Your hunt setup

Blackcow

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Oh you definitely NEED back up limbs. I by limbs I mean 2 pair. BW ebony, one pair more white, the other more black. You don’t want them just sitting around for just in case, so you may as well get another riser. Black g10? Mmm nope. Phenolic and be ebony no red. You could take a spill, man.
 

Sapcut

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Yea that would be a more efficient option. I would be much more tempted if they would make longbow limbs to fit the PSA riser. I have inquired more than once. Roger there says they just can’t do it… for some reason I just can’t comprehend. I’ve also inquired about heavier limbs they may have built for a remorseful buyer. But nooooo.
 

Sapcut

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Oh you definitely NEED back up limbs. I by limbs I mean 2 pair. BW ebony, one pair more white, the other more black. You don’t want them just sitting around for just in case, so you may as well get another riser. Black g10? Mmm nope. Phenolic and be ebony no red. You could take a spill, man.
Ahhh. I see how that works. Gracious, for that degree of coinage I could get a bull bar for my Land Cruiser, of which I’ve debated.
 
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Grabwad

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I’m currently falling into the rabbit hole…. What kind of speeds are you guys seeing with those Uukha limbs?

I have (2) sets ordered that I plan to put on a VPA riser..
 

Grabwad

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I try to tune all my setups to be between 10-11 gpp. I find that I can switch between bows easily due to the arrows having similar trajectory.

My hunting setup is a 19” Satori riser w/ medium Uukhas that are roughly #52 at my draw length. My arrow is about 530 grains (225 up front)


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This will be the bow and arrow specs I’m planning on using.. any idea what speeds you getting? What model Uukha?
 

Blackcow

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I had to dig and take a screenshot of one of my old posts…8F4F95D9-FFCA-407F-A6D7-49706E37B4D5.jpeg
Didn’t keep this particular combo long, don’t remember what I changed to, but backed the bolts out more and went up in arrow weight to get in the 170s.
 
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Beendare

Beendare

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Oh man….I feel your pain Blackcow. …you nailed it.…and you are right on the money.

I would take a photo of all my aracery stuff..but frankly I’m embarrassed…and don’t have a wide angle lens- grin.

And you nailed in on that bow of mine with the Dryad riser and Vx limbs…its a winner. Killed a bunch of hogs, deer, javelina Coues…heck I blew 2 arrows through a moose at 30y with it. Why change?

Yesterday I was swapping limbs, like a madman…Thankfully my wife hasn’t seen the archery stuff strewn all over my office yet as when she does I will get one of those special, “ What the heck are you doing” looks. .

I did check the draw weight more accurately on my setups and that dryad/vx is only 45 maybe 46#. Its so light it doesn’t feel right to me anymore.

So in my swapping, I realize I only have 2 sets of limbs that get me over 50# (only- Ha!) So the dumbass that I am, I ordered 2 more sets of limbs; Selengha 50’s ( about 55# at my DL) and the Buck trail 55#- probably closer to 60#

As you ILF guys know, a limb on a ilf riser will come in lower than expected as with all of my Uukhas, I have to back the bottom limb bold out almost 2 turns for even BH.
So my Selenghas rated 45@28” on a 19” riser even at my 30”+ DL are right at 49#.

Anyway, my plan to have this dialed just had a little setback. The silver lining for a lucky someone will be me selling these excess 38-40# limbs on the AT classifieds.

FWIW, if anyone has any Uukhas that are too heavy for them and you want to swap…let me know…I have a pretty good assortment ( groan)
 
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Beendare

Beendare

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I will say that after all of this, my goal is to have one bow and a backup…then another lighter setup as I’m no spring chicken ( that one is pretty obvious at this point- grin)

FWIW, the trajectory of the heavier limbs (50-55#) with 10gpp vs my 46# at 11.5gpp is significant…shocking really…so there is a common sense motivation to all of this…..

at least thats what I’m telling myself. Grin
 
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cck311

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Based on what your implying, if you wanted to use the heavier bow and it not feel too stout to draw, just simply draw the bow often and get stronger. Over and over every time you enter the room, draw it, draw it, draw it. It will become less stout quickly. It is the same as any other exercise where the objective is to get stronger. And if it’s not giving you muscle resistance than you are getting weaker. That is why guys keep dropping bow weight. They want an easy to draw bow. Then that easy bow gets harder and harder because they get weaker and weaker. You have to exercise to just keep the strength you have. That is very common with bowholders.
I've got a couple heavier bows I can draw well enough, but I dont enjoy shooting them as much and I have plenty of confidence in my 47 pounder. One thing I don't understand is why so many people make it out like drawing heavy bows is some big feat of strength. Strength does matter to some degree, but I find proper form is way more important. Once a guy learns how to keep the tension out of his string hand and arm and learns the correct movement to load the draw in the correct muscles those heavier weight bows feel so much easier to draw without you really getting significantly stronger. I feel like when people act like it is some big strength training thing that you work up to like increasing your bench press or your deadlift they are off the mark. To me it really seems like more of a fine motor control thing than a brute strength thing. Strength matters but it is a smaller piece of the puzzle than people give it credit for. Not trying to be argumentative or anything just giving my 2 cents.
 

Sapcut

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I've got a couple heavier bows I can draw well enough, but I dont enjoy shooting them as much and I have plenty of confidence in my 47 pounder. One thing I don't understand is why so many people make it out like drawing heavy bows is some big feat of strength. Strength does matter to some degree, but I find proper form is way more important.
I tend to agree only if after a bit of experience of building strength and muscle memory in your trad bow drawing muscles (which are different than compound bow muscle activity). But I agree that it certainly doesn’t take a big muscular body to efficiently shoot a heavier than average bow.

