UM Tikka bolt handles

WyldGoose

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Oct 16, 2022
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AZ
Did you guys Loctite your balls?
I used Rocksett on mine. Usually, a little goes a long way but there’s a good size cavity in the ball knob that it seemed to keep running into leaving the threads barely coated.
Third time was the charm and it’s on for good now.
 

9.3koolaid

Lil-Rokslider
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Alaska
I used paint pen on mine and had it loosen up. Just coarse threads? Planning on rocksett to not have to think about it.
 

mxgsfmdpx

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I used paint pen on mine and had it loosen up. Just coarse threads? Planning on rocksett to not have to think about it.
There’s a huge void and the coarse threads need a bunch of it. My first one came loose too after paint penning.
 

Marbles

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Mine actually arrived last night. I initially used Rokset and heated the components, it did not set up well and broke free easily, so I switched to nail polish.

On both my Rokstok and the factory stock, the ball does not contact the stock and has about 1/16" of clearance.

I like the feel of this. It is an improvement over factory so far (I'll see if my opinion stays the same after more use). The MDT knob that goes over the factory handle was not, nor was an extended Lumley handle.
 

Marbles

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Well, today I could still spin the balls off easily and the nail polish was still wet. So, cleaned in acetone and used blue locktite, a few hours later and I cannot spin the balls off.

I wander how many locktite failures are due to people not shaking the tub before using. I have only ht locktite not set if I forgot to shake it up.
 

mxgsfmdpx

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Well, today I could still spin the balls off easily and the nail polish was still wet. So, cleaned in acetone and used blue locktite, a few hours later and I cannot spin the balls off.

I wander how many locktite failures are due to people not shaking the tub before using. I have only ht locktite not set if I forgot to shake it up.
Take some wide mouth channel locks, wrap the teeth in a rag as to not scratch the ball, and twist that bitch tight tight with whatever “bonding agent” you’re using. They aren’t going anywhere after that.

This one below has zero bonding agent, and was just tightened using the channel lock method. It’s been on 6 flights now, leaving for its 7th on Thursday. Been through a bit of hell on 3 hunts, tons of shooting days, it hasn’t budged. I can’t get it come loose by hand at all.

Has a little bit of marring from the channel locks, doesn’t hurt anything.

IMG_9283.jpeg

IMG_9284.jpeg
 

Bowfinn

Lil-Rokslider
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Jan 6, 2019
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107
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Anchorage, Alaska
Whish I could find the stuff in AK, or ship it. Not had luck with either.
Buy one of these arrow insert glues. They like Loctite 380 are both a rubber toughened cyanoacrylate. My guess is that they are Loctite 380 rebranded.
 

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Marbles

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Take some wide mouth channel locks, wrap the teeth in a rag as to not scratch the ball, and twist that bitch tight tight with whatever “bonding agent” you’re using. They aren’t going anywhere after that.

This one below has zero bonding agent, and was just tightened using the channel lock method. It’s been on 6 flights now, leaving for its 7th on Thursday. Been through a bit of hell on 3 hunts, tons of shooting days, it hasn’t budged. I can’t get it come loose by hand at all.

Has a little bit of marring from the channel locks, doesn’t hurt anything.

View attachment 785883

View attachment 785884
Well, it took more force, but after the loctite I was still able to remove my balls by hand. One had cured fully, one was cred on the threads, but had et loctite in the gaps.

So, I got a peice of leather and some channel locks, no waiting for thigs to cure and it is impossible for me to unscrew them by hand and not marks on my balls.

Thanks @mxgsfmdpx.

Previously I have used rags for this and left marks, which made me hesitant. But it was that or keep trying adhesives every few days.
 

mxgsfmdpx

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Well, it took more force, but after the loctite I was still able to remove my balls by hand. One had cured fully, one was cred on the threads, but had et loctite in the gaps.

So, I got a peice of leather and some channel locks, no waiting for thigs to cure and it is impossible for me to unscrew them by hand and not marks on my balls.

Thanks @mxgsfmdpx.

Previously I have used rags for this and left marks, which made me hesitant. But it was that or keep trying adhesives every few days.
👍🏻
 

Dobermann

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I have not used it, and do not know about it. It sounds like it would work fine.
Here's an update on using Loctite 480.

TLDR: I didn't move fast enough, and now have a ball sticking off the end of the exposed threaded area. If I can't fix, then I've possibly just destroyed a UM bolt handle!

Long version: Loctite 480 (and 380) state 90 seconds:

1731730454038.png

90 seconds is not the full story, and easy to use ... not so much. Here's what happened: I degreased UM bolt thread and inside knob (a fair amount of grease/oil, so don't skip this step!).

Applied 480, and went to assemble. Ball caught strongly on first quarter turn that I thought it must have been cross-threaded. I quickly removed and reattempted. Same outcome. Removed and reattempted - when I felt it catch, I knew it wasn't cross-threaded, so started screwing on with as much hand strength possible. Ball fully caught in perhaps only one turn, and was locked in place. Wrench and pliers couldn't remove.

I had a second handle and knob. This time, degreased and tested dry assembly a few times, making sure no cross-threading and perfect line-up. Applied Loctite 480. Went to screw on an the slight catch again - then screwed it on as fast as I could. Halfway along the short threaded section, this became hard. Had to use all my hand strength to get it to the end.

Sound wacky? I thought so too, so dug up the full data sheet - here's the answers:

1731730853041.png

1731730906620.png

My temp was about 22 deg C and RH was about 60-65%.

My guess is the first balls-up was about 20-30 seconds, and the one that only just worked was about 5-10 seconds.

Lesson - if you're going to use Loctite 480 (and possibly 380), work fast folks! Because this is a bit of an understatement:

1731731180480.png
 
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Marbles

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Here's an update on using Loctite 480.

TLDR: I didn't move fast enough, and now have a ball sticking off the end of the exposed threaded area. If I can't fix, then I've possibly just destroyed a UM bolt handle!

Long version: Loctite 480 (and 380) state 90 seconds:

View attachment 791644

90 seconds is not the full story, and easy to use ... not so much. Here's what happened: I degreased UM bolt thread and inside knob (a fair amount of grease/oil, so don't skip this step!).

Applied 480, and went to assemble. Ball caught strongly on first quarter turn that I thought it must have been cross-threaded. I quickly removed and reattempted. Same outcome. Removed and reattempted - when I felt it catch, I knew it wasn't cross-threaded, so started screwing on with as much hand strength possible. Ball fully caught in perhaps only one turn, and was locked in place. Wrench and pliers couldn't remove.

I had a second handle and knob. This time, degreased and tested dry assembly a few times, making sure no cross-threading and perfect line-up. Applied Loctite 480. Went to screw on an the slight catch again - then screwed it on as fast as I could. Halfway along the short threaded section, this became hard. Had to use all my hand strength to get it to the end.

Sound wacky? I thought so too, so dug up the full data sheet - here's the answers:

View attachment 791648

View attachment 791649

My temp was about 22 deg C and RH was about 60-65%.

My guess is the first balls-up was about 20-30 seconds, and the one that only just worked was about 5-10 seconds.

Lesson - if you're going to use Loctite 480 (and possibly 380), work fast folks! Because this is a bit of an understatement:

View attachment 791654
Acetone should dissolve a CA based glue like 480. Let it soak for 24 hours and see.

Edit: Sounds like applying it to the last 3 or so threads with the ball mostly on already might be the best way to use it. I would have done it the same way as you on the first try though
 
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