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Heck yeah! And don’t be afraid to give that allen bolt full gusto.
Heck yeah! And don’t be afraid to give that allen bolt full gusto.
Should be good.Paint pen on the threads, torque to 65 in-lbs (that's where my wrench maxes out), then give it another 1/8 turn, then paint the head with nail polish.
How's that sound?
Precisely my procedure.For that main trigger assembly screw I normally paint pen the threads and then use needle nose pliers wrapped in a rag to hold the mag catch tab in place (it tends to clock when tightening the screw). I then tighten it until the long end of the 90 degree allen wrench bends. Tight tight.
I buy them as a kit that comes with the screw as well. Let me dig.Where can you buy factory trigger springs? I have 2 used actions that I have purchased that have either aftermarket trigger springs or just super light triggers. I've been happy with factory triggers and weights. Never felt like messing with any of the 7 factory guns I bought.
Jay
Google this part number…Where can you buy factory trigger springs? I have 2 used actions that I have purchased that have either aftermarket trigger springs or just super light triggers. I've been happy with factory triggers and weights. Never felt like messing with any of the 7 factory guns I bought.
Jay
Was this for sure the factory spring? I didn’t trust that one but it’s been months since I looked.This is what I ordered: https://jaoutdoors.com/product/tikka-trigger-spring/
It did say OEM Tikka. I'll check it against one I know is from the factory when I get it.Was this for sure the factory spring? I didn’t trust that one but it’s been months since I looked.
Was this one of the McCarbo springs from FL?Posting this so more people might see it and consider leaving the factory spring alone.
I just got back from the S2H Winter course where I shot a Tikka RSS 223. I like a light trigger so I chose to try replacing the factory trigger spring with a lighter trigger spring.
On day 6 I had a accidental discharge when I closed the bolt. Fortunately it was rnd 3 on target during an exercise. Running the bolt hard and fast I believe exaggerates the failure earlier than if it is run less aggressively.
Form confirmed failure by running the bolt 15-20 times and had another failure, rifle unloaded of course.
After experiencing this, I think it is simply spring fatigue. The lighter spring is a noticeably smaller guage wire.
After replacing my spring, everything was assembled with paint pen, no the trigger body wasnt loose.
Then I shot probably 400 rnds trying different bullets, zeroing the scope and testing a couple other things before the Winter course. During the course I shot around 900 rnds and plenty of dry fires.
Up to point of failure, probably 2000+ cycles. after failure, maybe 150 more.
Upon install, I set it at 2lb. After failure I tightened the screw one full turn to finish the last day, as of now, it is again at 2lb!
All springs have a duty life or number of cycles they are good for. If these springs are only "safe" for 1000 cycles (if at all) I'm out. I don't want to have to wonder if the next time I close the bolt it will go off or tear the rifle apart every x number of rounds and replace the spring again.
FWIW, I definitely agree with Form that replacing the factory spring is unnecessary and very likely dangerous. He has seen several others do the same thing.
This is pretty crazy, and to be honest it makes me a little nervous. The lightened trigger spring is something that is part of the UM built rifles with a Tikka action. I received my UM built rifle recently and I love it, but this thread has me thinking that I need to change the spring out for a factory spring.It 100% is an issue with lightened springs. The trigger issue in this last class makes it 100% of the replaced springs having issues that I know of and have seen with heavy use.
Do not screw with the trigger. Sako/Tikka isn’t American- they demand good triggers that work. They design them to work a certain way. A 2.25 to 2.5lb trigger is already on the too light side for all-around field use.