Walk-in cooler with cool bot materials

Joined
Feb 10, 2024
Messages
99
I want to build a walk-in cooler for hanging deer in my barn. I plan 8x8x9 ft with barn having a concrete floor. I will still insulate the floor. The barn was designed for a walk-in cooler (before I bought it), so it has a drain installed in the floor. For those of you with building experience or experience with your own build, what materials did you use for building the cooler? I would think using something that cleans easily and maybe have a drain for easy cleaning? Of course, it needs a lot of insulation and cool bot approved AC unit. I would also like to install some type of gambrel system for multiple deer. I have done extensive research on cool bot website and you-tube but still undecided on what to use for materials for the inside walls.
 

bcjoe

FNG
Joined
Oct 18, 2024
Messages
38
Location
Texas, Wyoming, Colorado
If u r on a budget and depending on your location, look for some restaurant remodels or tear downs, they will throw away entire cooler boxes that you can rebuild. If do it from scratch 2x6 walls with a vapor barrier and it needs to be lined of a water resistant material so mold cannot grow in your cooler. The biggest thing is making sure it is sealed and mildew and mold resistant. I have heard of people using portable a/c to cool it but as a tech those things harbor mold and bacteria. I would buy once cry once and buy a used rack from a cooler if I could find one. It would save u some time and headache, good luck sir
 
OP
BossGobbler2024
Joined
Feb 10, 2024
Messages
99
If u r on a budget and depending on your location, look for some restaurant remodels or tear downs, they will throw away entire cooler boxes that you can rebuild. If do it from scratch 2x6 walls with a vapor barrier and it needs to be lined of a water resistant material so mold cannot grow in your cooler. The biggest thing is making sure it is sealed and mildew and mold resistant. I have heard of people using portable a/c to cool it but as a tech those things harbor mold and bacteria. I would buy once cry once and buy a used rack from a cooler if I could find one. It would save u some time and headache, good luck sir
thank you for the reply. Since I am not a builder, what consists of a vapor barrier? plastic or some specific material, is there a name for it? Lined with a water resistant material was my thought also but I don't know what material to look for. I have seen them in videos but no one ever says what it is called.... so I don't know what to look for.

I am in the buy once cry once camp also but I don't want to over engineer the thing either.
 

Burnsie

WKR
Joined
Feb 3, 2017
Messages
313
Location
Illinois
If u r on a budget and depending on your location, look for some restaurant remodels or tear downs, they will throw away entire cooler boxes that you can rebuild. If do it from scratch 2x6 walls with a vapor barrier and it needs to be lined of a water resistant material so mold cannot grow in your cooler. The biggest thing is making sure it is sealed and mildew and mold resistant. I have heard of people using portable a/c to cool it but as a tech those things harbor mold and bacteria. I would buy once cry once and buy a used rack from a cooler if I could find one. It would save u some time and headache, good luck sir
I just picked up an old cooler box from where I work, It was set to be demo'd. Pretty simple to take a part and reassemble. Only issue was someone had scavenged the refrigeration system on it, so I'm hunting for something that will work. My brother and his buddy also snagged a walk-in cooler box from a restaurant manager he knew. Has had many deer go through it over the years.
 

bcjoe

FNG
Joined
Oct 18, 2024
Messages
38
Location
Texas, Wyoming, Colorado
I would check with the HVAC supplier and an insulation company for jacketed pipe wrap material, it comes in large rolls that u can line the inner walls, air vapor barrier can be found at Home Depot type of store, there are some other ideas on u tube for that. That can get u started for sure
 

Attachments

  • IMG_4724.png
    IMG_4724.png
    607.6 KB · Views: 35

JoeB

Lil-Rokslider
Joined
Oct 21, 2020
Messages
219
I built mine using wood studs and layered foam insulation board in the pockets between studs. I calked each layer of foam all around the edges to seal it then added another layer of foam boarding till the stud pockets were full. Did this on the ceiling as well. I used osb on the walls to protect the foam for now. The plan is to add fiberglass panels like used on bathroom walls and calk the seams, this will allow me to wipe the walls down when needed. So far, I've not ran it allot just when weather is warm, and I or a friend harvest a deer. And then only a week tops each time. The cool Bot keeps my cooler as low as 34 degrees highest I've seen it was around 36-37 and it was close to 85 degrees outside, so they work well. As for a track system I got a few meat hangers with wheels from a guy that tore out a butcher shop freezer and had extras. I used angle iron and welded up a track to roll the deer carcass in and out. I made hangers to hang the track from the ceiling of the cooler. I have an electric hoist just outside the cooler to raise deer up and down while skinning then lower them down onto the track outside the cooler using the wheels from the butcher shop (I'm not sure what they are actually called), then roll the carcass into the cooler. I have one section of the track that is removable so I can close the door. Just remember not to open the door and grab a carcass and slid it out before putting the track section back in. I did that once and clean carcass hits the dirty barn floor quick, LOL.
 

Pezboat

WKR
Joined
Mar 15, 2018
Messages
410
Location
Minneapolis
I’ve been considering a walk-in cooler for a while now. Is there an advantage to a walk-in as opposed to something like this?