But it certainly takes more strength to have proper form drawing and shooting a 65+# trad bow than it does to draw and shoot a 47#er with proper form. Hence the reason so many guys shoot what is more comfortable and enjoyable.

The lack of strength in the upper body, shoulders, back, arms and fingers has everything to do with why most trad bow folks do not shoot a 65+ traditional bows.

What I find amusing is it seems lots of light weight trad shooters shot 65-70# compound bows in the past. But now that they don’t have the strength to draw a 65-70# trad bow, the 43.5@26 is “all you need and anyone drawing any heavier is trying to be macho”. Never do I hear….”This shoulder injury I got at work is killing me. But If I had the strength to draw a heavy trad bow I would for obvious reasons. After all that is exactly why I pulled a 72# High Country Supreme back in the day” 😂
 

cck311

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I tend to agree only if after a bit of experience of building strength and muscle memory in your trad bow drawing muscles (which are different than compound bow muscle activity). But I agree that it certainly doesn’t take a big muscular body to efficiently shoot a heavier than average bow.

But it certainly takes more strength to have proper form drawing and shooting a 65+# trad bow than it does to draw and shoot a 47#er with proper form. Hence the reason so many guys shoot what is more comfortable and enjoyable.

The lack of strength in the upper body, shoulders, back, arms and fingers has everything to do with why most trad bow folks do not shoot a 65+ traditional bows.

What I find amusing is it seems lots of light weight trad shooters shot 65-70# compound bows in the past. But now that they don’t have the strength to draw a 65-70# trad bow, the 43.5@26 is “all you need and anyone drawing any heavier is trying to be macho”. Never do I hear….”This shoulder injury I got at work is killing me. But If I had the strength to draw a heavy trad bow I would for obvious reasons. After all that is exactly why I pulled a 72# High Country Supreme back in the day” 😂
I have never even attempted to shoot a trad bow over 55 pounds. I likely don't have the strength to shoot 65-70 pounds but unless I'm going after cape buff or something (I would love to but not bloody likely considering the cost) I don't see the need. For the elk, muleys, black bear that I hunt I have no real need to go much over 50. I understand some guys like to challenge themselves and shoot the heavy weights as some type of athletic pursuit but that's not my style of archery. You're right guys do shoot much heavier draw weights with compounds but that whole 80 percent letoff thing kinda makes it an apples and oranges comparison.
 

mattflint

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I think Im shooting my bb warf with medium N3 limbs. Kind of want some heavier limbs as Im right about 50 with my current mediums from my barebow set up. I think Im going to start using the warf for 3d rather than my gt29 so as to be more acclimated to it
 
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Toelke Chinook 51# at 28"
545 grain gold tip. Not sure on broadhead. Super sharp 200grn 2 blade is all I know.
Thought maybe a little more arrow weight would be nice. But ended up with a great tune right there so we'll go with it👍
Wishing a good season to all! Looks like some great setups out there.
 
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I'm shooting an ASL, 50@29, selway quiver, full length woodies with ace super express heads. It was dialed in time for deer last year and won't be changing any time soon, not before I break enough arrows to buy some more. I honestly hate tinkering, I just want a solid setup I can trust in the woods.
 
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Beendare

Beendare

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So Im testing one setup- it comes out just a little later than I wanted and I have heavier limbs coming. 49# 64” recurve, arrows are all 340’s cut 31 3/8”
B65C6198-F191-4E55-ABE4-A6E43E2BF5C1.jpeg
25yd bareshaft test. All the same arrows, spine, wise, a couple axis and a couple center shots but with different point weights.
Red line connects 266g PW, yellow is 195, blue is 175g
 
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Beendare

Beendare

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Same 49# same shafts same 25y
A9030188-FD39-41D3-9B75-4FD782DD1E60.jpeg
I shot this combination multiple times. This is one of the better groups, a little bit better than my average.

Red line is 195g, the 3 arrows in the blue circle are 175g, 50g insert, 125g point

Multiple tests prove this out in group testing. I also shot 150 grain, not pictured, and those grouped pretty good, but are a little stiff.
If I was hunting with this setup, the 175g would be it.

This set up really likes the 175 grains. My hunting weight bow of between 50 and 52 pounds will probably like the 150g better.

It gets a little tricky, testing these different combinations because I find myself adjusting my gap for the heavier arrow.

I will say this, if all of these arrows are fletched, the difference is sometimes hard to discern. It really takes a bear shaft to tell you how good these things are flying.

One thing I noticed today is that I need to clean up my release. I’m lifting my hand on some shots and when I do that it really makes the bear shaft go low.
 
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GLB

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The new bow came in a few days ago. Got it pretty close to tune with these groups at 25 yards. Time will tell if this is my go to bow this year. It has a great start so far. I have options!
 

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Blackcow

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central Az.
I’ll play. Black eagle renegade, full length .350. 50gr. Hit, 15gr 2020( or 2018 don’t remember) footer, 150gr field tip. This was my last favorite setup, had great luck and what I’m going to stick with. Or close. Going up 25 is a hair weak but between brace height and maybe a shim of vinyl notebook cover should be easy to bring in. 6EFC1603-70D7-40C7-9AFD-ACF13198B08C.jpeg
These and .400 gold tip traditional with some shenanigans involved are just going to be “my set up” from now on I think. Since I have a worse problem with arrow buying than bow buying, I’m going to be unloading a bunch of shafts so as not to be tempted! Anyone need like 8 dz Beman centershots? Sirius? Black eagles? Eastons? Lol
 
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