UM Tikka rings are not recommended for cartridges larger than 7mm PRC?

Couple things

When designing a joint, that has a weaker material for the threaded portion, typically you increase the number of threads. That is done by drilling and tapping/rolling threads deeper as well as a tighter thread pitch. The general design goal is that you want that bolt to fail before the threads (not always possible and sometimes not desirable, but it's a general rule of thumb). There are lots of rules of thumb 1D vs 1.5D, vs 2D for various materials, want to see an industry fail? Look up early Ford mod motor spark plug threading. IIRC they had like 1D for AL threads, and now they are known for shooting spark plugs into the hood.

Never forget about fastener stiffness/elongation. The elongation of the fastener is a key in keeping joints together, it needs to "absorb" the in service forces and still have enough tension to keep it all together. Graph tension with respect to elongation and you want something that changes tension slowly when elongation is changed. You generally don't want the tension to fall off a cliff when the length is changed.

Diameter to length ratio (D/L) and the tensile strength of the fastener, it plays a profound roll in joint relaxation, what type of process you can use (straight tq, tq plus angle, tq to yield), and to a lesser extent (unless you go totally off the rails) sensitivity of the tq/tension relationship.

Don't take this as a nock on high tensile strength bolts, I am very pro high tensile strength bolts, it drives me nuts more companies are not using better fasters (Please use more Stainless alloys like 300 series and 450). But don't forget thread and under head forces, under head impressions and gauling is bad, you often need to downsize high strength fasteners make careful selection of coatings and under head materials to allow them to be used properly. I know this is blasphemy for RS, but even lubing threads and underhead and moving away from Loctite. I don't want to derail this thread, but for many joints lube is far superior and often necessary over Loctite.

I have actually applauded the firearm industry for using small diameter, fine pitched fasteners. Swapping a short fine thread #6 or #8 for a 1/4-20 or 1/4-28 would be a disaster from an install tq sensitivity and joint relaxation perspective. But a good point is brought up, bigger bolts that can handle the forces, but come loose from relaxation ends up being a similar failure mode to small fastener that doesn't relax as much but residual tensile loads are exceeded during service. I have always argued the answer is more numbers of smaller fine pitch fasteners.

Hopefully @Unknown Munitions is is thinking about this when they are making their new tikka clone action. They could easily make expoxying rails to the top of the action, Loctite, etc. a thing of the past with some intelligent joint design that could even be backwards compatible.

I hear you… I’ll refrain from continuing the drama. And my FS of 2 comment definitely stems from my industry but would be laughably low is others like you mention.

Friction can 100% be used effectively to carry shear and is used all over the place where lots of large fasteners can fit. Interestingly enough, since you mentioned it, many wheel hubs actually have shear features if you look at them. Not dedicated pins, but there will be an indentation on one with mating protrusion on the other — usually around the hub. Though for small vehicles some are purely frictional.

The problem with scope rings are the fasteners are always laughably small. #10 or even 1/4” fasteners would honestly have to be used to allow for high safety factors.

It’s hunting season and I’m not that bored, but maybe one of these days I’ll sit down and pencil out an example calc for a magnum cartridge. My gut says even trying to get a FS of 2 might not be possible purely using friction with the given fastener size.

Just in case I get a wild hair, can anyone confirm what size fasteners and grade of material the UM base fasteners are?

For reference, Sportsmatch medium rings use M4 and high rings actually use M5, both stamped 12.9 on the head which is a high strength steel. Ult ~180,000psi. Sportsmatch torque specs of 38 in-lbs and 55in-lbs for those sizes respectively are pretty spicy for those fastener sizes, and they likely used dry/degreased values to generate them. If I sub say a K factor of 0.15 in for a moderate lubricant like Loctite, those torque values can easily take you to 90% of ultimate strength of the fastener -- before even accounting for torque wrench variability.

I'm measuring 0.163" for the major thread diameter. They're marked KLI A574 USA.

