Fair point. Action length is obviously not an issue when shooting. I also understand there are many advantages to the one-size-fits-all action length, especially for aftermarket stocks and chassis.
Either I don’t know the true meaning of the term “bolt slop” (entirely possible ) or neither my Tikka Super Varmint or Savage Model 12 LRPV has much if any. Then again neither are lower cost “budget” rifles like the Savage Axis line. And the Tikka Super Varmint certainly doesn’t have a “ Rubbermaid cheap-ass stock “ either.
No offense intended, but you appear to have way too much time on your hands. Dismissing reliability for meaningless minutia seems like cutting your hand off because of a hangnail. Guns are just tools, pick something that works and go outside.
I’ve used s Jewel trigger on a custom Model 7 for lots of years and lots of miles in every condition. Never cleaned it and never had an issue. Must have been lucky.
My thoughts exactly… started with one tikka… currently have 4, all 4 are shooting moa or sub moa 10 shot groups with factory ammo. Minor alterations (trigger springs) vert grips and butt pad. One will get rebarrelled to 6cm and maybe a second. Inversely I have two far more expensive CA rem 700 clones. One drives tacks and the other is alright… but for 3x the cost it shoots no better than my 700$ tikka. I wish I knew a brand in the 700 range that would offer what tikkas do, maybe the closest is the ruger American but fit and finish is no where near the tikka.
What can I say. I like what I like. I have a pile of rifles that work for me that fit my criteria. None of them have the Tikka specific issues I avoid.
Different strokes for different folks. I cherish a good bolt lock. However, for others contemplating messing with the trigger to achieve what jjjjeremy is after, please just buy a Timney trigger for your Tikka or snag one of the dozens of lawyer-safe rifles on the market that allow you to cycle the action on safe.
I dunno, I just sold a sako s20 precision and bought a tikka upr. I think the tikka is the better rifle. Stock on the upr doesn't have that cheap plastic feel, both actions are smooth, the trigger doesn't slide in the upr but its still an adjustable, crisp trigger. And I can buy aftermarket accessories for the tikka easier. If both would just have a full length mlok rail down the center of the forend....
I just don't have any use for a bolt lock because I carry my bolt guns empty and uncocked. If it's empty and cocked I want to be able to load one without taking it off safe. I'd honestly prefer to be able to lock the bolt uncocked on an empty chamber, and the non-existant four position safety would be ideal.
Yeah man! I've got a model 112 and I have no idea how that thing shoots so dang good. It took me 170 shots before it quit copper fouling. It was rough as a cob but I don't care that thing shoots. Wonky bolt and all.
Well, they must be doing SOMETHING right at Savage. It’s interesting to me the number of posts I’ve read in which, after extensive bitching and moaning, a high percentage say something to the effect of, “ But the thing shoots so damn good! “. I have three Savage rifles, a110 Storm in .223, 93R17, and a Model 12 LRPV. I enjoy shooting all three and aside from some early mag issues with the 110 magazine (since resolved) have functioned flawlessly. Wish the bolt lift on the LRPV was a bit better but it doesn’t bother me enough to do anything about it.
Why do you need it on “safe” if it’s an empty chamber and uncocked???????
That is a good point, I would even argue that the whole point of an uncocked gun is defeated if the safety will go on.
It’s apparent you haven’t really used either of these sufficiently to evaluate the difference.
