Weird results first time reloading for my .270win

OP
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Man I love long weekends

Got out this morning and the weather was perfect.
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Both my cold bore and final 5 shot groups were with the factory Barnes, and they’re opening up to 2”. I think it’s getting dirty.
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None of the other groups were worth noting except for 58 grs. My first 4 shots were in 1”, and the 5th I’m calling a flyer.

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How many rounds since you have cleaned it? What is your cleaning process and what products do you use?
I see your shooting 5 shot groups also. Could be barrel heat, barrel contacting stock or any number of other things. I assume the rifle is all stock also.
 
OP
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How many rounds since you have cleaned it? What is your cleaning process and what products do you use?
I see your shooting 5 shot groups also. Could be barrel heat, barrel contacting stock or any number of other things. I assume the rifle is all stock also.

I got a gunslick kit for it about 5 yrs ago. I swab with the cleaner and let it soak for a minute or two. Swab some more, then run the brass brush about 10 times. Dry patches until clean, oil patch then dry patch.
I use a bore guide and I had cleaned it prior to the first set but it had been a while before that so I cleaned it a little extra yesterday.
I had tried to take my time in between shots and/or groups but it was getting warm by the end yesterday.
It is all stock except I pulled off the stock and free floated it.

When I was grouping previously I was shooting 3 shot groups, but have been second guessing those results so I went to 5.


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Move your chrono 15 feet from muzzle. Try some Barnes TTSX 130 grain. The load I use is 54.0 grains of IMR-4350. I personally just shoot a 3 shot group, and allow barrel to cool one minute between shots, and 5 minutes between groups.
 
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A bore guide is a must. I would recommend a good 1pc coated rod and I personally like BoreTech products.
Also I agree with above. Try another bullet. Etips can be very finicky. I see you ordered some Hammer bullets. They are a very well made consistent bullet. I’d load those next.
 
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My .270 likes really long COAL. I was shooting published lengths and getting results like yours. Loading closer to the lands, while still fitting the magazine, was the trick for me.
 

2five7

WKR
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Man, too many variables to go over on one post. For starters, move back to recommended coal, or if you have the means to measure your rifles throat, start your bullets around .020-.030" off the lands. I know monos do well with more jump, but I've found it best to start close and work your way back, AFTER, you've found your preferred powder and charge weight.

Start with 3 shot groups, when you find one that works, load some more and then shoot a 5-7 shot group. If the group he's well, then move out to 200-300 yards and see how she does.

When cleaning, no need for a brass brush, going to back bare steel each time is not the goal. Use a nylon brush instead.
 
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This is a decent way to find your throat.
I did it for a rifle and it worked like a charm.
Just put the bullet in long and chamber it 3 times.
If you can picture what I'm saying.
OAL-3.jpg
 

Magnum61

Lil-Rokslider
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Man, too many variables to go over on one post. For starters, move back to recommended coal, or if you have the means to measure your rifles throat, start your bullets around .020-.030" off the lands. I know monos do well with more jump, but I've found it best to start close and work your way back, AFTER, you've found your preferred powder and charge weight.

Start with 3 shot groups, when you find one that works, load some more and then shoot a 5-7 shot group. If the group he's well, then move out to 200-300 yards and see how she does.

When cleaning, no need for a brass brush, going to back bare steel each time is not the goal. Use a nylon brush instead.

I have to agree here. There is A LOT of items to cover here.

One thing I would add in here is I’ve found that you can’t fire different material of jacket over the fouling of another material of jacket in bullets. You will see wildly different accuracy issues. And to be able to clean that you’ll need a full cleaning rod on a bearing with a jag set with multiple cleaners. Snake systems for cleaning are for quick options, not thorough cleaning.

Also, I’ve used multiple Tubb polishing kits on Ruger barrels and that has helped a lot.


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OP
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This is a decent way to find your throat.
I did it for a rifle and it worked like a charm.
Just put the bullet in long and chamber it 3 times.
If you can picture what I'm saying.
View attachment 102326
I did this Sunday night as it was suggested earlier. After listening to the Panhandle Precision guy as also suggested here it sounds like the case base to ogive dimension is more critical than COAL, so it looks like this is one place I can surely start. `Thanks again
 

Speedbump

FNG
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Mar 2, 2018
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NY
I have had terrific luck with E Tips in 3 different 270's. My suggestions:
If you're experiencing a decline in accuracy, make sure your barrel is CLEAN.
Start with the SAAMI OAL spec.
270's generally perform well near max loadings. Accuracy is more important to me than 1 or 200 fps either way.
I've trialed the Barnes and Nosler copper bullets, both were very accurate. I went with the ETips, and have taken several whitetails with them. Their performance has been uniformly good. I particularly like the reduction in bloodshot meat.
Good luck with your project. Its a great excuse to get out shooting and gain familiarity with your rifle.
 
OP
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So I finally got out again to try some new loads. I was able to shoot some hand loaded Barnes and some Hammers from 54-58gr of H4831sc
Got too hot to stick around and shoot the Hornady’s I loaded.
Best I did was 1 - 1/16” groups with the Hammers.

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The biggest takeaway I got was with the Cutting Edges I loaded. I had tried using my slotted case to gat a max COAL with them, but somehow my ave COAL from 3 samples was too long. I set my COAL 20/1000” less than what I thought was max and they were too long to chamber.

I think the bullets were too loose in my slotted case and would slip.

When I got home I played with the seating depth until they would chamber and ended up shortening another 30/1000”

I had tried this with the Hammers and they kept getting stuck so I loaded an empty case and slowly shortened until it would chamber. I think I should have done this with all of them.

I broke down and bought the $35 Hornady tool so hopefully this will be a problem of the past.


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Here’s is my opinion not that it matters
Some factory rifles just aren’t gonna be the 3/4MOA rifles. 1 MOA accuracy is plenty for normal ranges.
If you are after 1/2MOA consistently then I’d rebarrel the rifle.
If you want to stick with the Ruger then I’d bed it and get the trigger adjusted or replaced. It could still be a gamble as factory barrels are hit or miss.
Another aspect is try another powder with those lead free bullets.
 

Magnum61

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Here’s is my opinion not that it matters
Some factory rifles just aren’t gonna be the 3/4MOA rifles. 1 MOA accuracy is plenty for normal ranges.
If you are after 1/2MOA consistently then I’d rebarrel the rifle.
If you want to stick with the Ruger then I’d bed it and get the trigger adjusted or replaced. It could still be a gamble as factory barrels are hit or miss.
Another aspect is try another powder with those lead free bullets.

This is spot on advice. I can’t support it enough.

I have to add - specifically with a factory gun like yours, use the final finish system. Especially on a Ruger. The consistency with go up and it will clean a million times better.

All custom barrels are lapped out. Factory barrels are not and need to be to get the accuracy.



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