What's the single greatest factor in "forgiveness?"

Agree with @nphunter, ATA and (for me) reflex, or lack thereof, seem to be the biggest factors. I had a short stint with a >30” ata bow, and while I could shoot well in controlled situations, the cold bow challenge and a botched chip shot on a turkey showed me that it just wasn’t working as well in less then ideal situations.

Obviously I suck and those misses are mine to own as the shooter, but when I switched to a longer ATA bow with less reflex, I saw immediate improvements and am just far more comfortable. My bad shots are closer to the center, and when I miss I can tell what I did wrong. My shorter bow felt like I’d make a decent shot, but it would be way off sometimes.

Grip is funny; some of the bows with what felt like the most comfortable grips ended up shooting the worst for me, or requiring the most tuning/screwing with to shoot decent.
 
Consistent shot execution mechanics and trusting the float of your pin. If you can accomplish those two things, you can shoot any bow in just about any state of tuning, and do it accurately.
 
I only scanned but the set up is where it’s at. If you’re willing to do it. You can torque tune your bow. this creates the most forgiveness. No matter how you grip the bow it’s going to hit where you aim
 
I’ve recently moved from a 2011 Mathews Reezen to a brand new Elite Exalt LD.

Whatever the difference between those two is what you’re looking for. And as I get the elite more and more dialed in, it gets easier and easier to shoot well. Get that draw length dialed in well, get the bow well tuned and it’ll do well.
 
I’ve recently moved from a 2011 Mathews Reezen to a brand new Elite Exalt LD.

Whatever the difference between those two is what you’re looking for. And as I get the elite more and more dialed in, it gets easier and easier to shoot well. Get that draw length dialed in well, get the bow well tuned and it’ll do well.
You know what is funny. I just did the opposite and have an easier time with my Mathew’s drenalin and Outback. I shot for prime for 6 years and went back to the old solo cam now that I’ve quit competing. I can tune easier and find them more forgiving. I guess it’s just all in the individual too
 
For me it is a longer axle to axle bow with a grip that suits my shooting style. I shoot my 35" A/A way better under mountain hunting conditions than a short bow 32" A/A or less. Learned that the hard way! Draw length of 29-1/4" and don't use a stabilizer on the bow.
 
The most Forgiving bow, is a bow that is paper tuned and shooting the proper spined arrow. I shot a bow for 5-6 years with underspined arrows and a left tear. I shot it so well (killed everything i shot, hitting where I was aiming, even at extreme range) I never thought to check the paper tune until last year....left tear was grip pressure, now shooting a stiffer spine, and a better grip, and I can tell the bow is even better. If only incrementally. Traditionally, a longer axle to axle bow with longer brace height= more Forgiving.
 
I don't know about any specific factor, but I have a Carbon Defiant 30 and finally got it shooting BH and FP groups up to 40 yards (haven't gone to the woods to test further distances) with the A to A and brace height being not factory spec. Hell I even twisted the cables so much that now the bow that is rated 70 lbs is pushing 74/75 last time I checked with a scale and draw board. I'm going to go with @dirtknap on this one and say just get the arrows flying as straight as possible and get the broadhead to hit with field point.
 
As mentioned, long axle to axle bows. This was true when I shot traditional bows, and still holds true today for me. I hunt with a 41” bow and there are times I feel I can come off the string sideways and hit where I’m aiming.


I tried a V3 33 a couple years back and sold it shortly after and stuck with the 41” bow.
 
man I’ll be a little different here and after watching Levi Morgan talk about how much people tinker on petty things vs practice
I will say that knowing and being able to repeat your shot process is the single greatest factor!
As far as any kind of setup goes I think having the nock point set and the timing set so the bow holds as steady as possible is the next greatest factor.
 
man I’ll be a little different here and after watching Levi Morgan talk about how much people tinker on petty things vs practice
I will say that knowing and being able to repeat your shot process is the single greatest factor!
As far as any kind of setup goes I think having the nock point set and the timing set so the bow holds as steady as possible is the next greatest factor.
Practice. I shot a completely out of tune bow for 6 years. It still hit where I was aiming! Arrows went in straight too. The tuning craze is crazy if u ask me
 
In my opinion- axle to axle length vs draw length is a big one… I also think arrow setup (specifically vanes and vane configuration) play a big role
 
Back
Top