Who's rebarreled their Savages?

Rebarreled lots of Savages, and it’d be hard to find someone with more rounds on them. Precision was always acceptable. However, Savages are money pits to modify, and you never fix the real issues with them.


$600 for a new barrel, $130-$150 for a new trigger, $300 plus for a stock... and you still have the crappiest corn cob action on the market.

Cut to the chase and get a rifle you don’t need to monkey with.

Noted. That said, I own a couple of pretty nice long guns and yet my savage 308 has been dead reliable and surpasses them in terms of accuracy. I'm not attempting to turn a tractor into a Porsche. I'm trying to turn it into a better tractor.

Cost-wise, I'm seeing ~$450 for a Shilen stainless select match bbl, new bbl nut and recoil lug, tools and gauges.
 
I guess my standards are just that much lower than yours. Savage rifles have done every job I've asked of them, but all my rifles are just hunting rifles too.

That said, 1/2-3/4 MOA isn't too shabby for a hunting rifle.

It isn’t about precision, and I’m not smack talking anyone’s rifles. Precision is almost entirely the barrel.

It’s about the whole package. Buy a $300-$400 rifle. It shoots ok to decent. It has a noodle for a stock, the trigger is usable however really should be replaced due to reliability, and the action is extremely rough. Extraction and ejection can be spotty in sand, and tend to freeze up in sleet/ice/snow.

You just end up putting more money into them than it gives you back. But the time you’re done replacing components on a Savage, you will spend more money than just buying a rifle that is good from the factory.





Noted. That said, I own a couple of pretty nice long guns and yet my savage 308 has been dead reliable and surpasses them in terms of accuracy. I'm not attempting to turn a tractor into a Porsche. I'm trying to turn it into a better tractor.

Cost-wise, I'm seeing ~$450 for a Shilen stainless select match bbl, new bbl nut and recoil lug, tools and gauges.


See above. You spent “x” amount of dollars on the Savage, then you’re going to spend $450 on a barrel, the stock is still flimsy and honestly needs to be replaced. The trigger is not great, and there is nothing to be done about the action.

You can sell the Savage for $200-$300, put all the money together and get a Tikka T3x that has an excellent barrel, one of the best actions made, an excellent trigger, a very stiff stock that does not need to be replaced, and very reliable magazine system.



Y’all do you, been there, done that. I and a bunch of buddy’s have all done the Savage mod thing.

The latest was a LWH 6.5 Creed. Shot pretty solid- around 1.2 MOA for ten rounds. Killed a few animals. Had random “flyers” when shooting from field positions. The owner hogged out the stock to free float. Thought it was fixed.
Missed an animal off of a pack. Recreated at the range and around 1 in 8-10 rounds would go high due to contact still. Hogged more out. Thought it fixed.

Practiced off of pack. Every once and a while shots are off call. Now stock is so flimsy that it contacts the barrel if any weight is applied. Bed forend to make stiffer. Think it’s fixed.

Go hunting, slip with rifle strapped to pack. Shoot at animal. Wound animal. Small rodeo ensues. Animal finally killed. Check zero. Zero is off. Find out that action can move in stock from impacts. Bed action. Think it fixed.

Go hunting. It rains/sleets. Afterwards check zero. Gun won’t fire. Trigger frozen in ice.

Rage happens. Put rifle up. Grab Tikka. No more problems.
 
It isn’t about precision, and I’m not smack talking anyone’s rifles. Precision is almost entirely the barrel.

It’s about the whole package. Buy a $300-$400 rifle. It shoots ok to decent. It has a noodle for a stock, the trigger is usable however really should be replaced due to reliability, and the action is extremely rough. Extraction and ejection can be spotty in sand, and tend to freeze up in sleet/ice/snow.

You just end up putting more money into them than it gives you back. But the time you’re done replacing components on a Savage, you will spend more money than just buying a rifle that is good from the factory.








See above. You spent “x” amount of dollars on the Savage, then you’re going to spend $450 on a barrel, the stock is still flimsy and honestly needs to be replaced. The trigger is not great, and there is nothing to be done about the action.

You can sell the Savage for $200-$300, put all the money together and get a Tikka T3x that has an excellent barrel, one of the best actions made, an excellent trigger, a very stiff stock that does not need to be replaced, and very reliable magazine system.

Funny, since my two 7mm-08's are a Savage, and a Tikka. ;)

I guess we'll have to agree to disagree on all that stuff "needing" to be done to a Savage. It doesn't need to be done but some folks want to, and that's fine. I would agree if they are trying to turn a Savage into a Tikka - just get the Tikka in the first place.

That said, I wouldn't give up my Savage because I like it, it looks good and it shoots just as good as my Tikkas do.

Personally, I'm not sure I'd say Tikka barrels are any better than Savage barrels, but that's just my experience after owning no fewer than 4 of each. They both shot 1/2-3/4 MOA once I found the right load.

A lot of folks tend to look down on Savage rifles because they want them to be something they were never intended to be. Savage rifles are advertised as inexpensive and accurate, and that's what they are. Nothing more, nothing less. I guess I appreciate that. My Savage 7mm-08 with it's walnut stock kinda reminds me of my old Winchester '94. A simple, honest, utilitarian hunting tool. I guess that appeals to me in a way.

If you stop to think about it, Savage rifles have also been innovative. How many other companies have now adopted a barrel nut and an "accutrigger"? Just about all of them. Next we'll see modular stocks on Remingtons and Rugers, I bet.

The bonus (in my mind) to Savage rifles is they are easy and fun to work on. Maybe that's also a curse. LOL
 
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I have a couple Savages. A .243 112 vlp with factory barrel and a 7mag 110 with a varmint profile ss Shilen barrel. The factory. 243 shoots in the .3's with a dialed load. Shoots most everything under an inch. The 110 7mag in stock form was about a 1 moa rifle. With the new barrel and stock it's easily half that, but I'm still working on dialing in a load.
 
I made my savage into a 6.5 Sherman. I’m really happy with it and it was a fun project.


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I rebarreled a Stevens 200. I think I bought a package with the wrench, barrel and go/nogo gauges from gun shack.com
I did that a long time ago but its been a good rifle. Its a 1-8twist 22-250ai, slings the 75gr Amaxes wonderfully.

As for the barrel length I have a Ruger mkII in 30-06 with a 22" barrel, I really enjoyed that shorter length. It just feels handy.
I also have a 24" barreled Kimber that does feel longer, but it still carries well because its so light.
Velocity has been similar between the two, the 2" longer kimber producing marginally higher numbers.
 
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