Truck problems, new engine or new truck?

[GSPHUNTER]

To be clear, I haven't got a quote on a new engine. The 20k was what used pickups seem to be starting at

Well, you have to take the condition of the trucks general in consideration.. If it has been well taken care of and has no other issues, I think I would go with short block. I have a 04 Yukon XL 148k miles, which I have taken excellent care of, replaced items as they wore out, regular oil changed every 4000 miles+-. I can put a few thousand in every year if need be and not have $600 monthly payment to deal with. Another member mentioned getting second opinion, good idea.

 

[DangerRanger]

I bought my 11’ with 106k and it now has 220k and runs strong. My dads about to be on his 3rd 5.4 the first made it to 190 I think and the replacement reman has made it like 90 and is about to give out. The upper end on those 5.4s is problematic but he ran his with that diesel solenoid sounding nonsense for like 20k before giving up the ghost.

I think the 5.0 is a better engine but you’re right that’s it’s a garbage time to be shopping.

I wouldn’t be too concerned about a 100k mile coyote though. I’d rather have a 200k mile 5.0 than a 100k mile 5.4

Do it all over again probably would have bought a Toyota, even if it meant I had to wear my hat backwards and drink monster

 

[BwanaKubwa]

I'm not a fan of the 5.4's. Half the engine is shoved under the firewall. The solenoid issue also seems way too common. Maybe I'll get a tesla truck in the next decade and haul a generator around with me

 

[D S 319]

My dad and I have replaced 2 5.4s…they’re running great now. Probably did both for under 6k.

 

[Bear_Hunter]

I replaced the 5.4 (long block) in my super duty at 150,000 mi for about $5,500 at the dealer. The motor was technically fine, but had some serious leaks that'd cost almost the same to fix, so why not get a new motor? Plus it came with a 3 year unlimited mile warranty. Way cheaper than a new truck, and that was about 7 years ago. This is a horrible time to shop for a new rig. I second getting a second opinion, but shopping for a new/used rig would be my last option.

 

[JustJustin]

As others have already mentioned, now is a bad time to buy vehicles. I bought my CAR 3 years ago, with 42,000 miles for 12 or 13k. Within 100 miles of me, there's one almost identical (one year newer, same generation), same trim, with 112,000 (well over double the mileage mine had) listed for $15,800! One with 70,000 miles, lower trim level, a year older and a REBUILT title is listed for $10,200!
Trucks are even worse.
And I wouldn't trust the market to remain high for long.

If you absolutely must buy, I'd look for a 2000-2006 GM with a 5.3. Other than the transmission potentially going out at 180-250K, they run forever. I got one with 200k, with 20k on the rebuilt tranny for $3,000 two years ago (a Tahoe). I figured if the rebuilt tranny made it to 20k, it will go another >100k.
Those light duties are easy to work on and parts are cheap and available if it does need work.

 

[jjohnsonElknewbie]

If you absolutely must buy, I'd look for a 2000-2006 GM with a 5.3. Other than the transmission potentially going out at 180-250K, they run forever. I got one with 200k, with 20k on the rebuilt tranny for $3,000 two years ago (a Tahoe). I figured if the rebuilt tranny made it to 20k, it will go another >100k.
Those light duties are easy to work on and parts are cheap and available if it does need work.

I agree that GMs in that vintage run well. However, with few exceptions, most have rusted out rockers, cab corners, and rear quarters. They also eat rotors and brake lines. Even more madening, you will absolutely have the tailgate handle and door handles fail at some point, because they use plastic connectors to connect the steel linkage rods. In addition, if you take a close look at the frame, especially trucks that live on gravel, it will have severe corrosion. I bought my 2000 extended cab 4wd brand new, and its frame is a catstrophic failure. It has lived on gravel its whole life, but the amount of rust is inconceivable. Took the bed off a couple years ago to have a welder fix a crack and he couldn't find enough good surrounding steel to patch it. It's sad because that little 4.8 runs like a top and the shift on the floor 4wd has always been bulletproof.

My wife and i always joked that at some point I would just be driving around on a milk crate, steering wheel, and 4 wheels. As a result, and for the problems I and my friends have experienced, I would never recommend a GM truck from '991/2 through about 2010 to anybody. You'd be better off finding a pre-'991/2 (previous body style) in good shape in my opinion. Those trucks didn't rust as badly and still had steel on steel components.

 

[nobody]

Unfortunately I'm not surprised to hear your 5.4 is giving you fits. Ford has really fallen off into the abyss with their gas motors, the same problems plague the ecoboosts and other severe issues plague the 5.0 coyotes.