[object Object]
 
Joined
Jan 15, 2016
Messages
399
My room is built into my shop, its 8'x8' with a 10' ceiling. I have 2"x6" construction with blown in insulation and OSB on the walls. I went to a steel supply business and got 2 1 1/2" pipes the width of my walls and built wooden brackets to hold them up. I can easily hang 2 elk in there, probably 3. I have a concrete floor with a drain, and I put a hose bib in the room. It works very well.
 
OP
BossGobbler2024
Joined
Feb 10, 2024
Messages
99
My room is built into my shop, its 8'x8' with a 10' ceiling. I have 2"x6" construction with blown in insulation and OSB on the walls. I went to a steel supply business and got 2 1 1/2" pipes the width of my walls and built wooden brackets to hold them up. I can easily hang 2 elk in there, probably 3. I have a concrete floor with a drain, and I put a hose bib in the room. It works very well.
Did you cover the OSB with any type of sealant or paint?
 

JMundy84

Lil-Rokslider
Joined
Nov 29, 2023
Messages
240
Me and a friend built a cooler we made double 2x4 walls on 2' centers that are offset so there's a stud every foot with 2 layers of fiberglass bat insulation. Inside panels are 2" blue Styrofoam board used 3/4 steel tubing to make rails for hanging hooks on. Painted the floor with regular garage floor epoxy and it cleans up easy enough. Cool not with one of their recommended ac units I believe it's an LG. It keeps temps in the mid 30s in September no problem.
 

bergie

Lil-Rokslider
Joined
Jul 15, 2023
Messages
230
I made mine out of 2x4 studs with EPS foam insulation in between and another layer on the outside. Insulated the walls roof and floor. If you are handy you can buy a controller off of Amazon and wire it in to your air-conditioning yourself, saving nearly all the cost of a cool bot. All you need to do is wire it so the fan is always on, and the compressor is turned on and off by the controller when the fins of the air conditioner get below a certain point(this does take some tweaking so I can't tell you exactly where to set it). I would say mine is about 6' tall by 7' wide and 3' deep. It can hold two bull elk with nothing more than J hooks for bicycles screwed into the 2x4 rafters.
If I were to do it again I would sheet the whole thing with plywood for walls, but other than that have been happy. Keeps a consistent 39 degrees even when it's 100 outside and have no issues with mold or anything else, just wipe it down when I'm done and leave it open to dry out before closing it up.
 

Attachments

  • 20230921_172911.jpg
    20230921_172911.jpg
    389.8 KB · Views: 56

bcjoe

FNG
Joined
Oct 18, 2024
Messages
38
Location
Texas, Wyoming, Colorado
I’ve been considering a walk-in cooler for a while now. Is there an advantage to a walk-in as opposed to something like this?


[object Object]
If u get a 3 door model they are perfect for everything but a big bull moose, just remember if u had to put 2 elk in there it would be a bit crammed, otherwise a much more efficient idea as opposed to a full walk in cooler. The walk in gives u more versatility I think but if u r just worried about one elk a year or deer it’s perfect. If u decide to hang your meat for a couple weeks the walk in will be better if u get another animal down. Cost wise is probably a couple grand more for the walk if u build it yourself.
 

wytx

WKR
Joined
Feb 2, 2017
Messages
2,317
Location
Wyoming
Tin, ranch we work on has a small walk in on the back of the barn, all tin inside and out.
I spray it down with bleach water every year to disinfect it and it's ready to go.

Coolbot is much easier than buying all that other controller stiff and getting it rigged but not cheap. Been using on for about 9 years now with no issues.

IMG_9517 copy.jpg
IMG_9511 copy.jpg
 
Joined
Dec 1, 2023
Messages
91
I wouldn't stress about a vapour barrier in this set up.

The biggest thing is insulation. You have a few options:
A)Buy new panels - very expensive
B)find a grovery store that is getting demo'd and show up with cash/beer make a deal. Or check used building supply stores - could be expensive, could be cheap
C)Frame walls with steel stud, not wood, and use a 2lb spray foam. This is probably the best do it yourself method
D)steel framing with rigid insulation
E)Option C or D but using wood instead of steel stud.

Steel stud over would is a no brainer for me. More durable, longer life span.

A cooler is only as good as its insulation. When it comes down to insulation, its only two options in my opinion, Rigid or closed cell spray. Less insulation means more time cooling. More insulation means less time running. If its just to hang a deer every now and then, batt would work but your AC would be running for most of the time.

On the steel studs I would install a densesheild style board. I would then epoxy the floor and run your epoxy about 8-12" up the denseshield. Then install FRP panels. FRP are fiberglass reinforced panels and that will hold up in an environment like this and can be washed easy. After FRP, caulk all the joints.

Your room is large and will be dark, install a light suitable for wet spaces.

I personally wouldn't insulate the floor unless this unit was running 24/7 as a cooler. If the floor is concrete with a drain, it will naturally be cool being partially buried and not exposed to the sun. Cold air also travels down.

Lots of options. Majority of the project will be driven by budget

We converted the front 4' of our cargo trailer to have refridge when in the bush. Coolbot works like a charm.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_9173.jpg
    IMG_9173.jpg
    291.8 KB · Views: 33

BBob

WKR
Joined
Jun 29, 2020
Messages
4,545
Location
Southern AZ
Do you have a link?
Just do a general search for "reach in refrigerator" or "deli refrigerator". They are all over the place now. Restaurant supply's, Amazon, etc.... Add your own hanging rack. Glass fronts are generally more expensive.
 
Top