Where to start upgrading old bow for a beginner.

[norcalrookie]

Curious of everyone’s opinion on upgrading an old bow/components or both for the best learning experience for a new shooter.

I’d like to hear from everyone here on where I should start upgrading and what will be most beneficial for me. If you are willing to provide some feedback then please read on for my current situation, setup, goals and questions.

I started shooting a bow the first of the year with a 2008 PSE Stinger. I was gifted the bow, went into my local shop and had them help me set dl and weight, replace string and build me arrows to get started.

As with any skill I understand without a doubt that focused and diligent practice is the most important part of learning. I have no qualms about shooting this bow exactly how it is right now and that I will reap the most benefit from good practice and good feedback from experienced shooters. However I’d like to make sure I’m not missing out on something that will help me shoot better or realize more potential at these early stages.

I am in no rush to hunt with a bow yet and am excited to keep practicing and developing confidence. I’d like to keep shooting as much as possible at home where I have lots of different terrain and areas to set my target up along with a 3d course about 15 minutes away from home. Long term goals are obviously to hunt, almost exclusively spot and stalk mountain hunts in Northern California but also enjoy lots of target shooting with a hunting bow setup.

Currently I’m consistently grouping in a golf ball at 20, baseball at 30 and a softballish at 40. Really the only time I have any misses outside of that is some kind of obvious break down in form that I can feel before the arrow even impacts the target i.e. a small bracing movement, not pulling through completely, rushing the release etc. I can typically remedy this on the very next shot by just refocusing my thoughts on my shot process.

So if I were to see benefit in any equipment upgrades where would it be and what would you recommend? Bow, rest, bars, sight etc.

Thanks in advance.

Here is the current setup:
2008 PSE Stinger 29”/65lbs/80%
Trophy Ridge WB rest
Truglo fixed multi pin
Small dampener
Truglo quick attach quiver
Tru fire index release and an Ultraview Hinge 2(which I prefer a lot over the index)

 

[Blowdowner]

String

 

[norcalrookie]

String

Did that also, edited above to include that. I figured that was a safe bet since it was probably 5 or 6 years old and hadn’t been touched in a long time.

 

[ResearchinStuff]

try to shoot about a thousand arrows, do the 3d course a few times, and you'll have a really good idea of what you'd like to change.

Personally, I would be resistant to putting any upgrade $ into an older bow that was working fine enough as-is. for example, a premium sight (axcel, black gold, spott hogg) is likely worth as much, if not more, than the entire bow as it sits.

 

[norcalrookie]

try to shoot about a thousand arrows, do the 3d course a few times, and you'll have a really good idea of what you'd like to change.

Personally, I would be resistant to putting any upgrade $ into an older bow that was working fine enough as-is. for example, a premium sight (axcel, black gold, spott hogg) is likely worth as much, if not more, than the entire bow as it sits.

I’m well north of 1000 arrows at this point, I’ve shot everyday except for one since I got the bow. That being said I’ve only shot the course once and 90% of my shots at home have been on open, flat, level ground with little to no wind so I probably need to fling some more down range in different scenarios to get a feel.

I’ve only shot a couple other bows one of which was 2” shorter dl than mine and one that was 1.5” longer. Both felt awfully awkward to shoot so I don’t have much reference to what I’d like it to feel like in hand.

You are correct on the valuation, you can find this bow w/ a similar setup in various classifieds for less than 200 bucks.

 

[ResearchinStuff]

So what aspects of the bow seem to be holding you back?

 

[87TT]

I would get a drop away rest like QAD or Hamskea. Keep the whisker biscuit and swap it back on if you get a new bow. especially if you plan on shooting farther.

 

[Mighty Mouse]

I don't think you'll realize much benefit from upgrading the accessories on that bow. The best bang for your buck would probably be to upgrade the bow itself. For a few hundred bucks, you could buy a bare mid-2010's flagship bow, transfer over your current accessories, and gain 30+ fps. Speed isn't everything, but it does help lessen the magnitude of your misses and extend your effective range.

 

[sndmn11]

#1 (today). Hamskea rest from either sponsor (you can probably find 10% off codes)
https://sandsarchery.com/collections/hamskea-arrow-rests/products/hamskea-primer-arrow-rest

Hamskea Primer Arrow Rest

Hamskea Primer Arrow Rest The Trinity Target Pro Micro-tune arrow rest simply outperforms all others combined! Its pedigree can be found in the world record setting Hamskea VersaRest and light weighing design elements of the Hamskea Hybrid Series arrow re

www.blackovis.com

#2 (whenever you get frustrated with your sight) Spot Hogg, Montana Black Gold, or similar sight

Save whatever accessories you take off and replace, so that when you get a new bow you can transfer the stuff to it, put the old stuff back on this bow for use as a back up.

