Turret Not Level

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Dec 28, 2019
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I just mounted my Leupold VX5 3-15x44 and using my Wheeler Level system I couldn’t get the scope level. I repeated my references and have always been able to get scope reticles level. With the VX5 and the level on the turret the reticles were always canted to the left. I ended up one level reference point and eye balling it I got it pretty level.

Anyone have turrets not be level to the reticle before?


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Brendan

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Yes. You can't reliably level off the turret. Try the bottom of the scope (180 degrees to top turret) or use something like this:


And, defensive edge sells a nice leveling kit that works if you have a flat on the bottom of the scope:

 
OP
General RE LEE
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I have the exact same scope. Same problem. Sent it back to Leupold and received it back. Much better.

Interesting. I was able to get it just fine to my eye by manually rotating it while seated on a solid rest. Did Leupold indicate if the turret wasn’t level with the reticle it was a problem?


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They did not fully explain what they did other than send a sheet of paper back with calibration status.
My turret was not level with the reticle before I sent it out.
Not sure if it’s perfect but it’s a helluva lot closer. No cost, of course, other than shipping.
 
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I have 2, had the same problem with one and had to rely on my eye. The other went smooth as butter and seemed true.
 

Wapiti1

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It isn't uncommon for the turret cap (not the screw on cover, the dial itself) to not be level. Take the dial off and use the post to level the scope. If the post is not level with the reticle, there is a problem. I see this on many different brands, particularly the ones with 3 set screws to hold the dial on.

Jeremy
 

sndmn11

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I've never seen a scope manufacturer claim that the top of turret was absolutely perpendicular to plum. I have seen some expensive scopes come with manuals that specifically say not to level off the top of the turret.....
 

rayporter

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"If the reticle is canted then Adjusting and dialing will be off. "

that is the reason for the plumb line. it will be perfect every time. did you ever notice how much the bubble in a level can have several tenths of an inch that you have to guess at to figure the center?

if it tracks up the line something else is off. just imagine all the parts of the system that has to have been made perfectly level [ or verticle]

first you have a round bottom stock that you must figure out how to hold in the same place every time

then the bedding in the stock- who says it was drilled verticle? some smiths use a plumb line for this!

the action and bases? drilling holes in both must have been verticle. and bases? who says they are level across the top? think about that action going down the line and getting the screw holes drilled in the bottom, who is making sure they are on the bottom and then it gets turned over for the base holes on top.
zip zip drilled and out the door.



and then the scope [ which gets the blame- right or wrong]
 

Lawnboi

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Run a plumb bob on the target at 50-100 yards. Align the vertical post when your rifles level to your liking, and torque it down.

I do throw a level on my dial, but don’t count on it. Also helps to check if the reticle is canted in the scope.
 

WCB

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Also helps to check if the reticle is canted in the scope.

Agree with above. Level the reticle using a plumb line of some sort. once the reticle is "level" check and see visually if the turret looks canted to either side. If all looks good lock the scope down, put back on the plumb line and dial the scope up and down and see if it stays on the plumb line. There is a possibility that the reticle is turned/canted in the scope. In the case of a canted reticle leveling alone off the reticle does you no good as dialing will not track correctly.
 

BCD

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For those using the plumb bob method, how are you verifying that the rifle itself is level before leveling the reticle with the plumb line? Are you using a level on the scope rail and a barrel clamp level first?

Thanks!
 

Brendan

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For those using the plumb bob method, how are you verifying that the rifle itself is level before leveling the reticle with the plumb line? Are you using a level on the scope rail and a barrel clamp level first?

Thanks!
Use the tool I linked in post #2. Works like a charm.
 

CBECK61

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For those using the plumb bob method, how are you verifying that the rifle itself is level before leveling the reticle with the plumb line? Are you using a level on the scope rail and a barrel clamp level first?

Thanks!
Leveling off the rail is only a good method if its a quality manufactured rifle and rail. Rails are not always level to the gun. The most important part is that the bubble level you are mounting to your scope is level to the plain that the scope tracks. The scope being level to the gun isn't nearly as important. I mount the scope to the rifle as level as possible then use the plumb to mount my bubble level to the scope. I think make sure the scope tracks up and down perfectly to the plumb line. Most scope company accept that the reticle isn't perfectly level to the tracking of the turret.
 

Wapiti1

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The tool Brendan lists is the best that I have used. Very simple and dead on every time. You align the elevation turret center line of travel to the bore. This is done by leveling the turret post, or the bottom of the turret housing. The reticle alignment isn't actually relevant, but any quality optic will have an aligned reticle. Think about it, the barrel follows the mechanical movement of the turret. The reticle alignment is only important for hold off to off center aiming points on the reticle.

I see several notes on the plumb bob and reticle alignment to that. That isn't correct if you want the barrel to track with the turret. It works, but only if the reticle is aligned to the turret. Not the other way around.

Jeremy
 
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