X-bolt threading/adapters for suppressors

Hey OP, what did you end up doing--cut the barrel or use an adapter? I have a an early model Hell's Canyon Speed in 30-06 and am trying to make the same decision.
I went with the Hughes precision adapter. I’ve not yet been able to shoot the rifle using this adapter, as I just got my suppressor. However, from the eye test, it seems to align well
 
I’m on the hunt for my very first suppressor. So far, my success stats are much like they are when I hunt animals - way too low.

The issue: I have a Browning X-Bolt in 6.8 Western and the barrel is threaded at M13x .75…..which doesn’t fit any cans that I’ve found.

I have my eye on a number of cans that come standard with 5/8x24 and I’ve read a few varying opinions about using an adaptor effectively. I talked to one local shop and they recommended this adapter from Hughes Precision: https://hughesprecision.com/product...converter-browning-x-bolt-blued-steel-sku159/

So, my questions:

Has anyone else found themselves in the same predicament and what did you do?

Any feedback on using an adaptor like the one linked above? How effective is it? Why or why shouldn’t I use that?

Thanks in advance
why not just chop it at the threads and get it rethreaded?
 
This thread was awesome, I have an Xbolt and had the exact same question. The barrel is already a 24" 7 PRC and am adapter plus a can will make this thing long! Still satisfied with your adapter solution?
 
I am! The Hughes precision adapter was cheap and it’s worked just fine for me. When I’m at the range, I just am sure to check it with an alignment rod before shooting (haven’t had any alignment issues yet) and I check tightness after every few shots
 
why not just chop it at the threads and get it rethreaded?

Why spend the money to get a perfectly good barrel rethreaded?

Hub adapters allow users to swap their cans to fit just about any thread pitch or mounting system.

My Nomad started out as a Keymo can, but I switched it to direct thread. I can switch it back if I want.
 
Why spend the money to get a perfectly good barrel rethreaded?

Hub adapters allow users to swap their cans to fit just about any thread pitch or mounting system.

My Nomad started out as a Keymo can, but I switched it to direct thread. I can switch it back if I want.
I'm not sure about over there, but here it's about $120 to get done, so cost isn't really an issue, and a gunsmith's recrown will be better than the standard mass-produced job.

The adapters can work, but it's also one more piece that can go wrong, also can chop a few inches off the end to keep the balance much nicer at the sametime.
 
This thread was awesome, I have an Xbolt and had the exact same question. The barrel is already a 24" 7 PRC and am adapter plus a can will make this thing long! Still satisfied with your adapter solution?
I use that adapter on my x-bolt with the Jolene S suppressor. The adapter adds less than 1/4" to the length. I might cut the barrel down the road, but it has been great for now. I just make sure its all tight.
 
I'm not sure about over there, but here it's about $120 to get done, so cost isn't really an issue, and a gunsmith's recrown will be better than the standard mass-produced job.

The adapters can work, but it's also one more piece that can go wrong, also can chop a few inches off the end to keep the balance much nicer at the sametime.
The direct thread adapters are no different than the direct thread adapter already used on the suppressor. My SilencerCo Evo shipped with both 5/8-24 and 1/2-28 direct thread adapters.

I could post a picture of the two SilencerCo adapters that came with my can and the SilencerCo direct thread adapter I ordered for the Browning. They are virtually identical. They were probably made on the same machines by the same people. Why would one be better than the other?

If someone wants to chop, thread and recrown barrel, that is fine. I had a gunsmith do it to a 280AI barrel I thought was too heavy and long. Having a second adapter isn't a great reason reason to do it.
 
The direct thread adapters are no different than the direct thread adapter already used on the suppressor. My SilencerCo Evo shipped with both 5/8-24 and 1/2-28 direct thread adapters.

I could post a picture of the two SilencerCo adapters that came with my can and the SilencerCo direct thread adapter I ordered for the Browning. They are virtually identical. They were probably made on the same machines by the same people. Why would one be better than the other?

If someone wants to chop, thread and recrown barrel, that is fine. I had a gunsmith do it to a 280AI barrel I thought was too heavy and long. Having a second adapter isn't a great reason reason to do it.
I am going to see what it’s like not cutting barrel. I have read the x bolt is difficult to remove barrel from action for machine work. It is a 26” 300 win mag.
 
What is an alignment rod? Where do you get them? Thanks
An alignment rod is a tool you can use to make sure the suppressor is properly aligned with your bore, once it’s screwed on. It gives peace of mind to avoid baffle strikes - especially when using an adapter.

Is it needed? Probably not. It’s likely overkill. But I picked mine up for about $35 from accuracy solutions, so it was worth it to me.
 
An alignment rod is a tool you can use to make sure the suppressor is properly aligned with your bore, once it’s screwed on. It gives peace of mind to avoid baffle strikes - especially when using an adapter.

Is it needed? Probably not. It’s likely overkill. But I picked mine up for about $35 from accuracy solutions, so it was worth it to me.
If it’s screwed on, what could you do if alignment was off?
 
If it’s screwed on, what could you do if alignment was off?
Don’t shoot it.

Sometimes the suppressor can loosen after a few shots. Try tightening it and check alignment. If you can’t achieve alignment, take it to a gunsmith.

Again, unlikely to be an issue. I have used my
Hughes precision adapter while checking alignment and haven’t had a single issue yet.
 
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