not grouping, then twist the nok or reflect if necessary.

Now, you have to be able to shoot well enough to determine if its actually the arrow.....

Seconded. I've done this multiple times now and ended up selling my spine tester. I noticed zero gain in accuracy for quite a bit of time.

If you don't have a super long draw 30"+ then you're better off just buying two .003" dozen arrows, numbering them and culling those that don't fly after a twist or two of the nock. You'll probably only cull a few anyway.

There's so many gimmicks in archery. The reality is you're the problem 95% of the time..

 

[Terrapin]

I think it was a bigger deal back when I designed the spine tester twenty years ago. Arrows back then had huge swings in spine around the diameter. Couple this with large fixed blade broadheads, and cams with significant nock travel and spine indexing paid large dividends.

Now days with far better cam designs & significantly better arrows it doesn’t seem to be as big of a deal.

I haven’t been shooting competitively for a couple years (rotator cuff), so take it with a grain of salt, but I think indexing nocks on completed arrows using a shooting machine resulted in the best outcome.


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[Billy Goat]

In your experience, are the "spine aligned" arrows not actually spine aligned? I've read on different forums that spine aligned arrows are often/usually not actually aligned so I'm trying to figure out if spending the $ on "spine aligned" arrows is worth it or not

For what I remember, the marks were generally in relation to the break in spine. Just that I didn't always find that to be what dictated where the nock would want to be positioned for the arrow to always react the same.

 

[whitetailhunter1]

Spine align is a waste of time, IMO

Best practice is to number your arrows and log your groups at longer range.

If you have an arrow that is consistently not grouping, then twist the nok or reflect if necessary.

Now, you have to be able to shoot well enough to determine if its actually the arrow.....

Is nock tuning done with a bare shaft? I'm assuming if you twist the nock and find a better nock location one would then want to refletch appropriately?

 

[whitetailhunter1]

Seconded. I've done this multiple times now and ended up selling my spine tester. I noticed zero gain in accuracy for quite a bit of time.

If you don't have a super long draw 30"+ then you're better off just buying two .003" dozen arrows, numbering them and culling those that don't fly after a twist or two of the nock. You'll probably only cull a few anyway.

There's so many gimmicks in archery. The reality is you're the problem 95% of the time..

I'm 100% sure I'm the majority of the problem . Just wanting to understand what are the main things to consider and what are the minor things.

 

[Tilzbow]

Is nock tuning done with a bare shaft? I'm assuming if you twist the nock and find a better nock location one would then want to refletch appropriately?

Nock tune with a broadhead. Use the same color for all fletch. Use a nock with an index. Mark the top vane with a marker for three fletch. I mark the “cock” vane with an arrow pointing up in the top center of the vane. With that little make and an index nock it’s easy to nock the arrow correctly. Alternatively fletch with four fletch then vane orientation doesn’t matter as far as clearance but could mess the tune if you nock the arrow different so for four fletch I also mark a vane with a marker to indicate the “cock”. I’ve been using the same color fletch for at least 30 years and it’s also much easier to tell if your arrow flight is good since you don’t have that one different color of vane that makes a spinning arrow look like it’s wobbling.

 

[Billy Goat]

Is nock tuning done with a bare shaft? I'm assuming if you twist the nock and find a better nock location one would then want to refletch appropriately?

I use to nock tune all my bareshafts, then fletch.

I think that mostly worked.


I just fletch everything and then nock tune now.
Fletching after is introducing something else, might as well adjust everything for how you will shoot them.

 

[peterk123]

I paper tune at 6 feet and 9 feet. Then I set my sights. I will also walk back tune, which helps me get the sights just right. Then I see how my broadhead shoots, starting at 20 yards, then out to 40. I tweak the sights as needed to get the BH as close to my FP as possible. If everything was setup correctly in the beginning, I shouldn't have to move anything.

I'm far from an expert, my bow is primarily a hunting tool. I set it and forget it. So my method may be all wrong, but it appears to work. At the end of the day, if I can get my BH to cooperate with my FP, I'm happy. And, if the BH is flying good then I know my arrow build is good.

I don't bareshaft tune. I think you need perfect, repeatable form to do it. I'm just not that good. I found myself chasing paper tears when I tried it years ago. That's why I paper tune fetched. You still need good consistent form, but I find it a little more forgiving. I'd be curious to hear the thoughts of people here are really good with the bow if my process and assumptions are way off.

 

[dtrkyman]

I like to nock tune bare shafts, otherwise as stated number your arrows and keep track of fliers, if I get a bad arrow I put an X on each vane, then I rotate the nock and see if it starts to group.

Tim Gillingham has a good video on paper tuning each arrow, he brakes it down nicely!


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