to build or not to build

blake_mhoona

Lil-Rokslider
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Sep 21, 2016
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Arkansas
I have a savage model 11 trophy hunter in .308. 4.4” action. Detachable magazine. Bolt release on the trigger. Plastic bottoms. It’s approximately a 2014 I think. I have a suppressor in jail and I’ve got awhile before it gets out. The suppressor is mostly for fun with my .300 Blackout but I would also like to use it during hunting.

After taking my gun to the dealer he had concerns about being able to thread it (5/8x24) because it is a sporter barrel. my current use for this rifle is deer hunting in the east. where most all of my shots would be under 200 yards. but if i were to go forward with either of the below options i think i could get into more long distance shooting.

My question is this: if I went forward with buying a barrel in the Varmint barrel contour. I would then have for all intents and purposes a model 10?

My stock won’t support a varmit barrel contour obviously. so if my above question is correct about basically having a model 10 Then i could search for stocks that fit a model 10 (magazine/bolt release criteria taken into account etc) correct? After doing research I’ve also found that I would also need to purchase a metal bottom for most stocks.

I think after a few days worth of reading on the subject basically what I want to know is if I buy a criterion barrel (probably 18” since I’ll have a 7” suppressor), a bell and Carlson m40 Varmint stock AND the metal bottom parts from savage I should be good to go?

And is it worth it? Or do I just cut my losses and move on to a different gun/model? I think the way I figure it i’m probably looking at about $750 or so in mods. I looked today at the savage model 10pt-sr ($549) and 10fcp-sr ($599) at academy. Both were threaded and heavy barrels. Would sinking $750 into my current setup turnout a better product than either of the off the shelf guns I looked at?

The only downside I saw on the savages I looked at were that one had the same flimsy stock on the fore end same as my current setup. The other weighed 9.5lbs (the other was 8.5). i think with the reduced barrel length of a potential build i could get under that weight.

i guess there is a third option of just leave what i have alone and keep it and not use the suppressor on it. but i feel like if i've spent all the money and time waiting on a suppressor i want to be able to use it on all my current weapons as well as any future guns i may purchase.
 
Are you planning on shortening the 308 barrel and then threading it 5/8x24? That may gain you some muzzle diameter and you might be able to get away with 5/8x24. There are also adapters that can be purchased or made that can get your suppressor to work.
I wouldn’t buy a barrel,stock and bottom metal just because of one gunsmiths opinion. Checkout a few more and your options.
 
I believe the outside diameter of the barrel has to be .75” to thread to that pitch. And you have to go less than 16” (SBR) for my rifle to be that.

There was also concern of having 16oz and 7” hanging off the end of a thin barrel and how that will affect bullet travel through the barrel.
 
I wouldn't trust the concentricity of any factory threaded barrel. If you buy another rifle, I would send it to a reputable gunsmith to have the barrel cut and threaded properly . Cheap insurance for suppressor use .
 
I believe the outside diameter of the barrel has to be .75” to thread to that pitch. And you have to go less than 16” (SBR) for my rifle to be that.

There was also concern of having 16oz and 7” hanging off the end of a thin barrel and how that will affect bullet travel through the barrel.

I have a barrel that i believe is .70 and another that is .71 that are both threaded to 5/8x24. Not sure if that gets you over the 16”.
 
i'll measure when i get home. but according to that link minimum for 5/8x24 is .725. which i'm thinking is going to be right at 16" maybe a little shorter on mine.
 
At 16” barrel length my guns outside diameter is 0.712”. So I don’t think threading my current setup is feasible.

This would also leave my barrel approximately 3” past the forend of my stock not that it matters too much.
 
I think Adco firearms can weld a tapered threaded adapter on for you. I’m facing the same issue on m70 featherweight. I’ve never used them but have seen them highly recommended on other forums. Supposedly they are well versed on keeping threads concentric for suppressors. I would think you would have to ceracote or something after they weld but they may do that too. It’s at least an option to explore. If I decide to have mine done I’ll report back.
 
it looks like the adco threaded adapter is only for adding a shoulder to the threads. it mentions after the barrel is threaded they can weld a tapered shoulder not that they can weld a thread on. as my barrel is not wide enough to thread this wouldnt be an option for me

i may be wrong misreading the item though...


does anyone have an answer to the "is it worth it part of the question?" if i did go forward with the mods i discussed would it produce a better rifle than the off shelf suppressor ready models?
 
I basically did what you are looking at, savage 10 action, light varmint criterion barrel in 6.5 creed, B&C m40 stock, and CDI AICS bottom metal. It shoots a consistent sub half minute, but I wish I used a nicer action from the get go. It’ll likely be posted in the classifieds this weekend.
 
It could turn out better or worse no telling till it's done. Most likely it will be better.
They could pin/weld you muzzle device if you ordered qd mount and it's long enough to get you back past 18"
Or file a tax stamp for sbr.
Or I'd probably get rid of it and get something in 6.5
Or super sonic 300 blackout should drop a deer at 200.
 
It could turn out better or worse no telling till it's done. Most likely it will be better.
They could pin/weld you muzzle device if you ordered qd mount and it's long enough to get you back past 18"
Or file a tax stamp for sbr.
Or I'd probably get rid of it and get something in 6.5
Or super sonic 300 blackout should drop a deer at 200.

I didn’t think about pin welding the qd mount. I could probably get away with doing a 14” barrel and pin welding the muzzle brake. Hmm something to think about.

I’ve got the .300 blackout already. Actually contemplating doing the sbr tax stamp on it.

I’d like to keep a .308 around in case I go out west again when my points build up. But 6.5 does intrigue me. And if stay in the savage family I could always just get a different barrel chambered in any of the short action calibers
 
They pin qd mounts for ar's all the time.
When I did my sbr it was actually cheaper and quicker to just buy a stripped lower that was manufactured as an sbr. Vs surrendering yours to be engraved.
There was another 308 vs 6.5 thread I typed a lengthy reply.
But if you compare energy at extended distance a 6.5 out does a 308.
Because the bullet flushes more efficiently so if they leave the muzzle the same it will have more when it gets there.
 
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