Upgrading Truck Suspension, on a budget

$400 for all that? No way that isnt just a box of crap.

Easy pass
Ram is not known for having quality front ends regardless, so new crap is still significantly better than 11 year old crap. At 180K miles, I guarantee you his front end is worn out worse than a whore on an aircraft carrier.
 
Ram is not known for having quality front ends regardless, so new crap is still significantly better than 11 year old crap. At 180K miles, I guarantee you his front end is worn out worse than a whore on an aircraft carrier.
Okay… nice visual! I don’t plan on doing a leveling or lift kit. Just R&R the shocks. Still think this is necessary? Also, wow. What a bull in your avatar.
 
Okay… nice visual! I don’t plan on doing a leveling or lift kit. Just R&R the shocks. Still think this is necessary? Also, wow. What a bull in your avatar.
Yes, if you still have original upper and lower control arms and ball joints, I guarantee you your ball joints are not happy. If the ball joint on either side of your lower control arms is toast, any bump you go over will be painful. Doesn't matter what kind of shocks you have or how new they are. From a labor/installation standpoint, it's more efficient and cost effective to get a new whole control arm assembly since it already has the ball joint included. Do you have grease zerks on all of your arms/ball joints, and if so, when is the last time/how often do you grease them? Have you replaced any of your ball joints lately, and if so, which ones?
 
Ram is not known for having quality front ends regardless, so new crap is still significantly better than 11 year old crap.

Hell of a way to look at things.

I am not up to date on the dodge stuff. That said last set of decent ball joints I bought for an IFS truck were a bit over $300.

There just isnt a way that you can get a full set of control arms and tie rods for that kinda money without it being complete trash.

Those are kinda important parts. I'd cheap out elsewhere..
 
Yes, if you still have original upper and lower control arms and ball joints, I guarantee you your ball joints are not happy. If the ball joint on either side of your lower control arms is toast, any bump you go over will be painful. Doesn't matter what kind of shocks you have or how new they are. From a labor/installation standpoint, it's more efficient and cost effective to get a new whole control arm assembly since it already has the ball joint included. Do you have grease zerks on all of your arms/ball joints, and if so, when is the last time/how often do you grease them? Have you replaced any of your ball joints lately, and if so, which ones?
all original, down to the wheel bearings.
- no grease zerks on the entire front end. Ram sealed everything and made it a “drive to failure” part. Even the transmission pan doesn’t have a removable filter and can’t be serviced. It sucks, but a lot of newer trucks are like this.

To sum up: it’s more like an un-lubed whore on an aircraft carrier.

I don’t mind replacing it, but it’s doubling the cost at this point, and I’m trying to keep it reasonable.
 
all original, down to the wheel bearings.
- no grease zerks on the entire front end. Ram sealed everything and made it a “drive to failure” part. Even the transmission pan doesn’t have a removable filter and can’t be serviced. It sucks, but a lot of newer trucks are like this.

To sum up: it’s more like an un-lubed whore on an aircraft carrier.

I don’t mind replacing it, but it’s doubling the cost at this point, and I’m trying to keep it reasonable.
Yeah if you want to keep the truck and get the ride fixed, you 100% need a new front end. You should be able to find someone to install that kit (or similar) for $700-$1,000.
 
Yeah if you want to keep the truck and get the ride fixed, you 100% need a new front end. You should be able to find someone to install that kit (or similar) for $700-$1,000.
If you’re talking about the part link you sent me, is there a reason why I wouldn’t do it myself? Not complicated and I’ll have half of it removed or disconnected anyway to replace the shocks.
 
Cougar, most mil auto hobby shops have a spring compressor. I’ve used some locally for this project in CO. NCR appears to have some if you don’t mind the drive.

I like doing more complex projects at the shops, the folks working are good to bounce questions off and help.

I did the entire front end on my Tahoe last year. Kit was $500 (not including struts/springs). Took 4 hours. Shop charged $50.
 
I’ve got a Ram 1500 with 160k miles. The ride was never great, but it is worse now. I’m saving now to replace the truck in 4-5 years. I don’t like the truck, but I have to admit that other than replacing the Torque Converter, it has been exceptionally reliable. I’d like to improve the ride - it is currently all factory. I’m not against a small lift (2”), but I don’t care all that much. I do some towing/hauling, so keeping some of the rake is desirable. I rode in a buddy’s Rebel and the ride difference was night and day. I didn’t feel every bump in the road and it felt more in contact with the dirt road. I’m considering replacing the suspension to improve the ride until my son takes the truck or I sell it. It’s mostly highway/city, some towing/hauling, and some off road periodically. Any recommendations on a shocks/struts/springs?

I put bilstein 6112 coil overs on the front of my tundra. I added a 1/2” top hat spacer to lift the front end. I added 5160’s to the rear (ones with the reservoir) and added a 1” shackle to level out the truck. It has about 1/4-1/2 inch rake. I added new jba upper control arms as well. Probably would use them again bc you have to break the bolts loose to grease them.

All in, roughly $2600 out of pocket and 9-10 hours of my time cursing and banging knuckles. I would buy the parts and hire out the labor next time. Lol

Ride was better than the factory suspension and still rides nice after 100k miles.


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