If you can, pick up a rebuild from Jasper with the variable cam timing system disabled. When locked out, the engines seem to go forever. You'll still have the same sluggish, under powered 5.4, but you shouldn't have any issues.

If you're handy, I've got 2 words for you: LS Swap

 

[JustJustin]

I agree that GMs in that vintage run well. However, with few exceptions, most have rusted out rockers, cab corners, and rear quarters. They also eat rotors and brake lines. Even more madening, you will absolutely have the tailgate handle and door handles fail at some point, because they use plastic connectors to connect the steel linkage rods. In addition, if you take a close look at the frame, especially trucks that live on gravel, it will have severe corrosion. I bought my 2000 extended cab 4wd brand new, and its frame is a catstrophic failure. It has lived on gravel its whole life, but the amount of rust is inconceivable. Took the bed off a couple years ago to have a welder fix a crack and he couldn't find enough good surrounding steel to patch it. It's sad because that little 4.8 runs like a top and the shift on the floor 4wd has always been bulletproof.

My wife and i always joked that at some point I would just be driving around on a milk crate, steering wheel, and 4 wheels. As a result, and for the problems I and my friends have experienced, I would never recommend a GM truck from '991/2 through about 2010 to anybody. You'd be better off finding a pre-'991/2 (previous body style) in good shape in my opinion. Those trucks didn't rust as badly and still had steel on steel components.

You are right about the tailgate and door handles. But all it takes is an occasional bit of maintenance with a can of WD40 and the tailgate latch is not a problem.
They are prone to body rust to some extent, but I know of plenty of those trucks with little to no body rust. My 2003 Tahoe has paint flaking off, but no body rust, even where the paint is gone- and I live in an area that gets dozens of small snows every year and the main roads are kept salted and so they are often wet. Again, "problem" solved by generic maintenance, specifically going to a car wash to wash the salt off. Oh. And I spray the undercarriage off too, and my frame doesn't have any severe rust problems.
Never heard of the brake rotors thing. If you're past 100,000 miles, it should be a replacement set of brake parts, in which case you get what you pay for. Also, the driver's driving habits determine consumable brake parts life.
Brake lines are either stainless steel or the fancy alloy nowadays, so I'm not sure how they would know whether to be "eaten" by the truck or not.

I'm sorry if it sounds like I'm trying to fight you, that is not my goal. I also don't want to start an argument. It's just that till I got done reading your post, it sounded like those trucks are very bad. I'm just trying to give the OP a more balanced idea about the less nearly bulletproof parts of those vehicles.

 

[browning2480]

You are right about the tailgate and door handles. But all it takes is an occasional bit of maintenance with a can of WD40 and the tailgate latch is not a problem.
They are prone to body rust to some extent, but I know of plenty of those trucks with little to no body rust. My 2003 Tahoe has paint flaking off, but no body rust, even where the paint is gone- and I live in an area that gets dozens of small snows every year and the main roads are kept salted and so they are often wet. Again, "problem" solved by generic maintenance, specifically going to a car wash to wash the salt off. Oh. And I spray the undercarriage off too, and my frame doesn't have any severe rust problems.
Never heard of the brake rotors thing. If you're past 100,000 miles, it should be a replacement set of brake parts, in which case you get what you pay for. Also, the driver's driving habits determine consumable brake parts life.
Brake lines are either stainless steel or the fancy alloy nowadays, so I'm not sure how they would know whether to be "eaten" by the truck or not.

I'm sorry if it sounds like I'm trying to fight you, that is not my goal. I also don't want to start an argument. It's just that till I got done reading your post, it sounded like those trucks are very bad. I'm just trying to give the OP a more balanced idea about the less nearly bulletproof parts of those vehicles.

I have an 03 Tahoe and someone forgot to tell it that it was supposed to eat brake lines. Factory ones are still going strong at 302,000 miles and 19 years lol.

I do have some rocker rust and wish I would have washed it during the winters. But for a $1,000 I can have them all replaced and sprayed with bed liner, which is my plan.

 

[jjohnsonElknewbie]

The OP can buy what he wants and like you guys, I'm trying to help him out. Like I said, I have a 2000 Silverado extended cab. It's lived on gravel and suffered with road sand/salt/brine its entire life as well. Buddy has a 2001 extended cab LS 5.3 that lived in town, but was a hunting truck. He bought is with 50k from his father. My brother has a 2008 3/4 ton crew cab duramax that lives on gravel. Another buddy has a 2003 half ton crew cab HD with either the 5.3 or 6.0 that lives on gravel. My other brother had a 2005ish 3/4 ton avalanche that lived in town. All of these trucks have over 150k miles. Below are the most common issues for all of these trucks, and we were all Chevy guys growing up.