I really doubt the grade of steel screw makes any difference when they're threaded into 6061 Aluminum. I would think any upgrade for more torque/clamping would require a threaded insert like a helicoil or timesert. But I'm no engineer...

Appreciate it! And yes, the female threads in the aluminum are the limiting factor.
 
On the drama front, I think the only real fundamental that Fowl Play and I ended up disagreeing over is if the shear pin should be used as a primary or secondary joint retention feature.

My joint design philosophy for something like this is to understand expected service loads and design a robust joint with as forgiving assembly process as possible then use features like shear pins for abuse and unexpected customer cycles. If there is one thing engineering at scale has taught me, no matter how well you think you know the customer use and expectations, when manufacturing at scales of thousands to millions, you cant know every edge case.

I have designed and oversaw many joints that use features like this, and continue to support their use when it makes sense. There are times they don't make sense, sometimes dimensional stack up can make they very hard to implement, or you want a particular part of the joint to "break away" when overloaded. But for this, I think it should be included as a secondary feature.
 
They should revise the design with Ti clamps like Nightforce
While I can only speculate on the failure modes are that they are trying to address, I suspect making the clamps Ti will not fix it. It would have to be something like the aluminum is deforming too much to make a switch like that a reasonable direction.

Also, Ti can be quite a handful in many regards. It's very possible that just switching out some components to Ti will make joint robustness worse.
 
While I can only speculate on the failure modes are that they are trying to address, I suspect making the clamps Ti will not fix it. It would have to be something like the aluminum is deforming too much to make a switch like that a reasonable direction.

Also, Ti can be quite a handful in many regards. It's very possible that just switching out some components to Ti will make joint robustness worse.
My thoughts were to allow higher torquing of the bolts without stripping out the aluminum threads or deforming the aluminum clamp against the steel receiver dovetail.
 
I hope the Rokscope is awesome. But someone else can do the beta testing. I’ll wait a couple years before I crack open my wallet.
If they were actually engineering a scope you would have a valid point, but they aren’t. The aren’t reinventing the wheel with Light Optical, they are just adding their caveats to an already proven LO engineered solution. Now, will price point be worth it at such a small scale order, who knows. biggest unknown is probably glass/coating level, but mechanically think it’s safe to save LO doesn’t have a prominent issue in the Trijicon or NF lines they make, and we won’t see one here
 
Guys, randomly grabbing different materials/coatings/processes/etc. and throwing them together isn't how engineering works.

Good engineering is optimizing based on design and operational criteria.

For example, something that drive structural analyst's crazy is the fact you can make something weaker by "strengthening it up". If I had a dollar for every time a junior engineer stiffened up a part up to deal with one failure mode only to drive that extra stress into a different part of the system and create a whole new failure mode I wouldn't be working anymore and structural analyst's would have more hair.

You have to look at a design wholistically, swapping a material can sometimes means other changes are needed. What was optimized for material X will be a disaster if material Y is used unless Z is changed as well.

It's perfectly feasible to design a joint with AL threads that the high strength bolt breaks first on an over tq event. In fact, it's generally considered best practice (don't tell Ford though).

But to run a hypothetical, if the dovetail is not stiff enough, moving to a stiffer material (i.e. Ti) for the dovetail clamps keeping all other things equal (might be impossible without changes paradoxically, but remember this is a hypothetical) it could take more force to "pry" the dovetail apart. BUT we don't know that is the root failure mode, and if it is it could be addressed easily/cheaply by adding extra Al around the dovetail, making the dovetail on the ring longer, etc.

Don't forget while AL and Ti both are not great from a galling perspective. Its messy, and there are plenty of exceptions, but generally Ti is worse for galling.

Mind your ALL your boundary diagrams and conditions with intense scrutiny.
 
If they were actually engineering a scope you would have a valid point, but they aren’t. The aren’t reinventing the wheel with Light Optical, they are just adding their caveats to an already proven LO engineered solution. Now, will price point be worth it at such a small scale order, who knows. biggest unknown is probably glass/coating level, but mechanically think it’s safe to save LO doesn’t have a prominent issue in the Trijicon or NF lines they make, and we won’t see one here
Ok well, you have a point, but at the same time, they also didn’t manufacture the Rokstock either and that roll out wasn’t exactly smooth.
 
