Tuning Question

[D.Rose]

I have a Toelke Chinook and I am having to run the arrow significantly nock high to get good tuning results. Although I can get my bare shaft to group out to 30 yards with fletched arrows I’m not sure my set up is correct. I’ve been shooting traditional for a little over a year so I am pretty ignorant when it comes to tuning and the correct adjustments.

I have tried multiple different spines and point weights and I can only get the nock to move left and right but not up and down. I’m shooting 3 under and have tinkered with finger pressures and done everything I know to do. Any ideas of what I could change or do?

 

[D.Rose]

 

[Wrench]

How much nock height is that? How's it tillered, do you cant or shoot vertical and what weight, draw length and arrow spine/pt wt?

 

[D.Rose]

Dont know exact measurement I dont have a bow square. Bow was tillered for 3 under when I ordered. I shoot vertical. Draw length is 29.5, and the arrow is a 340 spine cut to 30" with 200 up front. I tied a few diff nock points and adjusted up and down then just decided to throw on a brass nock as it was easier for me to tinker with.

 

[Rob5589]

Dont know exact measurement I dont have a bow square. Bow was tillered for 3 under when I ordered. I shoot vertical. Draw length is 29.5, and the arrow is a 340 spine cut to 30" with 200 up front. I tied a few diff nock points and adjusted up and down then just decided to throw on a brass nock as it was easier for me to tinker with.

What draw weight? I'm new to it as well but what I found was nock point height isn't super set in stone and running high isn't a big deal. Without a square you don't know how high it truly is. May not be as much as you think.

 

[D.Rose]

48 pounds.

 

[Wrench]

340s in a toelke must be 60 plus pounds?

 

[D.Rose]

I have tried everything from 500's 400's and 340's. Everything from 100 to 300 grains up front. The 400's and 500's tear left through paper with all different amounts of point weight. The only thing I can get to bullet hole and bareshaft is the 340's with 200 grains.

 

[butcherboy]

Looks like a good group to me. I shoot 340’s with 225 up front. 45# @ 28”. I draw to 30 and anchor just under my cheekbone and lock my thumb behind my jaw. I’m actually shooting 50-51#. I also shoot with two fingers under instead of three. Sometimes I go with 3 but end up dragging my ring finger too much. Switch back to 2 under and everything goes back to smooth shooting. My brace height is set to 7 1/4” and 5/8” nock high. I’m not shooting what you are but this works for me.

 

[sneaky]

That doesn't really look that high in all honesty, and if it shoots good why worry? Results are what matter, not someone else's opinion on the net. If bare shafts and fletched are grouping together out to 30yds, let that sucker eat.

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

 

[D.Rose]

I know very little about tuning a recurve so I didn't know if there was anything I could do to get the nock closer to level. I mostly just want to make sure I'm not way out in left field and missing something simple that could be wrong with my set up. I killed a couple deer with it this past season so now I'm just trying to maximize my set up and make it as good and efficient as I possibly can.

I shot it through paper and got a nock high tear. Lowered the nock and it got worse. Tried all different spines and point weights and then started to raise the nock until I arrived where I'm at. Bullet hole with a bare shaft and it's hitting at 30 with fletched arrows.

 

[Rob5589]

I know very little about tuning a recurve so I didn't know if there was anything I could do to get the nock closer to level. I mostly just want to make sure I'm not way out in left field and missing something simple that could be wrong with my set up. I killed a couple deer with it this past season so now I'm just trying to maximize my set up and make it as good and efficient as I possibly can.

I shot it through paper and got a nock high tear. Lowered the nock and it got worse. Tried all different spines and point weights and then started to raise the nock until I arrived where I'm at. Bullet hole with a bare shaft and it's hitting at 30 with fletched arrows.

I tried paper without any real success. I use slow mo video on my phone to watch arrow flight as well as bare shafting. The video is/was extremely helpful, for me anyway. I picked that up from Clay Hayes.

 

[GreenNDark Timber]

Don’t argue with a good bare shaft at 30 yds…there’s no such thing as a false perfect

 

[Fling-One]

Heck of a group at 30 with that bow. If it were me I would get on with hunting, won’t get much better than that.

 

[Ohiohuntr]

Buy a square and have someone film u from behind to make sure the arrow isn’t acting funny, bareshaft tuning is probably gonna work better for you than paper, fyi I’m no expert

 

[Wrench]

My Toelkes are all 5/8+ for nock height.

I was doing pretty well with 400's with 200 up front (#50 and #57) and when I was talking to Jared about it he was surprised that I could shoot well with stiff shafts. He talked me into trying a 500 with 200 and it came together nice.

But... if you can shoot that well and it's not noisy....you're where you need to be.

 

[D.Rose]

What exactly would cause a recurve to come out of the bow nock high? Contact, high nocking point, or weak spine?

 

[Rob5589]

High nock point, possibly arrow bouncing off shelf. I had a hard time tuning my first stick and found I was getting a false weak even with a .340 from 46lbs. That's when I went to slow mo video and the light came on.

 

[oldgoat]

I find it hard to believe a .340 would be where you would end up! Maybe if you were drawing 31"plus. Once you get where you think you are tuned, then it's time to screw on a wide cut broadhead like a Simmons and see how that flies, that's your benchmark for tuned in my book! And buy a bow Square, they sell a plastic one on Custom King, they work better and last longer than any metal one I've tried, order a couple, keep one on your bench on one in your bow case and cut down on the guessing! Because without knowing if your specs are in, that could throw off what arrow you need and keep your bow from shooting optimally! Here's a link to Toelke spec guidelines

Customer Resources

scroll down for bow length chart by draw length Brace heights Recommended brace heights are what we have found best for tuning with arr...

montanabows.blogspot.com

 

[D.Rose]

I have tried all different brace heights from 7 1/8 all the way to the recommended 7 3/4 by adjusting in 1/8" increments. I have a bow square somewhere I'll have to dig around and find it. I am use to just eyeballing and adjusting to what feels and works the best. So using that process with this recurve I have ended up in a position that really does not make sense to me as to why I ended up there.

I'll find my bow square and adjust and measure everything back to default and rework from there. I have shot the Simmons Swamp Sharks out of this set up with the 3" trad vanes and have not had any kind of arrow kick that I can pick up on. I probably should leave it alone but since I have time to tinker I'd like to get my nocking point down to a normal place. It irritates me not knowing how to fix it.

Do Toelke's generally tune better with weaker spines? From everyone's experience what would be a good general spine and point weight to start at?