 

[norcalrookie]

So what aspects of the bow seem to be holding you back?

Well I think that’s where I need some insight, I’m not sure exactly, maybe nothing is. I think as you mentioned earlier maybe more time behind the bow will reveal things I’d like to change. I certainly don’t think that my skill level has exceeded the capability of the setup, just making sure there is something that I could swap or change to increase the shootability of it.

 

[norcalrookie]

2 votes for a good rest so far, I can get on board with that. Any thoughts on trying out a stabilizer? My pin float decreased drastically at the beginning and has somewhat plateaued. I’m sure improving my form and engaging correct muscle groups will be the biggest contributor to that, but from what I’ve read it seems like there maybe some benefit to getting the balance of the bow dialed in.

 

[ResearchinStuff]

Longer stabilizers add stability, but are most effective if they're mounted low on the bow. Your mount is very high, so you'll probably need a ton of weight to really see a benefit. More likely, you'll spend 80-120 for zero benefit on target.

Personally, I wouldn't put a dime into your bow, and instead save up for something that will be dramatically nicer. Also, I personally won't buy used bows after having one blow up on me on the draw board during an initial functional inspection.

 

[sndmn11]

2 votes for a good rest so far, I can get on board with that. Any thoughts on trying out a stabilizer? My pin float decreased drastically at the beginning and has somewhat plateaued. I’m sure improving my form and engaging correct muscle groups will be the biggest contributor to that, but from what I’ve read it seems like there maybe some benefit to getting the balance of the bow dialed in.

Proper draw length (I think 95% of folks are too short in DL) and a timed bow will probably do far more right now than a stabilizer. Stabilizers are very easy to figure out though because any Joe or Jane at the range next to you will let you try theirs.

Lessons would be a great investment.

 

[sodaksooner]

Tough to say, but if you plan to buy a new one relatively soon, then rest, sight, stabs. All that can be transferred. This is typically my MO. I'll start working on the add ons I want and get used to them and then transfer to a new bow. Based on above I would do rest and a longer stab possibly, then a sight. As I am sure you are aware it can get expensive really quick. Also, there are a lot of people on Archery talk.com that sell lightly used bows and accessories all the time. You can save a few $$$. Go shoot some of the newer bows in archery shops as well to get a feel for what you want to look for when the time comes. It's a good site and strictly archery focused with hunting too if you aren't already over there.

 

[OR Archer]

Start with a good quality rest. Hamskea gets my vote.
Second I’d get a good stabilizer. Preferably something 10-12” that has adjustable weights.
Third a good sight. Something with 2nd and 3rd axis adjustment.
Also a good quality release that has adjustable trigger tension and travel adjustment.
All of these things can be transferred to a new bow in the future so look at these pieces as investments for future use.

 

[norcalrookie]

I really appreciate everyone’s input, exactly what I am looking for.

@sndmn11 I’m headed back to my local shop to reevaluate draw length and get some feedback on form now that I have put some time in shooting since initial setup. Also I certainly agree with you on lessons, no doubt that would be the most effective use of money, that is higher on the priority list than any gear.

@sodaksooner I’ve done quite a bit of reading over on AT, didn’t think about checking out the classifieds.

@ResearchinStuff that makes complete sense with the stabilizer’s efficacy, I didn’t think about that. I would assume that the further it is away from the bow’s center of mass the less weight would be required, the closer it is the more weight it will need to achieve similar results. Correct?

 

[huck]

Archery is a addiction . You can break yourself with upgrades.If your happy with your groups out to 40 then shoot more. If you cant be satisfied with really good "no archer can" then get a second job because upgrades for a archer are like crack for a drugy.

 

[norcalrookie]

Archery is a addiction . You can break yourself with upgrades.If your happy with your groups out to 40 then shoot more. If you cant be satisfied with really good "no archer can" then get a second job because upgrades for an archer are like crack for a drugy.

I’m certain I will never be happy with my groups, it can always get better haha. Ahh what’s one more addiction anyways…

 

[ResearchinStuff]

Yes. Stabilizers work by changing the center of gravity and thus the moment of inertia to make a bow harder to torque/ move. Look at the stubby thing on the hoyt rx7, there's a number of guys who use that as their only stabilizer on that bow, because it's so low and away from the grip.

 

[Yoder]

Rest, sight and release are the things I value most. Of the three, release would be first.