What are you guys shooting for arrows?

[TaterTot]

I shoot 400 victories with 386gr up front out of a 45lb bow but I draw close to 30" so I'm probably closer to 50lbs. I think you'll be stiff but only one way to find out. Strip off the fletching and shoot them.

 

[Cedarsavage]

Thanks for the info. I ordered a test kit for inserts and some full length feathers to tinker with the aae fletch. Once I get the inserts I’ll start playing with 340, 400, 2117, 2219 and 2317. Sounds like 400 will probably be the winner but I wanna make sure before I buy a new dozen.

 

[PHo]

Good call

 

[MrTim]

I’ve tried Easton axis trad, black eagle instincts, regular Easton axis. I’m back to regular Easton axis. They always spin true and the components are so easily to come by and make tuning a breeze. I use a dremel with the cutoff disc to trim shafts.

 

[Cedarsavage]

If they tune from your bow with a good trajectory I say go for it, I don't think FMJs are bad at all considering that they're the ones you already have. Personally I'd buy some heavy one piece broadheads instead of trying to glue up and spin test a 2-piece setup like you're planning on but that's just me.
I'm shooting Beman Centershots and Black Eagle Instincts and like them both. The centershots are cheap and extremely tough, the Instincts are very forgiving and penetrate like crazy.

Looks like those centershots use a external collar, and the nock fits into that, and allows rotating for nock tuning? Is that right?

 

[wytx]

Bois d'arc footed doug fir here.

 

[LostArra]

Bois d'arc footed doug fir here.

Nice. Weight?

Like most traditional archers who have been at it a while I've got an embarrassing collection of arrows and shafts of different spines and materials. Wood, aluminum, carbons.

Early on I got away from cutting arrows for tuning since there are so many ways to get a wide range of point weights. I cut them just short of 30" and I'm good. Point weight and brace height take care of tuning assuming you are in the ballpark to begin.

For carbons I've been using the Gold Tip Traditional for quite a while. Reasonably priced and readily available with brass inserts easy to find.

(Dirty little secret: When my shoulder was acting up, the GT Trad with a Slick Trick Vipertrick worked great with a compound and killed an elk that tipped over in 25 yards. No, I don't use Slick Tricks in traditional setups).

 

[Ozarkansas]

Looks like those centershots use a external collar, and the nock fits into that, and allows rotating for nock tuning? Is that right?

The ones I have don't use an external collar, they just have normal carbon arrow push-nocks, just slightly thinner

 

[Lprough]

Stalker Wolverine longbow - 48@28”

30” gold tip traditional classic arrows- 400spine
4-3” AAE trad vanes
78grain insert
125 grain head

Also groups 100 grain heads well


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Justin.Medcalf]

I shoot 31 inch 400 spine Easton 6.5 Hunter classics with 275 upfront from a 51lb satori at my 29 inch draw. The easton 6.5 hunter arrows are just Beman ICS shafts reworked. I have had very good luck with them for the last 10 years.

 

[roosiebull]

You say it looks like they'd spine out. I'm assuming that means you haven't tried tuning them yet? I'd try tuning them first. A 30" 340 spine with 240 gr up front (counting insert) seems stiff to me out of a 46 # bow, especially with a 26" draw. You're also looking at about a 600 gr finished arrow or 13 gpp. Depending on your aiming style that may be heavier than you want. Just something to think about.

Making sure they'll tune and that the trajectory suits you would be my first two concerns. Way down on the list would be the structural integrity of the aluminum insert. The HIT inserts are pretty tough if glued in properly and chances are good if you hit something on an animal hard enough to bend or brake the insert, you aren't getting through it with 46# @ 26" anyway.

i would bet good money you are correct.

another issue with fmj's or aluminum is bending. i like doing a lot of stump shooting, and ime, that will be a problem with anything aluminum.. i shot fmj's once out of my compound and it didn't take me long to get a slight bend in all of them.... they aren't for me.

a footed axis is really hard to beat, but don't buy a whole bunch of anything until you make sure they'll tune... for sure start out full length with your desired point weight and go from there. get a couple field point test kits from 3 rivers and start shooting bare shafts.

if you are just starting, you may want to just shoot your fmj's for awhile until you get some consistency, bareshaft tuning without decent form is largely a futile activity

 

[PennDude]

I just picked up a 35# Obert Black Hunter from Amazon. I have every spine of the Gold Tip Traditional arrows and couldn’t get any of those traditionals to fly good. I tried every point weight/spine combination. Beat results I got was the 400 spine with 250 grain point. But that was just too much point weight for me.

Switched to an Easton Carbon Aftermath 500 spine and am getting MUCH better arrow flight. I cannot determine what the issue is with those Gold Tips. Maybe the nocks? The Eastons are way more forgiving.

Now I’m playing with my older Bear Grizzly and found that it prefers Easton xx75 Camo Hunter aluminum in 2315. I did add a Hoyt Super Rest and that made the bow a lot easier to tune as opposed to off the shelf.

As far as your Easton FMJs go, I think the main complaint with those arrows is the fact that the shaft can bent and the arrow shaft just behind the insert can mushroom. That can be solved by adding a footer.

 

[Cedarsavage]

Great idea on the footer

I just picked up a 35# Obert Black Hunter from Amazon. I have every spine of the Gold Tip Traditional arrows and couldn’t get any of those traditionals to fly good. I tried every point weight/spine combination. Beat results I got was the 400 spine with 250 grain point. But that was just too much point weight for me.

Switched to an Easton Carbon Aftermath 500 spine and am getting MUCH better arrow flight. I cannot determine what the issue is with those Gold Tips. Maybe the nocks? The Eastons are way more forgiving.

Now I’m playing with my older Bear Grizzly and found that it prefers Easton xx75 Camo Hunter aluminum in 2315. I did add a Hoyt Super Rest and that made the bow a lot easier to tune as opposed to off the shelf.

As far as your Easton FMJs go, I think the main complaint with those arrows is the fact that the shaft can bent and the arrow shaft just behind the insert can mushroom. That can be solved by adding a footer.