Vertix - new season, new arrows, paper tune is shit. Help?

[awpk03s]

I hunted with a Mathews Vertix last year, 28.5” DL, 70#, LH, Mathews/QAD dovetail drop away rest, HHA Optimizer Light, Mathews 8” stabilizer, and Q lite quivers. Used 545 gr Easton Axis SPT arrows, 300 spine, 28”, 75gr HIT inserts, IW 100gr broadhead, 25gr collar.

Shot bullet holes on paper, like perfect. I had great success with it.

This year, I decided to make my own arrows to replenish the stock rather than buying assembled ones. Bought cut to length 300 spine 5mm Axis shafts, used Blazer quick fletch, and glued in the inserts, I was ready to go.

The arrow was essentially the same weight, but a difference from Axis 5mm SPT to just Axis 5mm shafts, and from Blazer vanes to the Blazer quick fletch.

Being the idiot that I am, I thought I’d shoot it through paper just to check it out.

Nock left tear. Repeatedly. To be sure, I then fired one of last years arrows, that previously shot bullet holes…. Again, Nock left tear.

I moved the rest to the right. Shot again.
Over and over again I had the same result, nock left tear. Drove myself nuts, moved rest both directions, a little and then a lot, and no matter what, nock left tear. I also removed the collar to reduce the point weight, to no avail.

Now, I lost track of all the clicks and I don’t know what my starting point was. I have it set back to what I think is center and it shoots accurately enough, but it sucks on the paper.

I don’t really know what to do, but it bothers me. I have a new ABB Platinum string/cables in the cabinet (my peep keeps getting twisted in the factory Zebra string), maybe I should just get the new string on and start over..???

I’d be glad to hear any advice. I’m just perplexed how it went from good to crap on paper, and maybe that’s my problem, I shouldn’t care about the paper…. Or maybe my form is crap after not shooting since snow was on the ground.

 

[Luked]

Would set it to 13/16 off the riser and go from there.
Can't remember if the Vertix has top hats or not like the newer ones. I have a Vertix. And it shoots lights out. I shoot a gold tip 340 spine but are pretty heavy at 510 grain but also a 29.5"draw and 65 lbs but I have zero issues with mine

Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk

 

[puihitangata]

If the old arrows are doing the same I would say it's either you torqueing the bow slightly different. Other form things could be face contact.

The limbs deflections may have changed over time and require the top hats to be adjusted to get it shooting a bullet again.

I would do a walk back tune to set the rest and then shim the cams with the top hats to get the tear right.
Moving the rest left/right has minimal impact on the tear compared to shimming the cams.

 

[Mighty Mouse]

Cable stretch could be the culprit. On a LH bow, lengthening the cables would have the effect of shifting the paper tear to the left. Check your ATA and draw weight. If ATA is over spec and draw weight is under, you might be able to bring them back into spec by adding cable twists, which might also get rid of the nock left tear. Using top hats to shift the cams to the left would be a more direct way to resolve the left tear.

Whether you try twisting your current cables, leave them alone, or replace them, I would adjust the rest to recommended centershot (13/16"±1/16" from inside of riser to centerline of arrow) before continuing to tune.

 

[awpk03s]

Thanks…. I’ll measure and reset the rest to 13/16 and go from there. Probably still try and swap the string out soon anyhow.

As for top hats and shims…. That’s new territory for me. Is this the kind of product I would use for that?

Mathews Top Hat Spacer Kit

These easy-to-install Top Hat Spacers from Mathews Archery are perfect for adjusting cam spacing. Each set is marked by the reference lines on each spacer so you know which ones will match up. These spacers are a must-have for anyone looking to tune a Matthews compound bowFeatures: Allows you to...

lancasterarchery.com

 

[Mighty Mouse]

As for top hats and shims…. That’s new territory for me. Is this the kind of product I would use for that?

Mathews Top Hat Spacer Kit

These easy-to-install Top Hat Spacers from Mathews Archery are perfect for adjusting cam spacing. Each set is marked by the reference lines on each spacer so you know which ones will match up. These spacers are a must-have for anyone looking to tune a Matthews compound bowFeatures: Allows you to...

lancasterarchery.com

That's the correct product. Any shop that works on Mathews bows should have plenty of spare top hats in stock, so if you're taking your bow to a shop anyway, you could just have them use theirs instead of buying a full kit yourself.

 

[Zac]

Just take your new string and cables to a shop. Once they are installed come in and request to shoot the bow through paper. They may have to move a top hat around, but it will turn out just fine.

 

[Rob5589]

If your peep keeps moving, something is changing in the cable system. Install the new set and start from scratch.

 

[awpk03s]

So I did reset my rest to center at 13/16, and made only like a two click adjustment doing walk back tuning. Field points fly great, broadheads (Iron Will and Grizzly Stick) both fly great and POA = POI.

On paper, I still have the same tear, which is irritating, but I guess I don’t care that much.

However, the peep rotation has me at my wits end, so it’s definitely time, going to change out strings and cables for my set of ABB Platinum. Invested in a bow press, and going to construct a draw board for my home shop, and hopefully get this thing back all the way in business.

 

[BowAdik]

How'd the new ABB set-up turn out?
After reading your orig post, the only thing I see, after with working with customers, is your grip and possible bow torque. If all you stated is correct, I'd certainly make sure your posture/grip is where is should be.
But maybe your new set-up worked out.

 

[awpk03s]

How'd the new ABB set-up turn out?
After reading your orig post, the only thing I see, after with working with customers, is your grip and possible bow torque. If all you stated is correct, I'd certainly make sure your posture/grip is where is should be.
But maybe your new set-up worked out.

I’ll tell you what, I’m very pleased with the progress I’ve made.

I installed my bow press, and put on new ABB Platinum string and cables. Put bow on a homemade draw board, and in a series of back and forth, put twists in the cables as needed to get the needed cam alignment. Used my square to find nock location and tied in d loop. Tuned my Mathews (QAD) Integrate rest cable to rise and fall appropriately. Then I shot 100 arrows to break in the string/cables. Next, I pressed the bow again and installed and served in my new peep sight.

I paper tuned, and with just a few clicks on my rest and one change of top hat shims, I was shooting bullet holes repeatedly. Out in the yard, it took just a little bit of windage on my sight to get L/R dialed in, elevation was perfect. Broadheads (Iron Will and Grizzly Stik) hit same POI/POA as my field points.

Best of all…. My peep sight lined up perfectly to my face/anchor every draw, and no twist.

Super happy with it.