Used truck value question???

[*zap*]

2006 Ram 3500 SLT dually. 6 speed manual tranny, 5.9 Cummins, 9' long flatbed, Mega cab. Know the owners from the last 10 years(brothers) they maintain things.....new rear end and some other repairs have been made as needed. 350,000 miles.
2004 Ram 3500 dually. 8' stock bed, newly rebuilt auto transmission and other repairs as needed, Mega cab, 450,000 miles, 5.9 Cummins, one of the brothers has had that for 8-9 years.

Both clean inside and out.
I see a range of price on similar vehicles for sale online..
Fair market values.......??
Thanks.

 

[180ls1]

Mega cab and 06/07 5.9 adds a lot of worth. Do you know if its 4x4?

 

[*zap*]

manual is 2x4 and the automatic is a 4x4. 06/07 adds value how? Thanks.

 

[mt terry d]

Not a fan of duallys but that 5.9 with the 6 speed manual is a keeper.

The automatic trannys are junk

Is kansas rust country?

3rd gens are being gobbled up quickly.

If not probably in the $15-17,000 range I'd guess? Maybe more.

Sounds like a young team roper's rig.

 

[*zap*]

Mega cab and 06/07 5.9 adds a lot of worth. Do you know if its 4x4?

Not a fan of duallys but that 5.9 with the 6 speed manual is a keeper.

The automatic trannys are junk

Is kansas rust country?

3rd gens are being gobbled up quickly.

If not probably in the $15-17,000 range I'd guess? Maybe more.

Sounds like a young team roper's rig.

quad cab not mega cab on both. Thanks.

 

[180ls1]

manual is 2x4 and the automatic is a 4x4. 06/07 adds value how? Thanks.

Its the last year of the legendary 5.9 without all the emissions BS.

The automatics are decent trans but get a bad rap because people but big tires and a tune on em = blow up. Mine lasted 150isk and my dads 180k. Once built they are bulletproof.

I honestly dont know your market that well but 12-15k is probably close.

 

[*zap*]

Once built they are bulletproof.

Do you mean rebuilt?

Thanks

 

[180ls1]

Do you mean rebuilt?

Thanks

Pretty much. "Built" means upgraded. The 48re is easy/cheap to build strong and reliable, really only *needed* if you modify the truck.

 

[TaperPin]

Some of those trucks are ready for the crusher - do mid 2000’s trucks even exist in the rusty states anymore? The Dodge cabs aren’t known for being long lasting.

I crawled around a 2006 for a friend that was rode hard, but had a good body. I said as long as you’re ok spending the money on new u-joints all around, replacing driveshaft intermediate bearing and slip yokes, knuckle joints, tie rod ends, steering box, rebuilding the transfer case, transmission rebuild, alternator, water pump, power steering pump, rebuilt injection pump, new outer axle seals in the rear, fan clutch, replace aftermarket injectors with factory injectors, taking off the power chip programming, replacing the fuel pumps, and finally replacing the unitized front hubs. The brakes were recently replaced, it had very little blow by, and the body was in really good shape.

He was single, had a six figure income and could afford to replace all the parts on it’s last legs, so it wasn’t a bad truck for him. Value of a similar truck would depend on the amount of deferred maintenance, and condition of frame and cab. To buy a truck without going through it might be a mistake at any price. If everything has been kept tight with quality parts it might be a $30k truck.

 

[bowhuntercoop]

I get offered stupid money all the time for my 99 farm truck. Granted it’s a fully built engine and trans and a sleeper truck, but they bring insane money. I posted last year, I sold my 07 5.9, 6 speed common rail. I also built that truck very well. Built engine and trans, I had 120k on the truck. I sold it for 40k cash in one day of posting.

Both of those trucks you mentioned will sell in the 12-16k range in the Midwest pretty quick.

 

[*zap*]

Some of those trucks are ready for the crusher - do mid 2000’s trucks even exist in the rusty states anymore? The Dodge cabs aren’t known for being long lasting.

I crawled around a 2006 for a friend that was rode hard, but had a good body. I said as long as you’re ok spending the money on new u-joints all around, replacing driveshaft intermediate bearing and slip yokes, knuckle joints, tie rod ends, steering box, rebuilding the transfer case, transmission rebuild, alternator, water pump, power steering pump, rebuilt injection pump, new outer axle seals in the rear, fan clutch, replace aftermarket injectors with factory injectors, taking off the power chip programming, replacing the fuel pumps, and finally replacing the unitized front hubs. The brakes were recently replaced, it had very little blow by, and the body was in really good shape.

