Tikka T3X Superlite Muzzle Break and Suppressors

[Corhunter]

Hey y’all I’ve scoured the forums on this topic. I think most people are getting hung up on this question “should you thread the factory barrel because it is so narrow”? I want to avoid beating this horse dead. People are going to thread it damn it!

Please share all the muzzle breaks and cans that will or have worked for the Superlite factory barrel

I’m interested in what barrel length you chose? What thread you chose?

What brakes? Any brakes that can later be threaded with a suppressor? And what suppressors?

For reference. I own a brand new 300 WM Superlite


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[Firestone]

1/2×28 threads. Use any break you want, some people claim you shouldn't use a suppressor on a 30cal with 1/2×28 threads, but I have never heard of a first hand account of a failure. Why would suppressor companys even make a 30 cal option in 1/2×28 threads if they honestly believes there was a problem?

 

[PNWGATOR]

Your rifle is a fantastic donor.

Highly recommend pulling the barrel and morphing it into a 6UM.

You have a great action to build a wonderful rifle. Ace 20” 1:7.5 6UM in a RokStok.

That said, the 22UM would be lights out if legal in your area.

Chop and thread and add a can. Easy day.

 

[Corhunter]

Your rifle is a fantastic donor.

Highly recommend pulling the barrel and morphing it into a 6UM.

You have a great action to build a wonderful rifle. Ace 20” 1:7.5 6UM in a RokStok.

That said, the 22UM would be lights out if legal in your area.

Chop and thread and add a can. Easy day.

I appreciate your post. This seems outside of my wheelhouse doing a recaliber. I am trying to keep it as stock as possible

 

[270quest]

Hey y’all I’ve scoured the forums on this topic. I think most people are getting hung up on this question “should you thread the factory barrel because it is so narrow”? I want to avoid beating this horse dead. People are going to thread it damn it!

Please share all the muzzle breaks and cans that will or have worked for the Superlite factory barrel

I’m interested in what barrel length you chose? What thread you chose?

What brakes? Any brakes that can later be threaded with a suppressor? And what suppressors?

For reference. I own a brand new 300 WM Superlite


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I am having Kampfelds rechamber a 8 twist 22-250 T3x ss lite to a 22 creedmoor and chopping the barrel at 18" for a can. I will be running a Harvester EVO.

 

[Corhunter]

Has anyone used The Answer muzzle break on a 300 or the T3x?


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[thinhorn_AK]

18”, thread to 5/8x24 for direct threading a silencer.

 

[Titan]

Has anybody cut back past the factory fluting? Or should I stop just before?

This is a 7mm mag. I would like to drop it to 18”…I don’t really want to swap barrels on this gun.

 

[tnbillyearl]

I have T3x superlite (7mmRM w/ 24" bbl) and had a 5/8x24 Vias break put on. It didn't change the POI more than an inch and did nothing to the speed, and the gun continued to shoot 160g+ projectiles so, so good. Heck, it shot everything great and developed a reputation of its own at my local gun club. It particularly loved Alliant powders and 7828ssc. Fast forward a year I had the bbl cut down to 21" and the Vias put back on. Everything changed. Now it only likes 140g projectiles and medium burning powders, particularly H4350. I'm not happy about it, but whatever. [I have wondered if the length alteration changed the harmonics as they interact with the twist rate? Who knows? A 140g Accubond over 3250 is good for all my problems; but I did go from a freaky accurate gun back to a run of the mill Tikka.]

And for Titan, I have seen only one Tikka bbl cut back to the fluting - it looked odd. My gut said to me not to trust it. I asked the gunsmith about it for mine and he was "No, never."

B

 

[Corhunter]

I have T3x superlite (7mmRM w/ 24" bbl) and had a 5/8x24 Vias break put on. It didn't change the POI more than an inch and did nothing to the speed, and the gun continued to shoot 160g+ projectiles so, so good. Heck, it shot everything great and developed a reputation of its own at my local gun club. It particularly loved Alliant powders and 7828ssc. Fast forward a year I had the bbl cut down to 21" and the Vias put back on. Everything changed. Now it only likes 140g projectiles and medium burning powders, particularly H4350. I'm not happy about it, but whatever. [I have wondered if the length alteration changed the harmonics as they interact with the twist rate? Who knows? A 140g Accubond over 3250 is good for all my problems; but I did go from a freaky accurate gun back to a run of the mill Tikka.]

And for Titan, I have seen only one Tikka bbl cut back to the fluting - it looked odd. My gut said to me not to trust it. I asked the gunsmith about it for mine and he was "No, never."

B

This is the stuff I’ve been looking for… I would hate to cut back the barrel and regret it


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[Corhunter]

Has anybody cut back past the factory fluting? Or should I stop just before?

This is a 7mm mag. I would like to drop it to 18”…I don’t really want to swap barrels on this gun.

I’m with you! Reason I made this post is trying to understand how to keep it stock as much as possible


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[Titan]

I have T3x superlite (7mmRM w/ 24" bbl) and had a 5/8x24 Vias break put on. It didn't change the POI more than an inch and did nothing to the speed, and the gun continued to shoot 160g+ projectiles so, so good. Heck, it shot everything great and developed a reputation of its own at my local gun club. It particularly loved Alliant powders and 7828ssc. Fast forward a year I had the bbl cut down to 21" and the Vias put back on. Everything changed. Now it only likes 140g projectiles and medium burning powders, particularly H4350. I'm not happy about it, but whatever. [I have wondered if the length alteration changed the harmonics as they interact with the twist rate? Who knows? A 140g Accubond over 3250 is good for all my problems; but I did go from a freaky accurate gun back to a run of the mill Tikka.]

And for Titan, I have seen only one Tikka bbl cut back to the fluting - it looked odd. My gut said to me not to trust it. I asked the gunsmith about it for mine and he was "No, never."

B

Did you try without the brake? Or with a suppressor?

Thanks for the info on the fluting. I honestly don’t care about the looks, just don’t want any more length than I have to.

 

[tnbillyearl]

Here's a pic. I never shot it at this length without the break, and I have never shot a suppressor on it Please note this is only an example of 1. I have friends who have had their rifle stay accurate when cutting the bbl back. Mine is still accurate, but not like it was. (I also think I was very lucky to have had a gun that shot everything lights out.)

B

 

[tnbillyearl]

UPDATE: This thread got me out of sorts this week. So I went back to shooting my 160's, but lessened my powder ~5 grains. Each group was sub MOA and my gun acted more like its old self; but almost 150 feet/sec slower than when I had a 24" bbl. The first pic below was at 100 yesterday. The second pic was today at 200. Exact same load with a 160g Accubond. I'm good with this. I'm going to take away that when you cut a bbl down, back your powder off to keep accuracy in the ball park of what you had.

 

[Titan]

Thanks for the update. This was the first thread that got me a little worried about cutting back.

 

[Orchemo]

I have recently cut back 2 rifles for suppressor use
1. Tikka 7mm-08 to 17 inches. Loss some velocity, but still very accurate. Handles great with the suppressor
2. Nosler 280AI to 20 inches. Loss a little velocity, but still shooting 150s at over 3K.

When I was developing a load for the 280AI, I found the magical node while increasing powder charges. ES = 6 fps

The tikka ES = 18 fps

Tweak your powder loads mid to upper recommended and you will find you velocity sweat spot, which will be accuracy sweat spot.

 

[swavescatter]

I had my gunsmith chop/thread my Tikka T3X Superlite in 300WM. Used a Silencer Central Banish 30 Gold 1/2x28 adapter. Gunsmith reported he does this all the time for magnum 30 cals. It's a non-issue.