Which Fieldcraft?

I know people like pretty guns but I'd be more worried about corrosion in the bore than anywhere you can cerakote. Maybe the bore is less likely to rust for some reason?
 
I have read some reviews that the stainless on Fieldcrafts would still rust a bit? Any experience with that?


All stainless will rust- it’s stainLESS, not stainproof. Having said that I haven’t seen anything different than with any other stainless guns is the SE humid environment.


As for cerkote... other than looks I don’t get it. The only part of the barrel that actually matters is the bore, and coating doesn’t go in that.
 
So that goes back to my question- IF the Cerakote version uses a standard steel barrel? And subsequently would it be more susceptible to corrosion than a stainless barrel?
 
Between my 243 and my buddies 6.5 and 7mm-08 it’d be hard to pick a loser.

For an Alaskan rifle it’d be nice to go to sportsman’s in anchorage and pick up ammo and spend time fiddling on other stuff.

Short rifles are real nice in boats and when fishing or general outdoors Alaska behaviour.

6.5 creedmoor, with an 18” barrel would be the pick.
 
Just picked up a lightly used Fieldcraft in 3006. I've got the low Talley's with a Leopold vx3i 3.5x10x40 and there is still a fair amount of clearance. I suspect it would still work with a 44mm.

Mine weighs 5lb 7 oz naked, 6lb 6oz with rings and scope. FWIW, it has a lot of snort with 180 grain hornady super performance. Not painful, but a pretty good jump! About a 12 round session was plenty. Not sure I'd want anything bigger/hotter at that weight. That said, really like the gun - simple, very light, good balance and shoulder/points very natural for me.
 
I bought one chambered in 6.5CM, w/21” barrel, earlier this year and it is a sweet little rifle indeed. I was/am a little concerned about the reviews regarding rust issues, but so far I haven’t experienced that. I took it down to Kodiak for my annual goat hunt this year, and it performed flawlessly, although I didn’t have it around the salt, and the weather was decent for the most part, so I really didn’t put the stainless to the test. Topped with a Swaro Z3 3-9x36, it’s just a hair over 6 lbs. empty, and the lightest mountain rifle I have. Super accurate, and a dream to carry. Looking forward to chasing some sheep around with it this next fall.
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I’ve read this thread many times. I’m closer every day to getting one of these. When it happens, it’ll be a happy impulse buy!
 
I have the 21" standard in .308 , I hunt upstate NY Adirondacks. I did have a Z5 3-18 x44. since went to the Z3 . But tht Talley 1" low with the 44mm. work fine.
Regards
 
Alaska Hydrographics in Palmer will Cerakote your Fieldcraft barrel and action for $150. I was uncertain if the full length bedding would be an issue, however Paul at Ak Hydro assured me that a light coat on the bottom of the barrel would not effect the accuracy and he was right.
My Fieldcraft is the 21" 6.5 Creedmoor with a Nightforce NXS on it. The Tungsten Gray Cerakote looks great. 600 yard grouping on the Upper Susitna Wolf with Barnes LRX 127 factory ammo after the Cerakote job.

Does he do a good job? I’m looking to get one and take it to him. I’ve heard other say it needs to be re bedded.
 
A follow up- I got a 21" 308 fieldcraft that I had some problems with. I could not get it it shoot sub MOA with lighter bullets- 125gr-150gr (usually 1.5") so I sent it back to Barrett and they checked it out. They shot some factory Lapua 185grs out of it and said it was good. I loaded up some 178 eldms and did slightly better with a 0.75" group but usually 1". The recoil was a bit sharp in such a light rifle.

Then I noticed the stock had a crack in it! Once again I sent it back to Barrett. With the fieldcraft shutdown it was going to be a while for it to get fixed. I spoke to the Customer Service who has always been very helpful, and he ended up sending me a different rifle, this time in 7mm-08. (lucky since they have since discontinued it) First time shooting it with 162 eldm I was getting 0.5"! Looks like I just had bad luck with the 308, but the 7mm-08 is a shooter.

It seems to me that with the twist rates that they prefer heavy for caliber bullets, which ups the recoil in such a light rifle. 7mm-08 is noticeably less than the 308 with heavies. I'm sure the 6.5 cm would be nice to shoot.
 
I got the 24” in a 6.5 creedmoor. I’m not really a fan of the creedmoor but I got it for my wife to use for deer and antelope. The field craft is a light weight gun which is sweet for my wife to carry!
 
F
I bought one chambered in 6.5CM, w/21” barrel, earlier this year and it is a sweet little rifle indeed. I was/am a little concerned about the reviews regarding rust issues, but so far I haven’t experienced that. I took it down to Kodiak for my annual goat hunt this year, and it performed flawlessly, although I didn’t have it around the salt, and the weather was decent for the most part, so I really didn’t put the stainless to the test. Topped with a Swaro Z3 3-9x36, it’s just a hair over 6 lbs. empty, and the lightest mountain rifle I have. Super accurate, and a dream to carry. Looking forward to chasing some sheep around with it this next fall.
93241f41efe784b764862b015b8a53ea.jpg



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How do you like that Z3? I’m always looking for lightweight scope options.
 
It’s nothing fancy but it has very nice clear glass and even with the smaller objective, it still draws in plenty of light. Weighs just under 13 oz. with the Butler Creek scope caps.
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All stainless will rust- it’s stainLESS, not stainproof. Having said that I haven’t seen anything different than with any other stainless guns is the SE humid environment.


As for cerkote... other than looks I don’t get it. The only part of the barrel that actually matters is the bore, and coating doesn’t go in that.
I know I've seen you recommend nitriding before... But what about on a Fieldcraft? Would you recommend nitriding the bore to make it completely corrosion proof?
 
I know I've seen you recommend nitriding before... But what about on a Fieldcraft? Would you recommend nitriding the bore to make it completely corrosion proof?

Ehh. You could, but I haven’t seen anything rust one bad enough that it would matter.
 
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