Tikka trigger spring fail

Only one end of that pin (the correct end) can be inserted into the spring. The other end is too fat. Isn't that what keeps people from installing it backwards... the fact that you can't?

Tikka may have fixed the post making it “fatter” to prevent it being installed backwards. I know it’s easy to do, or at least it used to be, with a light trigger spring.
 
For that main trigger assembly screw I normally paint pen the threads and then use needle nose pliers wrapped in a rag to hold the mag catch tab in place (it tends to clock when tightening the screw). I then tighten it until the long end of the 90 degree allen wrench bends. Tight tight.
Does the type/brand of paint pen matter?
 
from UM. don't know maker.
I purchased a Tikka trigger sprint from UM about a year ago. I found it to be way too light at all adjustment levels, and immediately removed it.

I know a lot of instructors that would eject you from the course for that kind of failure, no matter the cause.
 
I wonder what it is about the factory spring that makes it so much more reliable then. Not sure if it's the type of metal used, the coating, the spring tension of the heavier weight, or what.
 
I wonder what it is about the factory spring that makes it so much more reliable then. Not sure if it's the type of metal used, the coating, the spring tension of the heavier weight, or what.
Most after market springs are just repurposed pieces of shit springs from a click pen or something marked up about 8000 percent
 
There appears to be some variability in the minimum pull weights guys get with their factory springs. Is there a place I can buy factory springs from? Mine goes down to 2.6# right now and I'd love it if I could find a factory spring that allows pull weight down to like 2# - 2.25#

Edit: Either that or I may try filing down the trigger screw a little bit so the tensioner on the trigger spring can back out a bit further. I've seen that mentioned as a possible solution as well.
 
throwing a wrench in the mix here. Wouldn't it be the trigger adjustment screw (black one with blue on it) being too far out causing the accidental discharge not the spring itself. Isn't this what sets the trigger pull weight, not the spring itself?

I was messing around with this last night. I had the trigger adjustment screw backed waaaaay out. Every time i'd close the bolt it would fire. Needless to say I adjusted accordingly.


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throwing a wrench in the mix here. Wouldn't it be the trigger adjustment screw (black one with blue on it) being too far out causing the accidental discharge not the spring itself. Isn't this what sets the trigger pull weight, not the spring itself?

I was messing around with this last night. I had the trigger adjustment screw backed waaaaay out. Every time i'd close the bolt it would fire. Needless to say I adjusted accordingly.


View attachment 850112

Could possibly be either? Must be some base level of spring compression force needed to keep things safe?
 
Could possibly be either? Must be some base level of spring compression force needed to keep things safe?
Not sure, all I know is being backed waaay out is not safe. But then when I would back it back in the issue would not happen.

Obviously all this was dry firing in a garage, maybe the recoil from firing would cause the trigger adjustment screw to loosen (back out) which caused the OP issue? I am not a gun smith maybe someone who knows more can weigh in
 
throwing a wrench in the mix here. Wouldn't it be the trigger adjustment screw (black one with blue on it) being too far out causing the accidental discharge not the spring itself. Isn't this what sets the trigger pull weight, not the spring itself?

I was messing around with this last night. I had the trigger adjustment screw backed waaaaay out. Every time i'd close the bolt it would fire. Needless to say I adjusted accordingly.


View attachment 850112

No. With the factory spring, that screw is designed to be able to be backed out until it contacts the trigger housing screw- that is minimum safe weight: approx 2.25-2.75lbs.

The problem is 100% changing that spring.
 
No. With the factory spring, that screw is designed to be able to be backed out until it contacts the trigger housing screw- that is minimum safe weight: approx 2.25-2.75lbs.

The problem is 100% changing that spring.
not arguing here just curious. couldn't you throw an aftermarket screw in that is much more flexible and provides a better break when pulling trigger (my understanding of why one would buy this in the first place). Then just back it out to the trigger housing screw like you would with a factory and have a better trigger but still safe?

Trying to decide what I want to do on mine
 
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