Rotor failure- factory OEM rotors were composite, not steel, and could not be turned down. The factory did not have the brakes calibrated correctly, and the rears wear out before the fronts. By the time you heard them griding, they were shot.
Brake lines- all 4 of these trucks have had brake line failures caused by pin holes that led to dump of brake fluid
Emergency brake- for trucks that spend a lot of time on gravel, the e-brakes are known to seize up and the linkages are known to snap as well
Spare tire linkage- all of these trucks spare tire pulleys froze up and had to be cut off to free the spare
Inner and outer door handles- plastic couplers fail on the inner door handles for the extended cab models "suicide" doors. Outer door handles often, not always, fail.
Tailgate handle- failed on all these trucks. Just drive around and see how many of this vintage GM tucks have the trim piece missing. That's likely because the handle failed and they had to take it apart.
Rust/corrosion- the 2000, 2001, and 2003 have zero rocker panels or cab corners left. The rear quarters are rusted out above the wheel wells.

On the bright side, the powertrains and electronics in these trucks ran very well, and none of us ever had to replace a motor, tranny, or transfer case. Hell, the AC in my 2000 is still ice cold!

My 2000 doesn't owe me a dime, and it did everything I ever asked it to do and more. However, it did nickle and dime me to death with the issues stated above, and for those reasons I wouldn't recommend a guy buying one used.

 

[JustJustin]

The OP can buy what he wants and like you guys, I'm trying to help him out. Like I said, I have a 2000 Silverado extended cab. It's lived on gravel and suffered with road sand/salt/brine its entire life as well. Buddy has a 2001 extended cab LS 5.3 that lived in town, but was a hunting truck. He bought is with 50k from his father. My brother has a 2008 3/4 ton crew cab duramax that lives on gravel. Another buddy has a 2003 half ton crew cab HD with either the 5.3 or 6.0 that lives on gravel. My other brother had a 2005ish 3/4 ton avalanche that lived in town. All of these trucks have over 150k miles. Below are the most common issues for all of these trucks, and we were all Chevy guys growing up.

Rotor failure- factory OEM rotors were composite, not steel, and could not be turned down. The factory did not have the brakes calibrated correctly, and the rears wear out before the fronts. By the time you heard them griding, they were shot.
Brake lines- all 4 of these trucks have had brake line failures caused by pin holes that led to dump of brake fluid
Emergency brake- for trucks that spend a lot of time on gravel, the e-brakes are known to seize up and the linkages are known to snap as well
Spare tire linkage- all of these trucks spare tire pulleys froze up and had to be cut off to free the spare
Inner and outer door handles- plastic couplers fail on the inner door handles for the extended cab models "suicide" doors. Outer door handles often, not always, fail.
Tailgate handle- failed on all these trucks. Just drive around and see how many of this vintage GM tucks have the trim piece missing. That's likely because the handle failed and they had to take it apart.
Rust/corrosion- the 2000, 2001, and 2003 have zero rocker panels or cab corners left. The rear quarters are rusted out above the wheel wells.

On the bright side, the powertrains and electronics in these trucks ran very well, and none of us ever had to replace a motor, tranny, or transfer case. Hell, the AC in my 2000 is still ice cold!

My 2000 doesn't owe me a dime, and it did everything I ever asked it to do and more. However, it did nickle and dime me to death with the issues stated above, and for those reasons I wouldn't recommend a guy buying one used.

Every single problem you mention is classic of any vehicle that spends too much time with salt on it. (Brake parts corrode/rust, latches stick because they rust, body rusts, frame rusts)

For the OP, the summary is to make sure you wash your truck (no matter what year or brand) and if you buy used, make sure the previous owner carried out basic maintenance and then few or none of these things will happen.

 

[roadrunner]

Look at a Jasper remanufactured engine. They "fixed" a lot of the problems that Ford engineers put into the 5.4 Triton.

I recently got a quote on my F150 for $7,500 installed with a $500 core (engine block) exchange, so $7,000 at the end of the day.

 

[BRTreedogs]

It will take a solid work week but this dude is the authority in the f150. Watch away.

https://youtube.com/c/FordTechMakuloco

 

[Centralcoastca]

After getting a second opinion from another mechanic and confirming the first’s diagnosis, if the trucks still runs ok I’d run it to the dealership and see what you’d get for a trade in. They are paying stupid money for trucks and you’ll probably get way more than it was worth a year or two ago and it’d at least take a little sting out of the inflated prices of something new. I’ve seen far varying diagnoses of the same vehicle before and maybe the prognosis isn’t that bad. All the shops around here are crazy busy and some are throwing out big numbers on work they really don’t want right now because they can’t keep up with what they have, shopping around would be smart.