My wife and I went for our honeymoon back in 2017. Loved it, would absolutely go back. We stayed at Padama Resort Ubud, never went to the beach, spent our entire trip up there, which was more in the mountains. We did find if you go out on any 'tours' you need to be pretty forceful on your expectations, as the locals will just bring you to every tourist trap and gift shop they can if you let them. Once we found a good local, we just requested him every time we left for the remainder of the trip. Only thing that shocked me when I was there was the level of pollution, but I have heard they have worked hard to improve that since.