Ok well, you have a point, but at the same time, they also didn’t manufacture the Rokstock either and that roll out wasn’t exactly smooth.
Show us on the doll where the Rokstok hurt you.

UM has owned up to Rokstok and admitted that they messed up on their promised time lines. They have been working on ensuring that doesn’t happen again.

Why do we need to keep beating a dead horse in a thread that has nothing to do with it?
 
Show us on the doll where the Rokstok hurt you.

UM has owned up to Rokstok and admitted that they messed up on their promised time lines. They have been working on ensuring that doesn’t happen again.

Why do we need to keep beating a dead horse in a thread that has nothing to do with it?
Show us on the doll where you like UM to please you.
 
New to the forum. I just ordered some UM rings last week, but I have not received them yet. I have noticed the torque that was stated in the video instructions is different that the written instructions on the website. This thread has me more confused. What should I torque them at? 55-60 lbs. and 28 lbs. with thread locker? Thanks.
 
Ok well, you have a point, but at the same time, they also didn’t manufacture the Rokstock either and that roll out wasn’t exactly smooth.

I’d didn’t keep up with Rokstock so I have no idea if they were doing final finish work them selves or not. I know it sounded like they where using molds instead of machine inlet, which is no different then peak stocks and if you have Remington clone, it’s going to be a work in progress since there are minute differences.

I don’t suspect any finish work on scopes though, unless you get color ring options
 
New to the forum. I just ordered some UM rings last week, but I have not received them yet. I have noticed the torque that was stated in the video instructions is different that the written instructions on the website. This thread has me more confused. What should I torque them at? 55-60 lbs. and 28 lbs. with thread locker? Thanks.

The higher ones.
 
I was less worried about these rings last week, but after thinking about it for a while, I really don’t like this whole situation. Clamping to the tikka rail is just a difficult task from the start. I think permanently epoxying a good rail like the Murphys precision one to my tikka action and using a good set of pic rings would be more reliable. His steel one is 6oz and the titanium one is 3.6oz I think. They add some weight for sure which is a negative. I probably won’t act on it but it has me thinking.
 
I was less worried about these rings last week, but after thinking about it for a while, I really don’t like this whole situation. Clamping to the tikka rail is just a difficult task from the start. I think permanently epoxying a good rail like the Murphys precision one to my tikka action and using a good set of pic rings would be more reliable. His steel one is 6oz and the titanium one is 3.6oz I think. They add some weight for sure which is a negative. I probably won’t act on it but it has me thinking.

Sure. Or maybe the people with collectively several hundred thousand rounds of experience on the rings might have a better idea if there is a real issue when mounted correctly.
 
Sure. Or maybe the people with collectively several hundred thousand rounds of experience on the rings might have a better idea if there is a real issue when mounted correctly.
That’s a good reminder. My mind sits on things and makes me question everything. I do think that bearing steel to steel from a slotted ring to a pic rail is a better system than pure shear in the case with the tikka. But as you said you and lots of other folks have had no issues with them, so if installed and torqued correctly they won’t move. I’ll go with that.
 
Yeah, but mine were installed correctly from the start according to the manufacturer. Now they’re not.

Quit covering for their blunder. It’s not a good look.
 
That’s a good reminder. My mind sits on things and makes me question everything. I do think that bearing steel to steel from a slotted ring to a pic rail is a better system than pure shear in the case with the tikka. But as you said you and lots of other folks have had no issues with them, so if installed and torqued correctly they won’t move. I’ll go with that.


If there were an issue mounted as I have laid out, I would be the very first person to make it public.

Integrated pic rails and rings are the best option available, but I can’t say that a bolt rail properly installed (bonded) is better in durability than the UM rings installed as I laid out. Both have seen heinous abuse and use without issue.
 
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