Tuning discrepancy

[Bmarcks31]

So my RX7 ultra is shooting a mild but noticeable left tear that I’ve struggled to get rid of (don’t have a press and shop is >1 hr away so haven’t shimmed it) and on video I can see the nock end of my bareshafts kicking to the left when they come out of the bow. Spine should be good based in victory’s calculator- 250 spine with ~15% FOC at 75 lbs and 30 inch draw. I think my form is reasonably good.
This all said, my broadheads are landing with my field points.
Should I care? Haven’t shot past 50 yards yet due to available space but wondering if it will affect accuracy/forgiveness at longer ranges.

 

[Somthingoriginal]

Your gonna lose penetration if your arrows are fish tailing. Before driving to shop I would experiment with my grip.

 

[Mighty Mouse]

Broadheads hitting with field points is the ultimate goal of tuning. If they're hitting together out to your max hunting range, I would call it good and not worry about a slight paper tear up close.

If you do want to try to get rid of the nock left tear without pressing the bow, shift your rest slightly to the right and see if the tear improves.

 

[dtrkyman]

Easiest check for spine issues is to play with draw weight, I assume you are maxed out at 75 so no way to increase. Also playing with point weight.

Minor variance in draw length makes huge differences in tuning!!!

Shoot a bareshaft at 20 and see what it does!

 

[Billy Goat]

Depending on your speed, and the drag you have with your vane setup, you might have your field points/bh together, but still not have ideal arrow flight. An arrow at that length and spine with 15% must be pretty heavy. That can sometimes cover up issues.

Ultimately the goal for me is broadheads with my field points, but if you know that arrow isn't flying straight initially out of the bow, I'd be fixing it.

It can effect the forgiveness, it will also rob energy from the arrow costing you penetration and trajectory.

 

[87TT]

Try a bare shaft? At the target not the paper.
Maybe time for a press. I built one and it works great on my Helix and Pro Defiant.
Check for s slight cam lean.

 

[MattB]

If your ultimate goal is to get good tears in paper at 3 feet, I would definitely spend the time to tweak your set-up. It your goal is to put a broadhead where it counts on a big game animal this fall, I would forget about the tear and spend that time practicing.

 

[Planopurist]

It may not be a “discrepancy”. What broadhead are you shooting? I wouldn’t worry “much” about things since your broadheads hit with field points out to 50 yards. You might just like at paper tears at varying distances 12, 15, and 20 yards. Arrow recovery could be delayed because of the dynamic spine of your particular arrows.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Samdemarais]

I wouldn’t worry about a paper tear. If you can shoot good groups with fixed blades at 50-60 yards that hit with your fields points that’s the goal

 

[BucksNBulls]

What is your center shot set at? I'm sitting at 3/4" with my 80lb 29" draw 250 spine and getting good bare shaft tears. BH also hitting with FP up to 80 yards. Oh, same bow.

 

[Zac]

What broadhead, and vane setup are you using?

 

[406unltd]

Gotta stop looking at paper once bh tuned. Simply because it doesn’t matter. I’d test the tune at your max distance and see what happens. If the bh is inside the fp arrows then it’s kinda hard to pick that bone. If it’s consistently outside the group in a particular location then make the adjustment. If I’m grouping well at max distance, I’m not touching it because that’s my goal. I try to keep myself squared away though with bs tuning. It keeps me in line from a form/shooting perspective, and also ensures that when I move to bh to finish the tune, everything is right.

 

[Bmarcks31]

Thanks for everyone’s thoughts and sorry for delayed reply
Shooting 29.5 inch Victory Rip TKOs 250 spine, 150 gr Day Six Evo broadheads, Ethics archery Al insert 25 gr and SS collar 40 gr, 3 fletch w/ AAE max stealth vanes in a moderate helical. Total weight 523 gr and 15% FOC.
Right handed RX7 ultra @75 lbs and 30”

I have it set up with the Hoyt QAD integrate rest that shows the (theoretical) center shot at 3/4” from the riser. Moving rest to the right didn’t clear up the left tear. Reading your suggestions, I put the rest back to center shot 3/4”, and played with my grip. Putting a little extra pressure on the finger (left) side of the riser seemed to clear up the tear, and bareshafts hit with fletched arrows 20-30 yards out but I did feel like I was torquing the bow more than seemed natural. And when I backed up with my broadheads, they were hitting a solid 6 inches to the right of my FPs. Ugh. Going back to my original grip, BHs hit with FPs again.

 

[Yobrevol]

I would recommend not trying to adjust your grip in a way that feels un-natural or hard to repeat. Secondly, don't worry about paper tears. If your broadhead arrows fly straight to a naked eye and hit with your field points your bow is "tuned" (assuming bow is within factory tolerances). Just shoot.

 

[sndmn11]

Cut a half to an inch off those arrows.

They will be more forgiving when leaving the bow right, you have already seen how your hand pressure can manipulate impact, now make the bow and arrow combo forgiving so you can shoot naturally and have margin for shooter error inconsistencies.

 

[Syng2015]

My BS arrows hit way off from my broadheads and field points, but fly smoothly and don't wobble. I don't hunt with a BS, so as long as I'm getting stable flight I don't really care. I'd avoid really close shots if I were you, so that you can get stability before you hit the animal.

 

[Zac]

My BS arrows hit way off from my broadheads and field points, but fly smoothly and don't wobble. I don't hunt with a BS, so as long as I'm getting stable flight I don't really care. I'd avoid really close shots if I were you, so that you can get stability before you hit the animal.

Horrible advice

 

[Billy Goat]

My BS arrows hit way off from my broadheads and field points, but fly smoothly and don't wobble. I don't hunt with a BS, so as long as I'm getting stable flight I don't really care. I'd avoid really close shots if I were you, so that you can get stability before you hit the animal.

I'd bet good money that if your bareshafts don't fly with your field points, that your broadheads don't actually fly smoothly and without wobble.


You should actually be able to put a bareshaft where you want, vanes are just there to save it when you fork up.

 

[Syng2015]

That's the weird thing about the tune. Bareshaft flies straight and true out to 40, and my broadheads and field points are consistent out to 60. I've gotten 3" difference out to 93 yards with broadheads, but it's often too windy to practice that far.

The bareshaft just flies to the right by about a foot or more at 40. Straight, little to no wobble, but to the right. I've stopped trying to make sense of it. Bareshaft tune does not equal broadhead tune.

 

[4ester]

Try a bare shaft? At the target not the paper.
Maybe time for a press. I built one and it works great on my Helix and Pro Defiant.
Check for s slight cam lean.

Cam lean is completely normal with the older Hoyt’s but I’m not sure about the RX7s.

Paper tuning is just a starting point. I’d do some walk back tuning or bare shaft if your form and grip are correct.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk