F150 Repair Advice...

I have a 2014 F150 3.5L 172K.

I recently had to chase several coil pack/plug failures (To be honest, it was my local shop that was chasing) Intermittent miss, but would not throw a code. They did diagnostics, but nothing. Every time I was under load (pulling camper uphill) I would get misses. Frustrating! (When is the "shoe" going to drop?). But shop was patient and so was I. Finally threw a code and they got me in to read. We after replacing coils & plugs/chasing misses that did not throw code we had 3 coils and plugs replaced.

Also had a burnt oil smell at start up. (Exhaust manifold. Nothing hitting the ground) Power brake booster AND valve cover gasket. ($1250 or so)

Shop never charged me diag until they found issue. I have my oil changed there and all of the above probably ran me around $3K over 4 shop repair visits. They have a top tech, but he is 2-3 years from retiring.

I love the truck and she is running smooth and strong. I have owned it since 2017 and 39K. I will run it into the ground.
 
It's an eco puke...consider yourself lucky you got 180k out of itand learn your lesson...get the 5.0 next time..

My transmission is being replaced in my 250 under warranty...in the last month I have had 2.7, 3.5, and 5.0 F150 loaner. All the same '25 model, stx, with less than 2k miles...the sticker have been in the glove box. Why anyone wouldn't pay the 3k difference for the 5.0 is beyond me...you will save that 3k in maintenance in no time.
 
Long story short... my 2016 F150 (3.5 Eccoboost) started eating spark plugs and coil packs a few months ago. Took it to a local garage, 3 large repair bills (totaling $6k) from him later. New plugs & coil packs twice, replace valve cover gasket & valve cover... each time telling me that he was finding oil in certain cylinders. This is the 4th trip back to this shop in a month, today he tells me that there's no compression on cylinder 3 and I need a new engine. I ask him what about the $6k I've dropped with him in the last 3-4 wks and he says "it sucks man". Picking this truck up in the morning... my question is, what would you do? Should I hold this guy accountable for milking me dry the last 3 wks and what would you do with this truck at this point? 180K miles Ford telling me a new engine is $10-12k. I'm at a loss.
Did he drop part of a broken plug in a cylinder and kill it?
Were you burning oil before this? did you have an engine misfire before? if yes, they didn't do a compression test?
Sounds to me like he shot a parts canon at your truck and really didn't spend any time diagnosing the problem correctly.
This guy milked you.
 
@StuckInTheEast that was one of the most straight forward honest assesments I’ve read in a long time. Thanks for the time. I had a 2016 f150 with 160k that was starting to turn into a regular money guzzler. If I had a decent shop I would have kept that truck for a long time. Had a great one but it shut down and the guy retired. Can’t say thank you enough to a good mechanic in this current throw a way world. I have a 21 f150 now with 45k. Do you mind giving a quick list of what you would consider must-do preventative maintenance other than oil changes and tire rotations?
also interested thx for posting I've got a 20 2.7 and only been doing regular 5k oil changes for now. especially wondering what to do to try to get the most out of the tranny mines ran fine but seen the issues on the internet
 
I have a 2014 F150 3.5L 172K.

I recently had to chase several coil pack/plug failures (To be honest, it was my local shop that was chasing) Intermittent miss, but would not throw a code. They did diagnostics, but nothing. Every time I was under load (pulling camper uphill) I would get misses. Frustrating! (When is the "shoe" going to drop?). But shop was patient and so was I. Finally threw a code and they got me in to read. We after replacing coils & plugs/chasing misses that did not throw code we had 3 coils and plugs replaced.

Also had a burnt oil smell at start up. (Exhaust manifold. Nothing hitting the ground) Power brake booster AND valve cover gasket. ($1250 or so)

Shop never charged me diag until they found issue. I have my oil changed there and all of the above probably ran me around $3K over 4 shop repair visits. They have a top tech, but he is 2-3 years from retiring.

I love the truck and she is running smooth and strong. I have owned it since 2017 and 39K. I will run it into the ground.
I'm getting a burnt oil smell at startup and just had the exhaust manifolds replaced a year ago.
Is that what was causing the burnt oil smell or the valve cover gaskets?
Take this to PM if you want so as to not derail the OP.
I got a code and intermittent miss under power and the code showed coil pack #6. $70 and 20 minutes of wrenching in my driveway and I'm good to go.
 
I'm getting a burnt oil smell at startup and just had the exhaust manifolds replaced a year ago.
Is that what was causing the burnt oil smell or the valve cover gaskets?
Take this to PM if you want so as to not derail the OP.
I got a code and intermittent miss under power and the code showed coil pack #6. $70 and 20 minutes of wrenching in my driveway and I'm good to go.
My 2016 was spitting a very small amount of oil from valve cover gaskets and had the oil smell. The repair was quoted pretty high so I didn’t see the value of having it done.
 
5.0 engines are not without thier issues, especially 2018 and newer, 2011- to mid 2017 were solid.
2015-mid2017 were peak for Ford half tons.
The 5.0s and 2.7 of that time period are very reliable outside of the inevitable oil pain leak of the 2.7
They still had the ultra-reliable 6 speed and now have the Aluminum body.
3.5 has always had timing chain issues among other things.
If you want a dead-reliable Ford, buy a 6.2 with the 6 speed and rest easy and just eat the few mpg lost.
 
5.0 engines are not without thier issues, especially 2018 and newer, 2011- to mid 2017 were solid.
2015-mid2017 were peak for Ford half tons.
The 5.0s and 2.7 of that time period are very reliable outside of the inevitable oil pain leak of the 2.7
They still had the ultra-reliable 6 speed and now have the Aluminum body.
3.5 has always had timing chain issues among other things.
If you want a dead-reliable Ford, buy a 6.2 with the 6 speed and rest easy and just eat the few mpg lost.
This is accurate...Biggest issue that ive seen with newer 5.0l being oil consumption.
6.2l is a tank, just a bit thirsty and needs plugs, coil boots and resistor pills every 50-60k or you'll be replacing coils.
The 2.7l has been solid overall but there have been some changes in recent years that I'm not all up on because we aren't seeing them yet out of warranty... Oil pan and water pump leaks were most common issue I've seen...a couple blown headgaskets from neglected coolant leaks...but thats not the engines fault.
10spd trans been dropping like flies. supposed to have been remedied in 2022+...seen ALOT of failures popping up on pre '22 10spds recently...I've not dug i to that much as most are under warranty still and the one we had that wasn't traded it back in.
Rebuild alot of f series rear diffs due to pinion or carrier bearing failures...nothing to be done there maint wise, it just happens.
With a 2.7l f150 id say just change your plugs every 50-60k, keep good oil in it every 5k,change trabs fluid every 50-60k, axle/tcase every 70-90k and roll until anything else pops up and don't neglect it when it does.
 
The 2.7 is generally known to be a reliable motor, time for a second opinion before you take the next step. I have over 185K trouble free miles on mine, frequent oil changes and good maintenance practices are key withe ecoboosts.
 
I'd probably try to trade it assuming it runs at all. I use a mechanic that warranties his work. I haven't used it yet, so maybe he doesn't really.

I don't think I'd use that mechanic again.
 
The problem you are up against is, if you replace the engine you are still goin to have other issues with the truck. I have a 04 Yukon which I prefer to put a few spend several hundreds if not a few thousand a year to take care of normal wear and tear vs buying a new one and having a high monthly payment which could be upwards of 8 K a year. If it can to replacing the engine for 12k, that is where I would draw the line. Of course the problem there is, with a bad engine, the truck has only scrap value. Have you looked into a short block, that could save some money vs brand new one.
 
A quick web search brings up a number of forum posts that are similar to yours with a lot of info. If it actually needs an engine, I think I would trade it on something else if I couldn’t find an engine for a reasonable cost.
 
Take it to another shop and see what they say, don't give them the history, when they give you their diagnosis then give them the history and see what they say.
 
Take it to another shop and see what they say, don't give them the history, when they give you their diagnosis then give them the history and see what they say.
Dont do this...ever.
One of the best ways to have diagnostics cost more and take more time is to withhold information that I then have to call and pry out of you when I find that repairs that were done elsewhere and need to know the history of whos hands were where and what's the original issue was before someone else dicked it up and created more problems.
A good way to piss off technicians and shop owners. We don't go to work to play stupid games of "guess what the other guy tried that didnt fix it without me telling you" I've fired customers for this type of nonsense.
That whole honesty thing is a two way street...people try to setup and pull shit over on repair facilties too...happens more than you'd think.
If you take it somewhere else be upfront about the history and what's going on, it'll make everyone's experience more pleasant.
 
I didn't read everything after the OP. But I have always made my own repairs till I had to rely on other choices as I got to old to do everything myself with my injuries from a 42' head first fall some 33 years ago. But stay on top of all my repairs with my mechanic, and not a large shop. My mechanic works out of his own shop on the property he lives on.

One thing I would do, is make sure the main electronics are working and computing correctly. Then most of what you said is good to go if you would buy a brand new short block. you still need the majority of the parts you already invested in to assure a brand new complete engine. This is if your 2016 truck is in as good a condition as my 2006 Z71 with the same miles on it, or close at 168,000 on mine.

Mine is paid for, I would just buy a complete long block since I've done none of the top end replacements you have, and at 10K dollars I would have a reliable power plant, meaning the only other big ticket item is the tranny! This is as long as you have maintained it as I have, all difs transfer case, and fluids changed at 100,00 miles besides the oil and filters once a year, I use the premium amzoil in mine. so my last three have went over 250 before I sold them with originol motor and using no more than one quart in the 12k miles average between oil changes, never adding as I change it before it down a quart.

But if yours has been taken care of my suggestion would be choosing a 10K inverstment for another 8 years of use. Most likely trouble free. Or do as I did 2 years ago and price a new truck, stripped down, over 42,000 dollars. My Z71 has every option and loooooadddded, with HD payload and trailering package. so for me to get the same thing I have now, I would be looking at over 70K dollars. you decide, I hope your option is the same as mine, and if you take normal maintenance as serious as I do,,,,,, you make the call, I'm happy with this,,,
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Not new but I would drop 10K to keep driving it over spending 70K to have newer with little more to offer. But this has the L33 5.3 engine, and why I bought it when I did with low miles. That engine uses no VV timing, no fuel management, and has a higher torque cam, LS corvette cathedral port heads and 10:1 compression, witj h all aluminum block new at the time the only 5.3 with floating wrist pins and upgraded forged rods, with thicker cylinder walls than any other 5.3 block. It was also only ever available in the 4wd extended cab PU both Chevy and GMC, and no other model for only 2 years. This was why I bought it. NO, this is not a hot rod, but will run for over 300K miles trouble free and not use oil, with more power to haul than the other small blocks at the time, and still give better gas mileage, it averages over 17.3 mpg every 10 to 12K miles between oil changes and will give me over 20 mpg highway kept under 65 mph on trips. Even though it is not a race car, it will quite nicely get out of its own way!!

If you know what you got, and after 180K miles were happy with it, and think it was the truck you wanted, put a new heart in it and enjoy! I would with mine! Even if you had to buy a new tranny later, now everything is reliable again and only a fraction of what that new option is, you'll pay what the trany and engine costs for the next 5 years to break even, by then you'll be back where you are now with the new one? like was said, only can decide!
 
Definitely a second opinion. My 2012 f150 with the EB needed a timing chain at 100k mi. Ford dealer quoted over 6k. A local fleet mechanic did the work for less than 2500$. Drove the truck for another 20k miles before upgrading to a new f250 7.3 gasser
 
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