Ultralight Tikka .300WM Build: Seeking advice on folding stocks/cheek weld.

[grfox92]

Im going to go ahead and say what everyone is beating around the bush here....Im not trying to hurt your feelings or shit on your build....but....

I think this is a mistake. That gun is going to recoil so bad, you will never see what you shoot at once you pull the trigger. Ive spent a lot of time behind a 300 WM Tikka with a brake in a factory stock. The only way I know what I am hitting is the sound of the steel ringing in my headphones.

Even a braked Tikka 300WM put me in physical pain the next day after about 50 rounds the day before, i shoot about 100x more than the average guy and dont ever have a sore shoulder. I absolutely hated shooting that gun.

You have a magnum bolt face Tikka that has an intended use of a backcountry rifle. You have mentioned a HNT 26 and a suppressor and a carbon barrel. Here is the move, save a ton of money and order a 16 to 18" prefit Stainless steel Tikka Barrel chambered in 6.5 PRC. Drop it in a HNT26 or some other folding or collapsible chassis, put a quality suppressor on the end. Now you have a shoot able, short, compact, backcountry rifle.

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[grfox92]

I will also add, if you are dead set on keeping it a 300wm, just cut the barrel down and put it in a Rokstock. That is just about the I only stock that will mitigate recoil enough to enable you to spot impacts.

Tikka / Sako are the best barrel makers in the industry. Taking off their barrel to screw on someone elses carbon barrel will honestly do nothing to help you.

Edit, if you have to proceed using the current rifle as is, and in the factory stock, there are options for quality cheek risers from Victor. IMO they are the best option for a quality cheek riser for a factory stock. You can also buy a brake quality brake to reduce recoil by about 50%. I really like APA Fat Bastard for this. Just make sure you wear plugs and muffs at the range and you ABSOLUTELY MUST have ear protection in hunting situations or you will cause permanent hearing loss.

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[K9kodi]

I’m not in the area I need to hike miles and really need a light rifle, butttttt I wanted one. I also wanted a super light , nice to me rifle. It came with a threaded barrel so I figured if I was dumping the money into the rifle. Might as well suppress it as well. Then I thought to myself, why did I just buy the lightest rifle I found that I liked, the most maneuverable and then decide to add a long ass suppressor. It now lives on my pcc sbr.

Either way, it’s a carbon stocked , carbon barreled 300 wm and w the brake I think it’s less recoil then the 270 tikka t3 lite.

 

[Raghorn54]

DCWrinkler - To answer your cheek weld question: one quick, cheap and easy solution is a kydex cheek riser kit (Mountain Tactical, Matthews Fabrication are two manufacturers I know of). I’ve put the mountain tactical ones on all my Tikkas. Four and counting. Requires you to drill the stock, which is super easy with a handheld drill or press. Have used this solution on my 22” T3X 300WM for three years. Has been a great rifle for me, deadly with the 195gr factory ELDMs.

But no matter what, I’d run a brake or a can. This makes the recoil very manageable, though I’ll say personally I still shoot better with lighter recoiling setups (T3X in 6.5 PRC, CTR in 308).

Also, I’d avoid the scythe Ti like the plague. Ask me how I know…