He was single, had a six figure income and could afford to replace all the parts on it’s last legs, so it wasn’t a bad truck for him. Value of a similar truck would depend on the amount of deferred maintenance, and condition of frame and cab. To buy a truck without going through it might be a mistake at any price. If everything has been kept tight with quality parts it might be a $30k truck.

I know the one brother and he keep up the truck he had as needed. Obviously I would look them over but it is not near me and I can only see what I can see as a non gualafied mechanic. Thanks.

 

[bowhuntercoop]

I know the one brother and he keep up the truck he had as needed. Obviously I would look them over but it is not near me and I can only see what I can see as a non gualafied mechanic. Thanks.

One thing with common rails is the injectors are expensive. Plan on 3-4k if neither of those truck have had them done, they are over do for a set. 150-200k is common with good filtration for a set to last on average. I’ve seen stocks flow well into the 350k and I’ve seen stock crap out at 15k from poor filtration. You can pm me with any questions, I worked for Cummins as a field tech for years, I’m very familiar with the engines.

 

[TaperPin]

I know the one brother and he keep up the truck he had as needed. Obviously I would look them over but it is not near me and I can only see what I can see as a non gualafied mechanic. Thanks.

My brother in law still has a 2006 in really nice shape, and he keeps up on prices a lot closer than I do - he always says they don’t make ‘em anymore so prices can only go higher - so far he’s been right. Lol

 

[Parkerpusher]

I have an 05 2wd dually with about 360,000 on it. If I sold it, I’d ask 15k for it and negotiate down from there. Might sell around here in the 14k range

 

[*zap*]

One thing with common rails is the injectors are expensive. Plan on 3-4k if neither of those truck have had them done, they are over do for a set. 150-200k is common with good filtration for a set to last on average. I’ve seen stocks flow well into the 350k and I’ve seen stock crap out at 15k from poor filtration. You can pm me with any questions, I worked for Cummins as a field tech for years, I’m very familiar with the engines.

How can I tell if the injectors are going to need replacement soon?

 

[mt terry d]

How can I tell if the injectors are going to need replacement soon?

Hard starts is one thing.

Ive an '05. 6 spd manual. Do my own work. Montana truck it's whole life so zero rust.
Hail instead Unless it gets totalled I'll
never replace it. And if it does I'll replace it with another 3rd gen.

$3-4,000 for injectors, put on a good filtration system, fuel additive like
Archoil and you're pretty set.

Helluva lot cheaper than a new truck. If you're working with borrowed $$
what are monthly payments ? Oh, but I saw an ad for a new chevy that
has 14, count 'em, fourteen! optional camera views. How have I ever gotten along
without that?!

 

[*zap*]

I would buy with cash money, maybe some gold/silver and cash. Appreciate the answers.

So, if the trucks fire right up cold then injectors may not be an issue for a while?

 

[mt terry d]

Probably. It's just something to keep in mind as preventive maintenance.

Start the truck and while it's running flip the oil fill cover over and set it over the hole.
If it's puffing air trying to blow it off it has issues. You don't want to deal with that.

 

[wowzers]

Pretty much. "Built" means upgraded. The 48re is easy/cheap to build strong and reliable, really only *needed* if you modify the truck.

My experience with a 48re in an 06 3500 was it was barely adequate for the stock motor and not really that cheap to build right.

Zap if you do buy I would recommend an aftermarket fuel filter kit. Mine installed in the frame rail and I use Cat filters. Like others mentioned there injectors on common rails have such a small orfice any trash in the fuel can wreck the nozzle.

 

[*zap*]

My experience with a 48re in an 06 3500 was it was barely adequate for the stock motor and not really that cheap to build right.

Zap if you do buy I would recommend an aftermarket fuel filter kit. Mine installed in the frame rail and I use Cat filters. Like others mentioned there injectors on common rails have such a small orfice any trash in the fuel can wreck the nozzle.

I was reading about that, the stock is 7 micron and that may not be enough. I saw some pics of the frame rail mounted fuel filter and water separator. Learned a lot more about awareness of the injectors also last night after it was mentioned on here I researched it.
I appreciate the comments very much, thanks fellas!

I think both these trucks have been kept stock all their lives....probably going to get carfax on both before I go and look at them next week.....it is out of state and south so there may be no issues with rust.

Carfax best? Seems to cost around $fity bucks.