Tuning Question

[ozyclint]

I too find it hard to comprehend how a 340 with only 200gr up front out of a 48# bow isn't too stiff, but hey if it's working for you go for it.

Is there an arrow that exists that is stiff enough to handle a 70# bow with 350gr up front??

 

[Samdemarais]

I know very little about tuning a recurve so I didn't know if there was anything I could do to get the nock closer to level. I mostly just want to make sure I'm not way out in left field and missing something simple that could be wrong with my set up. I killed a couple deer with it this past season so now I'm just trying to maximize my set up and make it as good and efficient as I possibly can.

I shot it through paper and got a nock high tear. Lowered the nock and it got worse. Tried all different spines and point weights and then started to raise the nock until I arrived where I'm at. Bullet hole with a bare shaft and it's hitting at 30 with fletched arrows.

I have tried all different brace heights from 7 1/8 all the way to the recommended 7 3/4 by adjusting in 1/8" increments. I have a bow square somewhere I'll have to dig around and find it. I am use to just eyeballing and adjusting to what feels and works the best. So using that process with this recurve I have ended up in a position that really does not make sense to me as to why I ended up there.

I'll find my bow square and adjust and measure everything back to default and rework from there. I have shot the Simmons Swamp Sharks out of this set up with the 3" trad vanes and have not had any kind of arrow kick that I can pick up on. I probably should leave it alone but since I have time to tinker I'd like to get my nocking point down to a normal place. It irritates me not knowing how to fix it.

Do Toelke's generally tune better with weaker spines? From everyone's experience what would be a good general spine and point weight to start at?

I shoot a chinook, 48@28 drawing right around 28. Dan told me to shoot a 400 cut to 30.25 with 225 up front. That is very slightly stiff for me so I cut to 30.75 and it’s shooting well. Are your shooting off the shelf or a rest? I use a weather rest. I’m probably 5/8+ nock high

 

[galamb]

You might be aiming based on where you see the tip of the arrow such that after you adjust the nock point you are holding the bow a little higher or lower based on where you see the arrow and that is offsetting the change you just made to the nock point.

When I was first trying to learn to shoot instinctively I was looking for (reference points) on the bow itself and the tip of the arrow is "conveniently right there" - took me a good bit to "look past it".

You can try making a "make shift" single pin sight - unfold and tape a paperclip or something to the bow and use that to sight with - adjust your nock point and forget about where you see the arrow - your impact point should move up and down if you do that.

Our draw length is the same and I cut my arrows at between 30 and 30.5 - my bow (custom Bow River take down recurve) pulls 51 lbs at 30" and I shoot 340's but they have a 180 grain ethics insert and a 125 grain head - so with "weight up front" a 340 is not totally out of the question for a 48 pound bow at your draw but shooting a lighter front end I would be using 400's (which I shoot as well in my lighter set-up).

 

[Wrench]

Old goat gave you good advice on the broadhead. The reality is that we want to always hit where we aim, regardless of what's on the end of the arrow or what is written on the side. If you are getting good arrow flight from 5 yards out to the target with fields and wide heads.....you're there.

Tuning is a wild card and every bow and shooter has idiosyncrasies that are unique and prohibit blanket facts from applying every time. Yes, toelke bows do tend to shoot well with weaker spines. That comes from my experience with 3 of them and that rabbit hole began when Jared Toelke suggested I back off the spine. It worked for me.

Lot's of things that get missed can mess with tuning. If I shoot a toelke string on most easton nocks, it is too tight and induces bizarre reactions to arrow flight. Nock fit is important. Brace height is important. My bows are MUCH quieter when they are at brace and after a few years I can tell by shooting when I am a couple twists in or out.

My personal journey led me back to square one more than a few times as I learned to shoot better and understand more. It's a glorious yet frustrating journey that can have you wanting to snap that stick over your knee one day and be incredibly proud in the month of September.

 

[Patriot2]

I shot traditional for 25 years and never heard of shooting plastic vanes off a shelf. You need feather fletch in my opinion. Feather will fold back and lay flat against the arrow shaft, the plastic vane is going to bounce the arrow away from the shelf and riser as it passes by every time. I can't imagine good arrow flight with that setup.

 

[bisblue]

I shoot a very similar set up. A reflex deflex longbow a friend made me. Also got a matching toelke this summer. 64 whip 2 piece #[email protected], other is the same specs.
I ended up shooting a 500 spine black eagle at 32.5" with 255 grains up front to get good flight on the slow mo camera and bare shafts.
The toelke chrono speed was 5 fps or so faster than my other reflex deflex.

 

[Undomesticated]

I shot traditional for 25 years and never heard of shooting plastic vanes off a shelf. You need feather fletch in my opinion. Feather will fold back and lay flat against the arrow shaft, the plastic vane is going to bounce the arrow away from the shelf and riser as it passes by every time. I can't imagine good arrow flight with that setup.

It can work well on a narrow-shelfed bow. 3-fletch with cock feather at 3:00. The shelf has to be narrow enough for the 7:00 fletching to clear completely. Arrow spine needs to be on-point, and a lower-profile vane like a bohning bronco helps.

 

[Wrench]

Trad vanes. They're a new type of super flexible vanes that behave much like feathers.

 

[Undomesticated]

Trad vanes. They're a new type of super flexible vanes that behave much like feathers.

Not a big fan. I have a hell of a time fletching them with a Bitz. Others report no issues.

 

[Wrench]

I had one batch that was allergic to glue. Two colors on one arrow....only one color stuck.

 

[bowhuntercoop]

Not a big fan. I have a hell of a time fletching them with a Bitz. Others report no issues.

I use a Arizona mini for em, they fletch like a breeze with super glue. My only complaint is they tear shooting groups, but they work well in the rain and wet conditions.